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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471   
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Just keep well away from Suffolk / Norfolk please
 Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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6th Aug 2013 10:09pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16892 
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I am beginning to think that maybe, just maybe, the problem is ...
...you're jinxed! |
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6th Aug 2013 10:45pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6265  
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still not got round to swapping the tyres over but I've noticed the f/os tyre is wearing more on the inside.
garage had a quick go at adjusting the tracking last night and the one side of the track rod is seized 
however I'm a little perplexed as he said the old fashioned design is such that when you adjust the track it adjusts both sides??? only my front os appears to be out so hows that if the tracking adjustment adjusts both equally? |
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3rd Oct 2013 8:25am |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436  
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catherham,
to adjust 1 side you need to disconnect the ball joint of that side and turn it in/out. once ball joints are connected turning the arm will adjust both sides equally and simultaneous. Also, when replacing the ball joints both need to be screwed in till a set length which you find in the workshop manual. both wheels are then set at same angle (toe-in / toe out) to the axle. After that you regulate the toe-in by turning the rod when setting the geometry. This is only tracking adjustment, setting center steering box to straight ahead position is done by adjusting the link between steering box and wheel, and then center position of steering box and center position of steering wheel by jumping teeths on the steering wheel boss. Hope this helps?  |
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3rd Oct 2013 10:03am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6265
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tatra85
many thanks for this. I suspect I need to crawl under the car while reading your note. is it possible that your note should read: to adjust 1 side you need to disconnect the ball joint of that side and turn it in/out. once ball joints are connected turning the ROD will adjust both sides equally and simultaneous and not to adjust 1 side you need to disconnect the ball joint of that side and turn it in/out. once ball joints are connected turning the ARM will adjust both sides equally and simultaneous ? many thanks |
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3rd Oct 2013 10:21am |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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you catch me on my weakness 
never remember the exact terms of those rods 
So correcting my txt: to adjust 1 side you need to disconnect the tie rod ball joint of that side and turn it in/out. once ball joints are connected turning the tie rod will adjust both sides equally and simultaneous. Also, when replacing the ball joints both need to be screwed in till a set length which you find in the workshop manual. both wheels are then set at same angle (toe-in / toe out) to the axle. After that you regulate the toe-in by turning the tie rod when setting the geometry. adjusting the straight ahead position is done by centering the steering box and adjusting the drag link till wheels are centered. 
edit: got the picture from here: http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Steering-Systems.htm |
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3rd Oct 2013 10:34am |
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