 | Home > Td5 > TD5 fuel/running problem |
 
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| Paulv8 Member Since: 09 Jun 2013 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 618  
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The oil level isn't up is it? V8 90...WIP
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28th Nov 2013 9:55pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
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Just been having a hunt around t'internet and it seems that the non return valve was discontinued the following off a post on another forum from a couple of years ago make a lot of sense;
I think I may have cleared up the confusion regarding the air bleed valve. I've had a chat with my local LR mechanic and he tells me that some of the very early TD5 engined LRs were fitted with a combined air bleed and one way valve in the fuel filter housing which was basically to prevent the high pressure fuel lines from emptying overnight. However this was discontinued very quickly as they often broke up and sent bits of rubber through the fuel pump. They did try using a fuel filter with a drain back valve (a bit like a cartridge oil filter) but that also had its problems and was never rolled out. He said that if your fuel system is in good condition with no leaks then air can not enter the lines so the fuel can not drain back. If you are having to purge the fuel lines after the vehicle stands for a length of time the cause is normally found to be a dodgy injector O ring allowing air to be drawn in via the camshaft housing causing the high pressure fuel system to drain back to the tank. This may or may not allow fuel to leak into the engine oil depending on how bad the O ring is. Another cause of air entering the fuel system is the quick release fuel pipe connectors to the FPR and the fuel cooler where there is dirt i nthe joint or the pipe stubs have minute scratches on them. You can use some WET WITH PARAFIN very fine (almost flour paper) wet and dry to polish the pipe stubs and flush the hose connectors to make sure that they are clean. He recommends that if you see signs of scratching on the pipe stubs that you change them and the hoses to ensure that they seal perfectly. Hope this helps. |
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28th Nov 2013 10:09pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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Sorry Paul only just noticed your post, no the oil level hasn't gone up, can't smell any diesel when the oil cap is off so I'm 99% certain of the soundness of the injector washers and seals. No leaks from the FPR, not long replaced as the last one leaked like a sieve. I'm tempted to silicon up all the joints to try and seal them all up
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28th Nov 2013 10:17pm |
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| Paulv8 Member Since: 09 Jun 2013 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 618
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Good luck in tracing it - I can't offer any more coherent thoughts mate. V8 90...WIP
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28th Nov 2013 10:27pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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Well I thought I'd give this a try;
using a 19mm spaniard slackened the REAR OUTER pipe nut, that's the easy one on the LEFT looking at it, and nearest. Undo it completely, and catch the copper washer. Now examine the end of the pipe. Jammed into it is a small nylon plug thing with three holes in the end of it. Under the three holes is a small flat filter. Under that is the tiny AIR BLEED HOLE. All the time the TD5 fuel pump is running, any air in the filter head SHOULD vent THROUGH the little filter then through the little bleed hole, and be dumped back into the fuel tank through the far left connection along with some fuel. So ... if the little filter in the nylon plug bleed device is blocked with dirt, NO AIR BLEED especially on a first start. So what I did was carefully to prise the nylon plug thing out of the end of the pipe. It is help in by a small O-ring that comes out with it. Then I SPLIT the end off the thing using a sharp knife, and scraped off the filter thing which is there ONLY to stop the bleed hole from getting blocked - so the filter blocks instead! I've given it a try, nothing much to lose, initiated the purge sequence and part way through the first purge the pump seemed to settle down and became the quietest I've heard it for years. It continued to stay quieter through the rest of the purge. It still took a few seconds of winding over on the starter to fire but seems to start on the button on a couple of restarts after. The big test will be whether it is as willing in the morning  |
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28th Nov 2013 11:28pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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Well there looks to be a happy ending here. Went out to it this morning and turned the key, heard the usual gurgling and noisyish pump whirring away whilst waiting for the glow plug light but before the light went out the pump quietened down a tadge. Turned the key that bit more and it fired up straight away
Went off and did what I had to do for the kids pony at the local livery yard, got back in and it started straight away. The pump is definately quieter and dare I say it but it does seem to run better overall. So if you're having issues with a noisy pump, starting involves a fair bit of cranking as if there is no diesel then it wouldn't hurt just to check the air bleed valve, as a quick check you could just pop it out and run without but all I did was to crack the end open with a sharp knife and scrape off some of the gauze that resembles the top of a Brillo pad, make sure that I could suck and blow through it, couldn't before, then put it back in. It's not that it takes much getting out, 19mm spanner and a strong pair of fingers to squeeze the clips on the push fit pipe connection. No need to take the wheel off and I dd it last night leaving the filter guard still on. It took me longer to find the tools than to do the job. The cost..................nowt! |
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29th Nov 2013 12:13pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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It may be an idea to just take the plastic bit out and give it a try without. All that the plastic insert is doing is cutting down on the crud that may be found in the filter head, it's not as if it can force air through at great rate of knots.
As said before it doesn't take much getting to and the white plastic insert is just pushed in, either grasp firmly and pull out or push it out with an appropriate tool. Another thing I've noticed driving round today is that the lumpy running when coming to a junction/stop start traffic has gone. This is when you move up behind the car in front when in a queue dip the clutch and the engine seems to hunt and run as if only four cylinders are firing. Much akin to when the vacuum pipe comes off the distributor or the plates are sticking giving timing issues on a V8. I'd reccomend that anyone with a noisy pump, starting issues, lumpy running at tickover give this little feller a looksee. |
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29th Nov 2013 3:22pm |
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| sc70 Member Since: 29 Jun 2010 Location: Tregaron Posts: 261  
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I've had the same problems, wont prime but if you slacken filter it primes and starts, will try this in the morning to see if its the same
www.Equi-Trek-Tregaron.co.uk
Main Dealers for Equi-Trek and Brian James Trailers |
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29th Nov 2013 9:21pm |
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| ppad Member Since: 16 Nov 2012 Location: now, UK S Coast Posts: 218  
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Excellent post JWL thanks -
 we need "cut out and keep" section for items like this, when we hit the same trouble! You didn't take any more photos of your filter work / modification? Sold the much modified 110 2.8, in Oz
Brought the 90 home from Switzerland ... |
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2nd Dec 2013 3:26pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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There's not a lot of photogenic parts to this "fix". You just reach in, pop the pipe off then get your spanner and unscrew the pipe fitting. Splitting the plastic end isn't rocket science then it's all back together again.
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2nd Dec 2013 3:38pm |
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| Carlosbeldia Member Since: 13 Oct 2013 Location: Cartagena Posts: 43  
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I did the same thing about 2 years ago. Everything was fine until about 2 months later, hard starting came back. We tried everythig, the only thing that worked it out was replacing the purge valve. It have been ok since then.
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2nd Dec 2013 8:29pm |
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