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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19615  
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Up the A pillar is fine providing you power and earth wires aren't massive gauge.
Other than that towards the rear is fine and even easier to hide if you have trim. (I don't) but it's still easy enough. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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11th Jan 2014 7:23pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5745 
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I would consider going up the trim by the doors(the bits where the top seatbelt mount is) and then into the roof area. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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11th Jan 2014 7:25pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5424 
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I think is what the op is suggesting as he states the "up the B pillar"
And that's what I would do, much more room than the A post, and nearer the batter box. Andy |
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11th Jan 2014 7:49pm |
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| Waldo Member Since: 18 Jul 2010 Location: Bit South of Manchester Posts: 240
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Up the B pillar works very well
I ran a wire around that area for a cut of switch (i'm not telling you where  )
It's very easy and plenty of room to run all manner of cables. Will Defender 90 XS TD5 (03 Reg) |
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11th Jan 2014 7:54pm |
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| ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328
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Use decent thin wall
All my carling switches work most are on signal trigger to relays to bat box single ilum feed and decent earth Pic of wires in my Xtec build  Click image to enlarge Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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11th Jan 2014 8:13pm |
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| DC101 Member Since: 01 Jul 2012 Location: Pudsey, West Yorkshire Posts: 249 
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Great. Thanks for the answers. I have some trim on the pillar between the doors. Does this just clip off, or indeed can I leave it on and feed up behind it? Also is it 'just' a case of removing the fir tree clips to drop the headlining (I bought a trim tool off eBay) . I also need to feed the antenna cable for the CB under the roof. I'm figuring on the aerial mounting bracket above the rear near side door ( gutter mount) and cutting a slot in the door seal to feed it through?? Is that a good idea or asking for trouble?
Cheers Robin |
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11th Jan 2014 9:29pm |
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| william8 Member Since: 03 Apr 2013 Location: Motherwell Posts: 259  
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I too just bought similar, the bolt on bits roof pod.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390722899311?ssP...1439.l2648 I already have several wired going up both sides of the window and have found they look untidy when theres too much in them. So my multicore will be going down one side and rerouting everything to the other to try and get them equal. However if it is only switching wires you are using (using relays) then there is an earth and a 12v supply up there already at the light. My plan was to take up: ignition feed illumination feed and only bring down my 3/5 signal wires from my carlings to under the drivers seat. Im also going to try and figure out how to get a scanguage up there too. William |
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11th Jan 2014 11:34pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
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Instead of cutting into the rubber door seal peel it of the rib that it grips to round the door frame, cut a slot out of the metal rib so that the cb coax or the like passes behind the door seal with less chance of rubbing and when removed is virtually impossible to notice.
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12th Jan 2014 12:19am |
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