 | Home > Tdi > Rear Of Engine Oil Leak |
 
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| Lou Sparts Member Since: 15 Apr 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 1501   
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Try giving the engine a good clean off with some de-greaser and a jet wash or better still a steam cleaner until there are no traces of old oil then go for a drive and check it when you get back and you should be able to see the source of the oil. 2005 Td5 90 XS
Steve |
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21st Jul 2013 5:07pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346 
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Good Shout I'll Give That A Go.
Also noticed while I was out looking for a possible source, that the "dipstick" tube was quite loose in its bolt. I tryed tightening it up but the nut is up tight, yet i can pull the tube up and down a good 1/2". Is this normal? |
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21st Jul 2013 8:59pm |
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| Lou Sparts Member Since: 15 Apr 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 1501
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Crank shaft rear oil seals are a weak point on TD,s and 200 Tdi,s was redesigned for the 300 Tdi.
Is you engine breather system blocked as this would cause crankcase pressure to build up and force oil out past seals etc. 2005 Td5 90 XS Steve |
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21st Jul 2013 9:17pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346
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Again a good shout, would explain why there is so much oil in the turbo intake pipe.
To service that its a drop the oil out and take all the pipes off and replace the cyclone? |
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21st Jul 2013 9:30pm |
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| Lou Sparts Member Since: 15 Apr 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 1501
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Not to sure of the system employed on the 200 tdi but i seam to remember there was an "oil separator" on the side of the head/rocker cover that needed cleaning or replacing at certain intervals. 2005 Td5 90 XS
Steve |
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21st Jul 2013 9:44pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7700 
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if the dipstick moves up and down you will get a false oil reading when in the down position. i would replace the whole lot to start. assuming the oil is not coming from here then rear crank seal is the most likely. engine out is easiest way to do it plus clutch parts as you suggest as you are in there anyway. Cheers
James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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22nd Jul 2013 7:24am |
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| Skye_Rover Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Skye Posts: 85  
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Hi Shaggydog,
Once the rear oil seal starts to leak, it will get worse in time, as the leak-path is past the rear main bearing cap cruciform seals; once there is oil past these, they will pump it out as the engine vibrates the cap and block. Best way to make sure that this is the leak is to clean around the timing (threaded) hole at the bottom of the flywheel housing, and up into the thread, then watch for oil emerging from this hole after the next run. If it isn't coming from this hole, it is unlikely to be the rear oil seal, but the oil would have to be coming well up inside the thread. To fix the rear oil seal properly, you need to be able to clean the rear of the main bearing cap (seal removed) with a solvent, and blow the residues away with an air-line. Particularly, you need to be able to clean the joint lines between the rear main cap and the block. Once thoroughly cleaned, you can "top-up" a genuine parts rear main seal assy gasket (steel with a foam rubber coating) with beads of silicon sealant along the critical lines. If you PM me, I can put a diagram together of the silicon bead paths that will knock all of your problems (well, the rear oil seal, at least) on the head. Also important, don't be tempted to over-torque the rear seal assy fixings. They should be max'd at 25Nm, any more (especially with the sand-cast assemblies) and the casting will distort, with obvious results! Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads. |
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30th Aug 2013 11:36pm |
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