 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Rear Diff & Half Shafts / Drive flanges... Help with par |
 
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Any thing else worth looking at while these bits are being done.
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17989   
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Personally I would now always opt for one-piece halfshafts in preference to the separate shaft/flange configuration (and over the years I have run standard shafts and flanges, Ashcroft HD shafts and flanges before concluding that the one-piece are the most pleasant). The deciding factor is the reduction in driveline backlash.
If your standard diff has been satisfactory for your use of the vehicle then there is no reason to upgrade to an ATB, stick with the standard open diff. As a 2002-on 110 your vehicle will have a P38 pinion carrier and should have a four-gear (what most people mysteriously call a "4-pin") differential, and although not the world's most satisfactory diff this is entirely adequate for 90% of people's needs. It is a strong differential, and for normal use of the vehicle unless you need the traction advantage of an ATB or locker there is really no advantage in changing it. The 'weakness' of a P38 pinion carrier is that the two pinion bearings are very close together and hence carry significant loads and tend to wear in arduous use. The only remedy to this is to opt for the Ashcroft Transmissions long-nose diff, but not only is this a costly option but you also need a custom propshaft further adding to the cost. It really isn't needed unless you have a very high-power engine or persistently use the vehicle loaded to MAM in arduous terrain. My recommendation therefore is that if you have been satisfied with the back axle up to now, stick with an Ashcroft rebuilt standard four-gear P38 diff and fit one-piece halfshafts. Apropos the latter, many forum members have reported great satisfaction with Britpart one-piece shafts. I realise that this is hard to believe (and I have to pinch myself) but it seems that this might be one component that Britpart hasn't cocked up. |
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3rd Oct 2025 9:55am |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3877
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Thanks for the reply.
I should have added that I 'may' look at upgrading the engine at some point to maybe a BMW one, athough this has been in the back of my mind for years, so maybe worth as you say change like for like for now (with the one piece shafts) and then upgrade if I do upgrade the engine? Interestingly the Britpart one appears to be more than the Lof one, and like you for mechanical parts I'm a little reluctant to use them. However a quick qoogle does appear you are correct it seems an OK part 
I will look at the normal Diff and one piece lof half shaft |
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3rd Oct 2025 10:20am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8448  
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personally i run Ashcroft HD shafts and then their DM because i want ultimate reliability when running air lockers which i have front and rear. the only thing stronger in my personal experience is Ashcroft Force 9 axle.
an m57 would like upgraded stronger parts in the axles, but it depends on power delivery and what you are doing with it. it can always be done later, i havent checked price difference of Ashcroft HD shafts and DMs vs one piece rear shafts to determine which is viable at what stage. on road normal use std all the way through is fine and by standard i mean standard strength shafts either one or two piece. one piece less chance of slop as one less joint. advantage of a two piece shaft is staying std strength is you can pull a hub off without taking shaft out which if you work in a tight garage like i do is a blessing! other than that go two piece if not looking for a strength upgrade from Ashcrofts. ref diff, if its setup correctly and for std use a standard diff wil be fine for your continued usage. how many miles has the std diff lasted with what you have been using it for. Cheers James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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3rd Oct 2025 10:44am |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3877
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^ thanks
I assume the diff is std and original, I've owned the car 10 years its now on 110K miles. So your right a std replacment should be fine, Will I notice the diffrence of a ATB 99% or the time on the road than what I have now. I was only thinking the 'what if' I go down the engine route... however at that stage I wilp probably be knee deep in upgrades that changing these again will probably not be a huge exspense? Thanks |
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3rd Oct 2025 11:06am |
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| julian Member Since: 17 Feb 2017 Location: Devon Posts: 197 
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I've got a Salisbury, so no one piece shafts.
I used the britpart "extreme" or whatever they're called and then the terrafirma flanges (which are, pretty much, the same as the Ashcroft) I also removed the stub axle oil seals, so the bearings and flange splines are lubricated with ep oil rather than grease. Whenever you look at old half shafts the diff end is (in my experience) fine and it's the wheel end that shows ware. I reckon most of this is due to the lack of lubrication from grease at the wheel end. |
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3rd Oct 2025 11:46am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17989
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No, you won't. Give the low mileage of your vehicle you may find that the whine stops if you adjust the backlash between the pinion and crownwheel, and possibly adjust the pinion bearing preload. It is unlikely that the diff is worn to the point of needing replacement. |
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3rd Oct 2025 1:51pm |
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