 | Home > Technical > Disco Transfer Box into TD5 90 |
 
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| YorkieV8 Member Since: 13 Mar 2013 Location: North Yorks Posts: 6   
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PS apologies if this has been covered before. Did a quick search, but couldn't find all answers. '02 90 TD5
SIIa Lightweight V8 |
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2nd Jul 2014 1:18pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16892 
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Disco2 box is (as far as i know) identical on V8 and TD5.
All Dicso2 transfer boxes have a diff. Some have a mechanical difflock but most don't. A viscous coupling has never been used on Disco2. Quite a few Disco2 transfer boxes have the internal components for the diff lock but had no linkage fitted. These are recognisable by the threaded spindle sticking up vertically from the front output housing. The majority of Disco2 transfer boxes however had no internals fitted for the difflock. These are recognisable by the unmachined boss on the front output housing where the spindle mentioned above would be if the internals were fitted. Buying second hand you will pay more for one of the fully-fitted boxes since they are in demand for Defender conversions and for Disco2 difflock conversions, and they are scarce to begin with.* There is however no reason at all why you shouldn't retrofit the difflock from your old transfer box to a difflock-less Disco2 box. It is an easy job and you will have all the parts you need available from the old box. The parts you need to swap are not going to be the parts causing the slop in your old box. Alternatively you can swap the relevant gears from the Disco2 case into the Defender case, but if your old box is worn you probably don't want to do this. Defender TDCis (Pumas) have the same ratio are the Disco2 so if you can find a transfer box from a Puma it will have the difflock and be the correct ratio. * They're not however as scarce as genuine Disco2 difflock selector lever mechanisms! These may rocking horse poo look commonplace. If anyone has one for sale, please PM me, I have been looking for a genuine difflock transfer lever assembly for about a decade! |
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2nd Jul 2014 1:41pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769  
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Just to add a bit of confusion
 I thought I was going to need to change my transfer box (which I probably will do at some point) but in the mean time I checked my drive flanges and rear half shafts and found there was loads of slack!!! I changed all four drive flanges and the rear half shafts at the weekend which cost me about £80 and the difference is amazing. There's hardly any take up clatter and no big clunk when you press the clutch to slow down. I tried to upload a video to photobucket of how bad they were but it's not playing today but it's well worth checking for the money and time saving on the transfer box alone.
Ray |
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2nd Jul 2014 4:02pm |
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| YorkieV8 Member Since: 13 Mar 2013 Location: North Yorks Posts: 6
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Many thanks for the quick and detailed replies chaps. Interesting stuff.
I'll look out for a good disco 2 box now then. Nice to know that the manual linkage is transferable. I thought it might have been the prop uv joints causing the slack, but turning them by hand reveals that the transfer box output shafts turn with the props, particularly the front. I understand there can be numerous parts of the drivetrain causing this, just hoping that it is the transfer box so that I can kill 2 birds with 1 stone. '02 90 TD5 SIIa Lightweight V8 |
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2nd Jul 2014 8:51pm |
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| barbel jim Member Since: 12 Dec 2012 Location: Northants Posts: 1411 
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A disco 1 box is just as good, V8 or TDi, but lacks the electricery for throttle response when in low range. This again though can be swapped with the one on the original box, or will run just as well without. I'm pretty sure all come with the mechanical diff lock
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2nd Jul 2014 10:37pm |
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| Lambley Member Since: 20 Apr 2013 Location: Mid Devon Posts: 1435 
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I changed mine a while back, we'll worth it, makes for a much nicer drive, mine was from a low mileage Td5 disco, everything went ok. I did have to swap the speedo sensor and handbrake drums etc as it was a different size to mine, there appears to be no other difference to the one I have.
I thought everything was there on the disco's box but it lacked a switch which illuminated a light on the dash?? Somebody will be along soon to tell me otherwise no doubt. Why don't you get your internals changed, then you know everything will just be as before. I also have an old pickup that has just had a recon gearbox and transfer box, the place I dealt with was Kelly 4x4, very nice bloke to deal with. It's not far for you either as they're in Halifax. Just a thought. |
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2nd Jul 2014 10:53pm |
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| YorkieV8 Member Since: 13 Mar 2013 Location: North Yorks Posts: 6
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Thanks Barbel and Lambley.
After reading various threads on here about the same problem of clunking/play when taking up drive, my fears now are that the problem could be my front diff. I think my next step will be to remove the front prop and go for a short drive in attempt to eliminate the rear. Vice-versa if necessary. On a possible plus side, if it is a diff problem and the transfer box is ok, I will then replace the diff and just change the internals of my transfer box. Is there any way of quickly distinguishing which is causing the slack - transfer box or diffs (maybe even drive flanges/props?) without going to too much trouble and time of stripping anything down? On a separate note, maybe related - not sure; I recently pulled out of a junction on a blind bend and had to really give it some beans when a fast approaching heavy vehicle came hurtling round said bend. I was turning right out of the junction and the whole car rocked over slightly from torque and the right side front wheel lost grip. I found this a little strange as it was dry and I have decent AT tyres. The TD5 isn't quite standard (big intercooler and PSI box so no road burner), but should this be possible, or does it point to the front diff being fubarred? PS the clunking/free-play was apparent before this. '02 90 TD5 SIIa Lightweight V8 |
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3rd Jul 2014 9:36am |
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| Lambley Member Since: 20 Apr 2013 Location: Mid Devon Posts: 1435
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I've just had my diffs adjusted, apparently there is a certain amount of adjustment, I've not driven mine yet but the problem was 1/3 front diff, 1/3 rear diff, 1/3 transfer box, so with a recon transfer box and adjusted diffs it should drive without a clunk when changing gears etc.
Well that's the theory anyway. |
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3rd Jul 2014 9:50am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16892
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Check also for wear on the outboard ends of the halfshafts and the drive flanges. These are famous for wear and consequent clunking.
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3rd Jul 2014 10:06am |
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