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DAZ110 Member Since: 06 Dec 2007 Location: East Sussex Posts: 2058 ![]() ![]() |
All I know is that the LED bulbs have to fitted the correct way around in the lamp holder, but I doubt this helps much, sorry.
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Killer90 Site Sponsor Member Since: 09 Oct 2011 Location: Hertfordshire Posts: 6478 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Porny Site Sponsor Member Since: 31 Aug 2009 Location: Sutton Coldfield - West Midlands Posts: 810 ![]() ![]() |
To make them come on when the rear door is opened is easy...
Just give the lamp permanent 12 volts (which you will at the current light) and switch via earth... so basically piggy back off the rear door switch (to the right of the rear door). When the door is opened, the switch goes to earth and will put the lamp on. This means the normal lights will still work as intended You can switch them via the light, but this is a little bit more involved... The light is controlled by 3 ways... the manual switch, the door switches going to earth or by the alarm 10AS unit (which turns the lights on when the alarm is disarmed) and also does the dimming function. Off the top of my head, I can't remember where I connected into last time I did this. Ian IRB The home of the first modified Keswick Green 90 - and the first 2.4 Puma through both the 200bhp and 550Nm barriers. www.IRBdevelopments.com www.facebook.com/irbdevelopments www.integrated316.com www.facebook.com/integrated316 |
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SiWhite Member Since: 19 Jan 2010 Location: North Hampshire Posts: 455 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Inigo, interior lights are fairly unique in that the earth is switched by the door opening and closing, and a permanent live is fitted. Most other circuits have a switched live, and are permanently earthed.
You'll need to take a live feed from somewhere (might as well take it from the existing interior lights, to keep a common fuse) and then connect the earth either to the switch at the rear door or inside the existing light. As someone has mentioned, you may need to switch pos and neg inside the new LED lights - the D in LED stands for Diode - they only work when 12v 'flows' through them one way and not the other. Hpe this helps. My blog - www.anacreinhampshire.blogspot.co.uk 110 TD5 BuildHERE - sold! 110 Tdci Build HERE - sold! Passat Alltrack - 4x4, auto, 45mpg, gloriously comfortable - but not a Defender! |
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Inigo Member Since: 13 Nov 2011 Location: Kent Posts: 625 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks for the replies.
I appreciate that the LEDs have to be wired the right way round. I also fell foul of the negative base plate and blew a fuse in fitting the replacement LED. I have some similar to Killer90's, but fitted a while back, cheapo Ebay jobs, but 50% of the LED elements have burnt out so I will probably replace with a set of Killer's. The replacement LED was working fine and if I disconnect the new MUD lamps, still works. With the MUD lamps connected, it does not work. I can get either the MUD lamps to work, or the existing light (whether it has the original filament bulb or the replacement LED) but not both. I understand that power is supplied via the 10AS alarm box (that also powers the lamps down after they have been left on for a while). Does this somehow not like there being extra load on the circuit? I have run cables over the headlining to the central lamp fitting and am trying to avoid running the elsewhere, unless necessary. But current state of play is that the MUD lamps are wired between permanent live and switched earth (from light fitting) and come on when the door opens, but original lamp does not work. Struggling to understand what is going on. |
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achuakh Member Since: 12 Apr 2012 Location: Singapore Posts: 161 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hope you have sorted your problem by now, but i'll share how i did mine.
I got 2x 5w halogen bulbs and 2x ikea round lamps. the ones the mount below the shelving. so i just take my solder and solder 2 wires in parallel to the main courtesy lamp where the bulb is. so it's one wire to each side of the bulb holder. this makes a parallel connection. so you don't have to muck around with the wiring on the vehicle directly. so the 10AS will switch 20W to ground (as 2x 10W) front and back lamps if you have a SW, i've a HT. Now, using those wires, connect them to the ikea wiring kit, you just cut off the plug which goes to the step down transformer and you have the bare wires, connect them, 1 to each of the 2 wires you soldered earlier. place the lights and screw them onto the center rib of the roof (or where you want them) and there you have it. These additional 2 lamps are tied to the front courtesy lamp, be it on, off or door. i've added a red led strip on the side edge of rear door as a safety when the door is opened, all using this 'new' wiring loom. I've used this setup for over 8yrs. I never had a cooked 10AS or blew a fuse. In a nutshell it's additional 3 parallel connections from the front courtesy lamp at the point where it contacts the bulb. However, if you want to go easy on the load, then use LEDs instead. The defender has migrated, leaving the owner behind. |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20775 ![]() ![]() |
If it helps have a look at 'custom lighting mods' in my gallery you can see how I did mine. If your using LED extra lights providing the current draw doesn't exceed the standard 10w incandescent bulb it will be fine and react just the same as the interior light. Wiring wise it will work perfectly this way just solder your connections to the existing interior light terminals where the light sits. Don't tap into the actual wires to the fitting or you'll lose the switching ability of the standard interior light. WeWillWinπ¬π§πΊπΈ
β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°πͺ |
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