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dondiddy

Member Since: 13 Nov 2012
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 224

Looks like a couple of power sockets for plugging in the likes of a satnav on the bigger one and possibly a handlamp or spotlight on a wander lead on the smaller one. Anything you would normally plug into a lighter socket would work in the large one but the smaller one would be a more specific plug that might be a bit harder to source. Whether you use them or not (depending of course that they work!) will depend I suppose on whether you have a lot of plug in goodies that you intend to use!

18th Jan 2014 11:57pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5981

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

The easiest way around isolator and powering alarm and radio is to join the two connections of the isolator with a piece of wire with an inline fuse in it. The fuse will allow power through so all items keep their memory, but if someone tries to start the engine fuse will blow, killing the power.

Andy

18th Jan 2014 11:59pm

danridge

Member Since: 28 May 2013
Location: Bath
Posts: 438

Cheers Andy - what would I search for online for that?

19th Jan 2014 12:09am

danridge

Member Since: 28 May 2013
Location: Bath
Posts: 438

and AMP fuse would do the job? 10A?

19th Jan 2014 12:11am

dondiddy

Member Since: 13 Nov 2012
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 224

Something along the lines of this would do. Ebay item no eBay Item No. 400591678378 or do a search for inline fuse holder. You would also need 2 ring terminals to suit the posts on the isolator. 10 amp fuse would be fine as it is only providing a supply to the clock. You would have to make sure that you did not leave the likes of the headlights on when switching the isolator off as a high current draw like that would blow the fuse. Also you would need to remember to switch the isolator on before switching on the ignition as the high draw from the glow plugs would be enough to blow the fuse.

19th Jan 2014 12:46am

danridge

Member Since: 28 May 2013
Location: Bath
Posts: 438

Thank you !

19th Jan 2014 12:51am

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5981

Any size blade fuse would be ok, as none of them would allow enough power to start engine. For the first few weeks of this system carry a few spares until you get used to it

With it wired like this you can isolate battery and still use a tracker hidden somewhere, as will still have power.

Andy

19th Jan 2014 6:00am

danridge

Member Since: 28 May 2013
Location: Bath
Posts: 438

Thanks Andy
Is there a big enough fuse that would handle the lights being on but blow if engine start was attempted ?

19th Jan 2014 9:58am

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5981

I think a 30 amp fuse may be able to handle it, it's possibly a bit trial and error. Just make sure cable is suitable.

Andy

19th Jan 2014 11:13am

dondiddy

Member Since: 13 Nov 2012
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 224

Dan, remember its not really a big deal if the fuse blows! You will only lose power to the clock/radio so it simply means that you put in a new fuse and reset those items then your good to go! When you turn on the isolator then clock/radio and all other electrics will still work, its only the back up power to clock/radio that is lost when the fuse blows.

19th Jan 2014 11:21am

Lou Sparts

Member Since: 15 Apr 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 1501

2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver

From my basic knowledge of electrickery watts divided by volts equals amps, so 2x headlights at 60 watts each is 120 watts divide by 12 volts will give a current draw of 10 amps.

Of course there will be other things drawing current as well as the lights,30 amp fuse should be plenty. 2005 Td5 90 XS

Steve

19th Jan 2014 11:25am

danridge

Member Since: 28 May 2013
Location: Bath
Posts: 438

Thanks guys

So a 30A fuse will keep the clock running, deal with lights coming on by accident when isolated is on but will pop if ignition is turned without disabling isolator ?
If so then that's what ill go with

19th Jan 2014 1:00pm

Lou Sparts

Member Since: 15 Apr 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 1501

A 30 amp fuse should be OK if "ignition" is turned on (depending on current draw of fuel pump) but will pop for sure if you try to start the engine. 2005 Td5 90 XS

Steve

19th Jan 2014 4:20pm

danridge

Member Since: 28 May 2013
Location: Bath
Posts: 438

Thanks

How do I tell if the in-line fuse cable up to the job? I've got one here but doesn't have any obvious rating on it. Just suck it and see or it a fire hazard?

19th Jan 2014 7:18pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5981

That's perfect then

19th Jan 2014 7:18pm

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