 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma Starter motor burnt out again after 1 week, why? |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 21044  
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Is the battery ground paths all in order and suitable continuity there? ____\We|Will|Win/___
____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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27th Oct 2025 4:13pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3656  
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2 possibilities I can think of.
1. It was a cheap aftermarket starter. 2. Something causing the power to the starter solenoid to stay high, forcing the starter to keep on running after engine started and you already released key from position III. I would think that a bad ground is like an extra resistor in series with the starter, and that would only cause the starter to run slower as the starter would ‘see’ lower voltage across it. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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27th Oct 2025 5:02pm |
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| strang Member Since: 16 May 2012 Location: Happy Valley Posts: 1407 
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Did the ignition start position revert to normal after starting? My missus has burnt out two starter motors on my puma after not realising that the starter was still engaged due to ignition switch sticking on. She did not realise the different sound as she doesn't drive it very often. So the starter motor runs on until it burns out. Euro-Leafing to infinity and beyond.....
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27th Oct 2025 6:18pm |
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| CallumLandyLee Member Since: 27 Oct 2025 Location: Berkshire Posts: 3 
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It’s a bit of a wrestling match with the steering wheel to get the key into stage one when turning, but once it’s there, I can cycle through stages two and three as normal. I don’t hear anything getting stuck in the ignition barrel or switch, and when turned fully to crank, the key returns to its position properly — it doesn’t get stuck.
That said, I could be mistaken since I’m not particularly tuned in to the sounds. The ignition switch itself was replaced about four weeks ago, and I’d be surprised if it failed so soon, as it’s been working fine until now. The brand is Lucas, which from what I understand is a reputable choice for Defender ignitions. I’m planning to replace the starter motor as it’s fried and the starter relay next, just to rule out a faulty relay. My only concern is ending up with the same issue again. Battery reads 12.17v Is there a test I can do after the repair to confirm that the starter signal feed isn’t remaining live once the key is removed? |
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28th Oct 2025 8:25am |
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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 286  
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There was a service bulletin on this. Change the whole ignition switch lock assembly. They wear and then the key hangs up and stays partly in the “start” position which fries the starter.
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28th Oct 2025 3:00pm |
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| strang Member Since: 16 May 2012 Location: Happy Valley Posts: 1407
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I think its got to be the switch not turning the power off to the starter, I can't see how the starter would 'fry' if there was no power to it, and it was not actually turning. Euro-Leafing to infinity and beyond.....
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28th Oct 2025 3:59pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 21044
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Poor battery ground, will cause higher continuity, reduced voltage at the starter and increased current.
Increased current isn’t good. High continuity causes, voltage drop = increased current draw. If there is a high continuity connection on the live side, from positive battery post, battery post fuse and fixings, starter connections, if any of these are loose or dirty, they can cause high continuity and big voltage drop. At rest the voltage readings will check out, but on cranking, just how low does the drop go? You might momentarily see 9v but if it’s even lower than that then it can be a sign of a high continuity connection somewhere that needs tracing. Multimeter is your friend. ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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28th Oct 2025 6:01pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 841
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@custom90 im not sure I'm following you.... adding resistance to any circuit will reduce current flow for any given voltage... ie ohms law....
maybe im just not picking you up right... |
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28th Oct 2025 6:24pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 831  
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Sounds like your ignition switch needs to be replaced. Other symptoms will include your AC fan motor not working and no power in the lighter socket.
Had this happen to me a few times. Now have at least 2 spare ignition switches among some relays and fuses. I hope this helps. No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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29th Oct 2025 1:23am |
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| CallumLandyLee Member Since: 27 Oct 2025 Location: Berkshire Posts: 3
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It does sound like it could be the switch; however, I replaced the ignition switch (Lucas) at the same time as fitting a new starter motor 2 weeks ago, as the defender didn't crank at all one day. New starter switch only= no crank. New starter fitted after= crank on, good to go! fast forward 2 weeks starter motor smelt like burning - no crank once again.
Given that the ignition switch is brand new, I find it unlikely that the switch is the issue. I’ve ordered a new starter relay to rule that out as the culprit. By the end of this, I’ll have a new starter motor (Denso), a new ignition switch (LR Genuine), and a two-week-old Lucas ignition switch all fitted. I’m also planning to install a new battery, as the current one is showing only 12.17 volts and is the original 15-year-old LR unit. I’ll recheck the grounding path as well. If it starts fine but then burns out the starter again, I’ll be at a complete loss as to what else could be causing it — there’s not much left to replace, is there? |
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29th Oct 2025 1:26pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2557
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If fitting a new starter battery I would recommend the Varta LED95 ( Leisure, EFB (enhanced flooded battery) Dual purpose 95 amp hour) 850 CCA battery.
It’s the evolution of the original Varta LFD90 (Leisure,Flooded(wet) Dual purpose 90 amp hour) 800 CCA battery that is generally accepted as the battery rebadged by LR and fitted in Puma defenders at the factory. |
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29th Oct 2025 1:40pm |
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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 286
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You changed the complete ignition/steering lock assembly? Or just the electrical part?
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29th Oct 2025 1:43pm |
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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 286
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“ It’s a bit of a wrestling match with the steering wheel to get the key into stage one when turning, but once it’s there, I can cycle through stages two and three as normal.”
This would indicate yiu just changed the electrical part. The electrical part can, and does, fail but frying the starter is caused by the mechanical part of the ignition switch/steering lock assembly hanging up. It is not usually obvious this is actually happening but it is. |
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29th Oct 2025 1:51pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 21044
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I wonder if there is internal cable corrosion somewhere, if there is significant drop on load that could be a sign, or high continuity on a particular side. Whichever polarity side that is checked.
Sometimes can only be found under load, and in this case a high load momentarily which makes it a little more tricky to check. ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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29th Oct 2025 5:45pm |
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