 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Gear change noises ! |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 18008   
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Double declutch first to second.
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11th Oct 2025 12:12pm |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 157  
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Blackwolf must have a faster left foot than me, or better hand-foot coordination, to manage a double clutch before becoming stationary again. I’m not saying it can’t be done, just that I’m not there.
Lightning: I’ve started to pay closer attention to my gearshift since this thread started. As I wrote in an other thread, I’ve had a lot of clonking when shifting but have now reached a point where she runs like a ’normal’ car. I too tried different strategies to meet the clutch with a light touch on the accelerator, to match the rpm. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it was much worse. Now, with new DMs, new bushes and new oil, I don’t touch the accelerator until my left foot is off the clutch. No clunking no jerking. Smooth! And no upshifting below 2500 rpm. What is it like if you cycle between drive and coasting on a flat road? I had the feeling that there was tremendous amount of play in the driveline and that the rear axle came kicking me in the back upon coasting. Upper link bushes made the biggest difference. Now I almost don’t feel any play and cycling between driving/coasting doesn’t produce any jerkiness or clonking. I can’t say if you have the same problems as I had, just that once you find yours you’ll be able to shift without problem, even if it doesn’t seem like that right now. |
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11th Oct 2025 7:50pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 18008
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It possibly helps that I've been driving vehicles with no synchromesh fairly regularly for getting on for 50 years, so double declutching both up and down the box is second nature. With the Puma's superbly low first gear, a clutch brake might have helped but it would baffle 21st century drivers!
If you want a real gear change challenge try the (non-synchro) gate change on an early Scammell or similar. |
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11th Oct 2025 8:36pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 3480
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Driving along and going on/off the gas there's little if any discernible play in the transmission, only the slight delay while the engine kicks back in when you press the gas pedal.
l'll try not touching the gas pedal until my foot is off the clutch. I can't honestly say whether or not l've done this, until l drive it tomorrow. |
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12th Oct 2025 7:07pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2524
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This topic on the subject is worth a read https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic32669.html In particular the post from Pete at Bell Auto Services on page 2.
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12th Oct 2025 8:20pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 21008
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I would personally change the oil, but also check what Cragster mentions, but it depends on what had attention most recently.
How is the clutch fluid looking too? It’s Hydroscopic (as is brake fluid) which is the same DOT4. So could have taken on some water, and or seals broken down and blackened the fluid. Brake and clutch fluid should be changed every 2 years or at each service. Many garages don’t, if you just get servicing done for you, unless you ask especially for it to be done as well as the service. ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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12th Oct 2025 9:24pm |
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| o4dn Member Since: 08 Jan 2010 Location: South West Posts: 600  
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FWIW I find really difficult to double declutch with the Puma - I always do it with the S3 with success, but the clutch on the Puma makes that much harder, I reckon... “A Land Rover immobilized is a moral defeat for the driver and bad publicity for the vehicle, […] it's up to you to do justice to your Land Rover!” - Land Rover Driving Technique. -- 2009 2.4 Puma Defender 90 SW 1979 Land Rover Series 3 88" Last edited by o4dn on 13th Oct 2025 6:12am. Edited 1 time in total |
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12th Oct 2025 9:31pm |
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| revd Member Since: 20 Apr 2024 Location: England Posts: 284
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I sold my Td5 90 with 200k miles - the original awful clunky and baulky R380 is still giving good service to the new owner I agree it is a slow box though |
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12th Oct 2025 10:27pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 811  
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What seals break down and blacken the clutch fluid? It seems to be a persistent problem for me. Also, my master cylinder has a slow leak... again  I've tried almost all brands of master cylinder except the blue box surprise. They all leak into the driver side floor (LHD) eventually. Am I doing something wrong?
I was told that replacement is better than repair kit. No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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13th Oct 2025 3:04am |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 3480
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l've been driving the Defender today and realised l was not pushing the clutch pedal
right down to the floor. Having made sure the pedal is fully depressed before changing gear, it's a lot better and not one complaint from the transmission at all today. |
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13th Oct 2025 12:22pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 18008
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Yup, that'll do it!
Make sure that there is a definite clang as the pedal bottoms out, I have noticed a lot of drivers become very lazy with the pedal and don't press a clutch all the way down. |
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13th Oct 2025 1:22pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 3480
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"l would personally change the oil, but also check what Cragster mentions, but it depends on what had attention most recently.
How is the clutch fluid looking too? It’s Hydroscopic (as is brake fluid) which is the same DOT4. So could have taken on some water, and or seals broken down and blackened the fluid." lt's good advice l am going to do all this ASAP. l've got the pump (to fill the transmission) on the way, together with a T50 Torx bit. |
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13th Oct 2025 1:53pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 3480
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"Make sure that there is a definite clang as the pedal bottoms out, I have noticed a lot of drivers become very lazy with the pedal and don't press a clutch all the way down "
There was no clang. l've had a look and the substantial floor mat is preventing the pedal from going right to the end stop. Can't be helping matters lol. |
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13th Oct 2025 1:56pm |
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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 278  
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"They all leak into the driver side floor (LHD) eventually."
Define eventually. Everything wears and leaks "eventually". I would not find it surprising if I had to replace the clutch master every four to five years in regular use. The clutch is used constantly and always to its full travel -- unlike a brake master which doesn't really move that much. Every year? That would strike me as excessive. Unless it is used commercially, driven most days, and all day long, then I would hope for maybe every two years? If there is no visible bore wear, you can just fit a kit. |
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13th Oct 2025 3:35pm |
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