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| CapeLandy Member Since: 21 Jul 2008 Location: Cape Town Posts: 558  
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Trip Report Botswana 2009
We left the Cape of Storms early on the 27th of June for the clear skies of the Northern Cape and saw the last rain cloud for 3 weeks. Thank goodness as we missed one of our stormiest winters in a while. A long day of driving saw us entering the sleepy town of Kenhard to a small campsite on a little sheep farmers land and given the usual country welcome and hospitality. Camped our first night under the stars which took some time setting up for the first time. We had a chilly -5°C with ice all over the tents, cars and equipment stacked on our roofracks. The next morning we waited for full sunlight to dry up all the ice and re-packed the Landies for quicker access to essentials. Headed up North to arrive at the transfrontier Kalahari Park at Twee Rivieren. Nice camping facilities and the last time we had running Hot water for some time. Heard plenty Lion roaring through the night so not too much sleep. Next morning spent a couple hours at border control to check out of South Africa into Botswana including engine and chassis number checking. Drove through the Kalahari Park along the dry Auob river bed which was teeming with all possible game. We were so fortunate to witness a cheetah cross in front of our bonnet to meet up with 3 others who had just brought down a springbok (not the rugby playing type) and we watched them devouring the poor lad only 20 meters away. After a long dusty and bumpy track we ended up at Nossob Camp but only to refuel as we had no booking we still had 100km to travel in soft sandy bush track to Matopi Camp on the Botswana side of the park. We fueled up the main and our 50 liter plastic tank mounted in the storage area inside to prepare for some days without fuel. Left Nossob at around 16h45 and traveled for 4 hours (most in the dark - thank goodness for the spots) to our next "camp" which is just a lonely tree with the word "campsite" on a piece of wood. The recovery spade became the Latrine Building Utensil and when the spade is missing then “don't disturb” became the camp rule from then on in. We set up rapidly and kept a fire extinguisher close on hand as this is where no fences exist for protection from wild animals. We only heard Jackal and Hyena in the night and had a good nights rest. After a good start to the day with eggs and bacon we shared our camp with the scavengers of the area, the Hornbill who daringly make off with anything edible that's not actually in your hands. We made the next 74km's to Bosbogolo Pan in 3˝ hours which was completely dry at this time of year with some buck and jackal on the pan staying out of any Lions reach in the open grass filled pan. This campsite at least had a wooden boma and a cement slab where we could put all our goods but ablutions and water are still your own supply. We set up one 20 liter jerry can above some coals on the fire and plugged in the 12V shower and some of us managed to get clean behind the Landy before sunset. Breathtaking Sunset and Sunrise witnessed through the windows of the EaziAwn made for a remarkable experience. We took a drive for the day to nearby Mpayathutlwa Pan which has a borehole watering hole where you could see some game on the pan but no predators as yet. The few other drivers we met had also not had any Lion sightings so we resigned ourselves to spotting other game and wildlife. We spotted a nice honey badger making off into the bush and plenty predatory birds all over. Spent another night back at camp and traveled next to the exit gate of the park at Mabuasehube Gate and went north on a massively wide sand road which became extremely sandy and we did a lot of fishtailing at 80km/h. We took a further shortcut based on the GPS to Kang which cut about 51km's from the normal route and was an amazing route which got narrower and narrower until we were scraping the local foliage which is bristling with thorns of note. Here we still had plenty fuel which we used up from the inside tank to refuel and carried on another hour to Khalahri rest camp. A beautiful little campsite with reed partitions and a tame Girraffe about 14months old rescued from his dead mother in the park. The kids were over the moon to be able to play with a real giraffe and feel that rasp for a tongue able to devour thorns and all. After a while he started sticking his long neck were it was not so welcome any more and the fun part started wearing thin with the adults and we had to shut everything until he lost interest. Being a wild animal he also displayed a little aggression when being tried to be made to leave camp unwillingly. Spent two days resting and going for walks around the bush but due to Hunters in the park we were not able to get into the reserve as advertised which was a bit unfair - money talks I guess. Ablutions were good and a donkey boiler with wood fire to get the water to temperature. Headed off to the Metropolis of Maun the following day and stayed at Audi Camp on the waterside of the Delta. Nice clean camp with luke warm water but no municipal drinking water due to diesel shortage over weekend for municipal pumps. Hey, T.i.A. Packed up early next morning and drove to the central Khalahri via Rakops where we managed to fill water and fuel in a very small dusty town with moon craters in their roads and rabid looking dogs for pets. Fuel was so cheap in Botswana we were smiling all the way - The country is littered with Cruiser Bakkies as the only apparent mode of transport with the odd Landy here and there. The drive to Deception Valley was exhausting to say the least - seems like most drivers fly through in 2WD  up the tracks making it unpleasant at any speed. We stuck at between 20 and 30 km/h to save the suspension and at least spot some animals. We decided to stay an additional night due to the weary drive in but we had to shift camp when the original booking arrived but no sweat as we were expecting it may happen. Went for a game drive through the Deception valley and spotted all types of buck, jackal and even a herd of Giraffe but no Lion or Cheetah.
We then traveled the next day to the office of Lekhubu Island run by the community trust situated in Matshumo and were told in no uncertain terms that the route was closed from Rains in early June at Nata which had waterlogged the route and they had already lost one truck in the mud and recovered other visitors. We were welcome to camp however at the edge of the Sowa pan which we did with another 12 or so other travelers who had met the same reply. They had also driven further and reported the route impassable. We, however were the only Landie's and having paid to be there we decided to hell with them and the next morning took on the track. It was exciting to say the least and after once recovering the TD5 with a snatch rope and nearly burying ourselves in the process in black thick mud of the worst kind ever seen, we made it to a 2km stretch of just open water and no sign of the track. Following the GPS on Tracks 4 Africa we sort of took the right way but ended up just taking whichever line looked shallowest which was hit and miss and the TD5 behind had to duck either left or right when the Puma started to either sink at a rapid rate or fishtail to the side. Some how we made it through thinking that was the worst but in 10km's time the water was back and worse. I took a wrong line and thought the grass on the bank looked good but ended up being black mud and we sank up to the axles. Rocking and rolling back and forward got us 300mm at a time slowly veering back to the water section but then I discovered that if I floor it in 3rd low the mud on the BFG Muds was flung into the wheel arches and left some tread free to grip and so we managed to get going and back into the lake of the road which was better than just plain mud. The Island of Lekhubu is breathtaking as it appears in the middle of the salty white pan. The "island" is and extrusion of Granite rocks and huge Baobab trees which look like spuds with roots planted upside down in the ground. Unfortunately on arrival we noted a whine form the gearbox and traced a missing breather pipe to the top of the box to be a possible cause for concern. Fitted a temporary piece of hose and routed up under the bonnet. We did a night walk into the pan to experience the sunset and night sky but were hounded by as many mosquitoes as were stars in the sky. Lucky we all were dosed with Malaria Tablets daily. Spent two days resting here and enjoying nature on this amazing piece of land which is a local’s place of worship also. We headed out again North through the route to Gweta which was a far more comfortable route through the grasslands making use of the seed nets over the radiator grill. Here we re-filled water and diesel and carried on to the Nxai Pan Nature Reserve and took a diabolical road to Bain's Baobab campsite. This also included driving over the middle of the salt pan which can be a deceiving surface looking hard on top but like glue underneath. Again, being in a defender – no problems. This campsite was also a rustic affair where we had a jerry can shower affair but long drop toilets. There was some wildlife to be seen but none of the predators this time round. Next morning off to Maun a few hundred clicks and to give the girls a break we booked into chalets at Maun Lodge which happened to have a special running that weekend. Nice hot showers and a meal at Audi Camp Restaurant charged the pretty worn batteries after a hard two weeks camping. Next it was down and then up to the North of the Okavango Delta just short of Shakawe at a riverside camp called Drotsky's cabins. Very nice setup with great views, a bar and restaurant. On opening my bonnet I discovered a nice surprise of oil everywhere. Thanks to the forum I had a good idea it was the vacuum pump. The oil level had not dropped so I was not too concerned but called the assist guys who found a dealer where we were passing with a pump. We booked a river guide and boat for the two families and did 8 hours river cruise up and down the Okavango River split into morning and afternoon. This guide called Salvation really knows his birds and we were amazed at the number of sightings of birds you could only dream about seeing. We saw crocks everywhere and a troop of Hippos who made it clear who was boss of the river. That evening while sitting at the bar I noticed a sudden increase of fish activity at 20h00 so I sent my son for the fishing tackle. A few hours later and a nice big Tiger took the lure and gave me 15 minutes workout on the reel. The smile tells the storey. I let her go again buy the way. Spent another day relaxing and then back down south to Nguma Island Camp also on the Delta. It also involved a water crossing or two but nothing to write home about. Some German tourist in a rented Nissan asked us how we made it through the water as he had become stuck and the lodge had to recover him in their Israeli built military vehicle. We just smiled and pointed and the green badge on the rear and winked. No words necessary. Went for a walk around the camp and into the bush but the sound of an Elephant behind some foliage sent me high tail it back to camp where we sat around and enjoyed the river and swampy surroundings. At this time the Pula was running low so we didn't try any of the Mokoro rides into the delta and we were sure they wouldn't match our last guide so we left it at that. Next morning back towards civilization we headed for Gobabis in Namibia which was a hell long drive and a border crossing. The Botswana guys were as usual so friendly and helpful but 50 meters on we hit Namibian soil and the cow behind the desk was as pleasant as a swarm of bees in a glass jar. Needless to say this side took longer trying to figure which counter and what papers to fill in. After a long day's drive tempers were frayed but we made it to Gobabis before dark and set up camp at a small lodge. By the time the sun sank it was clear that we were in for a nippy one. 8 hours later and -10°C saw the family shivering behind the canvas and the sleeping bags that were bought on the cheap. The purchaser was severely cursed the next morning as we tried in vain to fill the kettle with water from the taps. We opened our bonnets which were facing the sun to heat up the engines a bit before firing them up. That day was a short trip to Windhoek, so not too early a start. Made it to Windhoek Landy dealer who had to "borrow" a revised vacuum pump from another client but we probably looked more needy. 1 hour later and she was ready to roll to the local campsite. We found an area outside town where the locals carve all the usual touristy animals but for much better prices so we loaded the roof racks with various animals and strapped them down for a windy travel back home. From here on it was two long days back to Cape Town via the border on the orange river and crossing the tropic of Capricorn. We wearily arrived home but plenty good memories were made. Puma 110 - gone Series III 1973 - going strong |
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22nd Jul 2009 4:57pm |
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| kljw Member Since: 23 Jan 2009 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 265  
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an amazing adventure to say the least, you should publish your memories of the trip in a book. Cheers
keith puer claudius |
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23rd Jul 2009 1:00pm |
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| CapeLandy Member Since: 21 Jul 2008 Location: Cape Town Posts: 558
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Thanks mate - apretiate it
On the internet you get to read it for free 
and besides - my English are too bad to rite in a book  Puma 110 - gone
Series III 1973 - going strong |
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23rd Jul 2009 1:22pm |
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| discocuzzy Member Since: 16 Jul 2008 Location: surrey Posts: 1200 
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Great story, any pics? You cannot teach stupid people to do clever things
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23rd Jul 2009 2:51pm |
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| CapeLandy Member Since: 21 Jul 2008 Location: Cape Town Posts: 558
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Pictures at http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/Lan...mview=grid
page 1 and 2 Puma 110 - gone Series III 1973 - going strong |
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23rd Jul 2009 3:11pm |
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