 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Defender hub bearings spacer/shim |
 
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| jimbo55 Member Since: 15 Jul 2020 Location: Midlands Posts: 406  
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Just take the spacer out and run the old style adjustable lock nuts
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21st Aug 2025 7:45pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 399 
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As Jimbo says you can dispense with the spacer system that works on measuring end float and go to the old twin nut system that is set using preload.
If you rebuild using the spacer method you won't know which one you need until you do some tests. It's a fairly simple process once you've done it a time or two. Essentially there are 7 spacers, starting at 15.5mm and reducing in size in 0.1mm increments. You set your new bearings with the 15.5mm (purple) spacer, torque it all up to FT (210Nm) and then measure the end float of the hub assembly with a dial gauge. You then subtract the end float (plus 0.1mm) from 15.5mm and fit the correct spacer, for example if you have 0.3mm end float with the 15.5mm spacer you remove it and fit the 15.1mm (green) spacer, torque it up, retest for end float to be sure and if all good bash over the end of the nut to stop it coming undone. I keep all seven spacers on the shelf for these very situations. There is a chart somewhere that tells you which spacer to use with the measured end float If you've rebuilt the hub with new bearings and fitted back on the stub shaft and you don't notice any preload (stiffness of rotation) then the spacer you have is either the right size (by chance) or too big. You will only know by measuring the end float. When you torque the stake nut to 210Nm 0.1mm too small is noticeable. |
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21st Aug 2025 9:48pm |
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