lorryman100 wrote:

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Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge

Here is how I fixed it in place:
1. Took out original cubby boxes 4x machine screws and removed cubby box.
2. There are two timber angled lengths affixed to the bottom of the cubby box held on with 3x staples and glue. I carefully removed them just in case and tapped the staples legs flat.
3. Took the safe out to car and test fitted it. First problem is that only two of the fixing points on the car are available, the rear two as the front two fixing points are under the power sockets which is fresh air.
4. Placed cubby box on top of safe and found the holes were close enough. Used M4 machine screws and washers and lined the two up. I then tightened the front two bolts tight enough as not to distort the metal top plate on the safe to let the key lock mark the bottom of the cuddy.
5. After undoing the bolts and lifting of cubby saw that the bottom was marked for drilling the access hole for the lock. Used a forstner bit and drilled the hole. matched up the safe and cubby box and found everything lined up...TF.
6. Took the now complete assembly out to car and sat it between the seats. Found the top of the cubby box was not level and when you use only the rear fixing points the front lifts up and vibrates.
7. Took the complete cubby box out and placed the original timber angled lengths( see note 2..... TF) back onto the floor and used the front two fixing bolts to fix them in place. Tightened them right up so the head was buried into the timber.
8. Placed the completed cubby box back into place and fixed the rear bolts. Then used two self tappers into the timber rails at the front fixing point. Whole unit now solid and level.

The only difference now to when I originally fitted it is that I later drilled an additional two holes into the transmission cover and fitted riv-nuts so that the safe is now held on with 4 x bolts into riv-nuts.


Brian.

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Lorryman100 wrote:

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Brian - Do you not ever find that too high / gets in the way of elbow room changing gear?

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df1 wrote:

Would it be a big job put the ecu into this then ?

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"Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948"

JSG wrote:

After an abortive attempt at fitting a Raptor cubby box which turned out to be too big for a Puma I took the plunge and ordered a Nakatanenga under cubby safe following a look at bpman's at the L2B.

After taking the original cubby box out I confirmed what others had said - you can use the two existing rear rivnuts in the seat box cover but not the front pair.

It comes with a pair of rivnuts which aren't the same size as the originals and are too large for the holes in the safe which seemed a bit daft. I drilled out the holes in the floor of the safe for the supplied bolts and rivnuts and drilled two new holes in theseat box cover.

Next problem was the lack of a rivnut tool - Following a look on the internet U found info on a 'home made tool' which worked rather well




Diag of tool from the web.




In use.




Fixed rivnut.

JSG wrote:

Trimmed the carpet around the new rivnuts and put some bolts in the redundant rivnuts at the front.




I fed the 12v feed and earth for the sockets under the carpet and through one of the original holes.




Wired up and bolted in place.

JSG wrote:

When I test fitted at the start I decided it was better with the wooden spacers removed from the bottom of the cubby box. The only problem with this was the thickness (or rather wafer thin-ness) of the recessed holes that the bolts pass through in the floor of the cubby so I decided to add an extra bolt which meant an extra hole through the base of the cubby and the lid of the safe.




Extra hole in lid.




And the extra bolt through the base of the cubby box under the cup holder.


Job done