 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear crossmember refinish |
 
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| whiskywalker Member Since: 13 Apr 2013 Location: helensburgh Posts: 11   
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I had the same problem i painted it a couple of times and every year it came back covered in light rust. Its just so thin. So i gave it a couple of coats of hammerite after rubbing it down and rust treatment then i put 3-4 good coats of wax oil thin coats each one then put a rear cross member chequer plate over it so it looked fab. Every year i wax oil the underneath and pop the 4 cross member bolts off and just recote and check it. Thats been 6 years ago and its fine no problems or rust. Hope this gives you an idea.
Regards Graham |
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23rd Apr 2013 2:29pm |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2664 
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Last time I did some work on the chassis, I used Fertan as a final prep, before using POR-15. No rust has shown through. Easy to use...
http://www.fertan.co.uk/ Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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23rd Apr 2013 2:30pm |
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| davew Member Since: 02 Jan 2012 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 888  
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I use a zinc rich primer with a coat of chassis black over the top of it. In fact pretty much everything I modify/weld gets coated in zinga with or without the chassis black it pretty much lasts for years without a sign of rust reappearing. Kind of like cold galvanising.
I use this stuff... http://www.zinga-uk.com You can buy it online from Frost Auto Restoration http://www.frost.co.uk/zinga-cold-zinc-coating.html The 1Kg tin is the one to go for, 1kg may sound like a lot but it's got a LOT of zinc in it so is very heavy. Never tried the aerosol version. I can recommend their own brand chassis black paint too although it takes a while to dry being oil based. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/ |
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23rd Apr 2013 3:05pm |
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