 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Rear hub assembly MY2015 110 |
 
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. It also seems like the hub cap was up against the hub nut maybe causing the rotation. Any ideas how this might have happened?
| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 139   
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To me it sounds as if you have mixed the procedures and also might have the old two nut system.
When you write "spacer washer", is that the washer between two nuts? Or is it a spacer behind the thrust washer? I will assume the former below. If you have two nuts, then you should first torque the inner nut to 50Nm, then back it off 90 degrees and then torque to 10Nm. Finally you should torque the outer nut to 50Nm. Last you tab over the lock washer on both nuts. In your description I see three mistakes: Not torquing to 10Nm after backing off. And torquing to 210Nm on the outer, which I guess can damage the threads as the nut is not so thick. And finally not tab over the nuts with the lock washer. Basically, since the inner nut is not torqued, the nuts will be free to move and the washer as well. |
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2nd Sep 2025 12:11pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1316  
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Yeah make sure you did not mix up the two old or new systems. Crucially the newer system has a spacer tube fitted between the two inner bearing races and so the tightening torque of the nut is immaterial. After properly tightening you lock it in place with peening and that's it.
There is plenty discussion here about the pro's and cons of each system, but they are interchangeable but you can't really mix them |
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2nd Sep 2025 12:50pm |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4325  
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I've not looked for a while, but I think there may be parts of the haynes manual that confuses the 2 systems as well. I'm sure I recall a diagram showing the 2 nut arrangement accompanied by text describing the correct single nut system. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
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2nd Sep 2025 1:54pm |
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| ojdefd Member Since: 02 Sep 2025 Location: Jersey Posts: 2 
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That explains it. The Haynes manual is misleading. I have gone back to the original set up of bearings with spacer tube, tabbed washer and lock nut. Looks and feels far better.
The two nut assembly seemed too long, meaning that the drive flange clashes with the lock nut causing the nuts & washer to rotate and damage the stub axle. Thanks for your help. |
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4th Sep 2025 7:36am |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 139
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I don't think there should be a difference in the build depth between the two systems. The two nut system has significantly thinner nuts than the one nut. Also, if you have a spacer and one nut, there is no tabbed washer, you stake the nut where the stub axle is flat, to prevent rotation. Could it be that you still have a mix of parts?
If you have the spacer, and the correct one, I disagree with TexasRover that the torque is immaterial. At 210Nm the spacer will be compressed slightly and set the correct pre-load. It will also effectively lock the inner races to the stub axle, preventing them to rotate. I had all bearings replaced on the rear axle just before I bought the car, and the mechanic had not applied the correct torque, so I had to replace them again when I found there was play. Once I un-staked the nut I could remove it with my fingers. Of course I don't know what torque he applied or if this was due to races not being seated. Since TexasRover has another experience I am not saying this is inevitable, just that I would much rather torque it correctly when I do the job, then risking this to happen. That said, I have converted to the old, two nut system on all four wheels now. |
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4th Sep 2025 8:27am |
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