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CRJ



Member Since: 12 Mar 2011
Location: Sealand - Denmark
Posts: 253

Denmark 1991 Defender 90 200 Tdi ST Alpine White
Help needed - removing the metal pipe underneath turbo
Twice my mechanic have tried to stop the leak between manifold and turbo - without luck Evil or Very Mad Now I am about to take manifold and turbo out and have the surfaces machined by a pro. But how the H... do you remove the metalpipe underneath the turbo Big Cry
And by the way the coppergasket from Germany was splitted in two...... what has been done wrong?

Best regards
CRJ 88 Ser. 3 1980 -sold
Puma 130 - 08- sold
90 200tdi 1991 - sold
88 Ser. 3 1977 200 TDI
110 CC 2003
Post #165249 30th Aug 2012 7:38am
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Porny
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Member Since: 31 Aug 2009
Location: Sutton Coldfield - West Midlands
Posts: 789

 
It is held in with 2x M6 bolts (M8 head) - but they can be a bit of a pain to get to. In the past I have done them from underneath, but will be harder if you still have the catalyst in place (rather than a Decat).

The other option is to unbolt the drain pipe from the block end, and leave it attached to the turbo - the block end is held in a basic clamp, but can be a bit tight to remove - as sealed with an O-ring.

If you loosen the catalyst off (so unbolt the 4 mounting nuts to the turbo, undo the cat to engine block mountings and un-bolt from the rest of the exhaust) then you will give yourself a bit more room. Land Rover say to remove the four studs from the top of the Cat to allow more movement - but they have a habit of snapping.


Once the turbo is off you can lift the Cat out from the engine bay if needed (can't remember if you still have to remove the gearbox crossmember).


To get the manifold off, I found it easier to remove the plate that all the ancillaries bolt to... or you will be undoing the bolts at a funny angle - and they have a habit of being tight!

I use uprated studs and proper high temp lock nuts when I refit the turbos - if you get stuck, I can send you three over.


Torque wise - 10Nm for the oild drain pipe (must use new gasket), 35nm for the Banjo Bolt, 23Nm for the three turbo bolts.


Ian IRB
The home of the first modified Keswick Green 90 - and the first 2.4 Puma through both the 200bhp and 550Nm barriers.

www.IRBdevelopments.com

www.facebook.com/irbdevelopments

www.integrated316.com

www.facebook.com/integrated316
Post #165252 30th Aug 2012 8:22am
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CRJ



Member Since: 12 Mar 2011
Location: Sealand - Denmark
Posts: 253

Denmark 1991 Defender 90 200 Tdi ST Alpine White
Thumbs Up Thank you - I was hoping that there was an easier way - but I will crawl underneath - luckily it isnīt raining Cool
And thanks a lot for all the other information. If I manage to get the cat out - I donīt think it is going back in.

Best regards
Christian 88 Ser. 3 1980 -sold
Puma 130 - 08- sold
90 200tdi 1991 - sold
88 Ser. 3 1977 200 TDI
110 CC 2003
Post #165257 30th Aug 2012 8:48am
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CRJ



Member Since: 12 Mar 2011
Location: Sealand - Denmark
Posts: 253

Denmark 1991 Defender 90 200 Tdi ST Alpine White
Turbo and manifold is out Smile BUT.... damn -the surface on the turbo going on the manifold is very bad - need to take at least 3 - 5 mm of in order to get it even - the guy doing it says he will not guarantee that it will last when taking so much of Shocked Has anyone else experienced similar? It must have been very very warm in order to get so much out of shape.
Best regards
Christian 88 Ser. 3 1980 -sold
Puma 130 - 08- sold
90 200tdi 1991 - sold
88 Ser. 3 1977 200 TDI
110 CC 2003
Post #165442 30th Aug 2012 8:30pm
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