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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17823

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
For what it's worth I would entirely echo Craig's comments above.

I am not a professional photographer but have had quite a few photos published in book, periodicals and sunday papers (the colour supplements) over the years. I mainly take wildlife, specialising in wolves, where there is no possibility of setting up a shot in the conventional sense and you have to be reactive and spontaneous.

I use Canon equipment, and the primary weapons in my arsenal are the EF 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 L IS USM zoom and the EF 38-300mm f3.5-5.6 L IS USM zoom. These two lenses have come down in price quite dramatically since I bought them and can now be bought for around £1200 and £2100 respectively. If for some reason I could only keep one lense it would be the 28-300 since realistically there is little you cannot do with it, it is fast, IS, and is probably one of the best SLR/DSLR lenses of all time. Despite the proce tag, it is astonishingly good value! At the time I bought it there was in fact no Nikon equivalent in terms of focal length range and speed (I have no idea whether there is now or not) and this lense was a major influence for many photographers choosing Canon over Nikon (realistically the high-end equipment from both manufacturers is superb, and unless there is a particular gap on one or other range - such as this lense - there is little to choose between them).

Both Canon and Nikon entry-level equipment, and especially kit lenses, are built down to a price and are quite frankly not worth bothering with. They tend to be variable in build quality, use far too much plastic, and are not durable. They also tend not to be sealed as well as the professional gear, which means that in arduous conditions you are much more likely to find dirt in the lense, which will usually destroy it. (The only real worth of kit lenses comes from the fact that you can get started for modest outlay).

Edit - PS - I see from the link in Craig's preceding post that Nikon have introduced an equivalent to the 28-300, which is smaller, lighter, and less than 1/3rd the price of the Canon. This is definitely a lense I would investigate if I had just bought a Nikon body.
Post #216012 4th Mar 2013 10:10am
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SteveG



Member Since: 29 Nov 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 670

2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Belize Green
blackwolf wrote:

Edit - PS - I see from the link in Craig's preceding post that Nikon have introduced an equivalent to the 28-300, which is smaller, lighter, and less than 1/3rd the price of the Canon. This is definitely a lense I would investigate if I had just bought a Nikon body.


As per my earlier post, I know which one I would pick to have as a main go for lense, 18-200. Has wide angle, which 28-300 doesn't and is smaller, lighter and less expensive.


http://kenrockwell.com/nikon/comparisons/DX-super-zooms/index.htm

Cheers

Steve
Post #216024 4th Mar 2013 11:27am
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
...and that's typically why you don't have a do it all lens. Thumbs Up

As I said, if you want an SLR but only one lens, there's not much point having an SLR. Go for a bridge.

The 18-200 is a pretty good lens, but you'll come up short for wildlife or anything that you need the extra reach.

Personally, I wouldn't have any of those lenses as you loose too much at either end of their capability. Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #216026 4th Mar 2013 11:34am
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a13x



Member Since: 25 Sep 2011
Location: Burton on Trent
Posts: 555

United Kingdom 
I've had to cut my gear right down in order to fund this car with maybe the rest going soon as is hardly used. Won't be getting shut of the Billingham bag though, best bag around.

Canon 1Dmk3
24-105L
135L
Post #216031 4th Mar 2013 11:48am
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dnorrishill



Member Since: 15 Jul 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 625

England 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
I don't want to start a war here, but I would argue for an slr over a bridge/compact camera for the following reasons:

- Autofocus speed, nothing will touch an slr, not a compact to any of these new mirrorless things.
- Manual control (if required)
- Flexibility, I can stick on a kit lens for a reasonably compact setup or I can use my primes if I want portraits, etc.
- Available light, few if any compact cameras have the aperture or sensor size that I can achieve with an slr, and when I win the lottery I may well upgrade to the Canon 6D which will have even more light as it has a larger sensor.
- Use of external flash via the hotshoe.

Don't get me wrong I do actually have a little Canon Ixus, but I only take it to places where I absolutely cannot take an slr, e.g. football grounds, etc.
Post #216032 4th Mar 2013 11:49am
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
dnorrishill wrote:

- Autofocus speed, nothing will touch an slr, not a compact to any of these new mirrorless things.
- Manual control (if required)
- Flexibility, I can stick on a kit lens for a reasonably compact setup or I can use my primes if I want portraits, etc.
- Available light, few if any compact cameras have the aperture or sensor size that I can achieve with an slr, and when I win the lottery I may well upgrade to the Canon 6D which will have even more light as it has a larger sensor.
- Use of external flash via the hotshoe.


All good points, but you'd be suprised at how good some of the Nikon and Canon Bridges are.

Some of the lenses listed in this thread as equally as slow as a bridge

Most good bridges have full manual controls - Also if you are going to shoot in Auto mode on an SLR, don't buy an SLR.

Flexibility, you're right, but only if you are going to have more than the single lens

Available light. Not so right with that one, but you are correct in the size of the sensor, doesn't make it any lighter though, but yes SLR's are generally better in low light.

Most decent bridges will have a shoe mount.


In theory, you are right, and I'd never choose a Bridge over an SLR, but then I would never choose a "do it all lens" for an SLR either. Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #216034 4th Mar 2013 11:59am
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SteveG



Member Since: 29 Nov 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 670

2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Belize Green
x-isle wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't have any of those lenses as you loose too much at either end of their capability.

Sorry, on page one of this thread, didn't you say that one of the lenses in this test is awesome??

You make a good point about 300 for long distance wildlife though.

x-isle wrote:
Also if you are going to shoot in Auto mode on an SLR, don't buy an SLR.


There's nothing wrong with using an SLR like a point and shoot when the need or desire arises to do so. That's the benefit of their flexibility that dnorrishill was eluding to.
Post #216042 4th Mar 2013 12:43pm
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
SteveG wrote:
x-isle wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't have any of those lenses as you loose too much at either end of their capability.

Sorry, on page one of this thread, didn't you say that one of the lenses in this test is awesome??

You make a good point about 300 for long distance wildlife though.

x-isle wrote:
Also if you are going to shoot in Auto mode on an SLR, don't buy an SLR.


There's nothing wrong with using an SLR like a point and shoot when the need or desire arises to do so. That's the benefit of their flexibility that dnorrishill was eluding to.



Correct, it is a good lens if you are after a wide lens that has a long reach, but I still wouldn't buy one. It's a good compromise if you don't want to carry more than one lens.

As for Auto mode, I give you half a point, if you do need to point and shoot then you should be in P or Program mode and not Auto mode.

Funny lecture a long time ago when a techy explained why Auto is bad......... Auto mode is designed to make holiday snaps look great (even on the Pro cameras), now you might think thats a good idea. However, there's a caveat to that.........

......It's designed to make yellow tone look good on holiday. Rolling with laughter That be the truth. Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #216044 4th Mar 2013 12:48pm
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
.....AND IF BY MAGIC!!!!!!

http://www.cardinalphoto.com/content/long-...ed-vr-lens

About time Nikon! Bow down Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #216279 5th Mar 2013 9:06am
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BigMike



Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

United Kingdom 
Glynn, take it from me (a pro commercial photographer), you'll be fine with an 18/70. If you really want to buy something, get the 24-120 VR. It's only F4 max but it's a cracking lens and will do most things. You just don't need anymore than that to document a trip. Too many amateur photographers think their shooting will improve if they spend thousands on lenses. It won't. Granted, if you want to take close ups of flowers and frogs then you need other bits of kit, but for the intended purpose, one lens is all you need. Match it to a camera with a decent ISO range and bobs your uncle.
Post #216355 5th Mar 2013 2:18pm
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BigMike



Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

United Kingdom 
by the way, I use a point and shoot compact for everything outside of work. never any need really for anything else. try getting sand out of a zoom lens, impossible. Also try getting a discreet portrait of a tuareg etc with a dslr a nd a 300 mil lens. not going to happen. plus in many places wielding a dslr with a large lens hanging off the end is asking for trouble.
Post #216356 5th Mar 2013 2:20pm
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
I agree with half of what BigMike is saying, it's horses for courses.

I am not a pro, but a very keen amatuer (although I have sold a few equestrian event photos in the past).

For me, my camera equipment is not there for holiday snaps, family events etc..... Generally, I either use a Bridge or even just my Galaxy S3 phone as phone cameras are pretty good these days. Sometimes, I'll use an SLR, but usually just bung a 35mm on my older D70s which is fine.

This is where a lot of Pros are mis-understood. For me, there's 2 differences between a pro and keen amateur

1) Pros use photography as a tool to make money
2) The passion is different (unless the pro is also a keen amateur too!)

A pro isn't nessecarilly a better photographer than an amatuer. However, as I said, BigMike is right, but also wrong. A keen amateur (one that plans a photography outing for a particular reason) would benefit from spending £££££ on equipment on the same way a pro would, but I also get the point that a lot of "all the gear, no idea" folk do waste money on not understanding the technical side of things.

Thumbs Up Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #216543 6th Mar 2013 9:14am
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tatra805



Member Since: 16 Aug 2011
Location: Dolany
Posts: 436

Slovakia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
Being an amateur on a budget with a pro background i'll throw in my 2 cents

Fast objectives are good,(and kinky Mr. Green ), but not everyone has the stretch to throw in a couple of thousands to get kitted out. And to me the whole DSLR experience is a long term thing and a learning curve. For point and shoot things I wonder how many of us will run into the limitations of less pro-material. But if the bug bites you'll know when to step up.

As already said it's not the equipment that makes the picture.

Overall DSLR is a big step up in quality and experience to a bridge camera (if you leave out the top level bridges which are not that much cheaper anyway) and enough to satisfy most for long time.

So i throw in 2 not high end objectives but happy with them for all round use and certainly better than most of the kit-lenses.

Nikkor 18-105 AF-S VR ED 4.5-5.6
Nikkor 70-300 AF-S VR ED 3.5-5.6

Throw in a dedicated macro if you are in to that type of stuff and a fast 35 or 50mm objective and you should be good for a long time.

I agree with others that the do-it-all lenses are not all that fantastic and more a compromise in-all than the sum of all good things.
The only reason i would go for one is if i absolutely can only take one body and lens. (eg alpinism) But (been there done that etc) you will see the difference if you are used to multiple objectives and might feel your pictures are not as good as they could be.

2 cents only
Smile
Post #216556 6th Mar 2013 10:30am
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Thumbs Up Bow down

I agree with you there, particulary if you are looking to "get into photography" rather than wanting "great photos from a trip". There's a big difference. Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #216557 6th Mar 2013 10:33am
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WarPig



Member Since: 05 Dec 2009
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 1748

England 1996 Defender 110 300 Tdi USW Bonatti Grey
Ive been looking at a Kenko Teleplus Pro 300 DG 1.4X Conversion lens. Does it simply magnify your existing lens even further, so a 70-300 will zoom to 600mm? Is there any reduction in image quality by adding another lens like this?
Post #216561 6th Mar 2013 10:48am
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