 | Home > Technical > Defender 300 Tdi Hole through bulkhead connect heater to cab |
 
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1905  
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I’d say “run away”! but you’re already there, so that’s not very helpful.
To replace the foam seal (which fits between the heater and the bulkhead) the heater itself needs to be removed. This will “test your patience”. (You can substitute your own more colourful wording in there.) Getting the heater out is a pain, getting it back in is worse. Part of this is because the new rubber seal, is large and awkward, and doesn’t compress very well. I’ve done this job (or similar) twice. On the second time, I decided it was easier to remove the wing to improve access. If you look at my ‘rebuild’ thread (linked in my signature below) you’ll find some pics. I’d also suggest having a look at the parts diagrams in “new lr cat” which will give you an idea what goes where. May I ask why you’ve taken the lower dash out to fit a radio? Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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15th Aug 2025 7:38pm |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2377  
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I concur with Donald, the easiest way is to remove the nearside wing. It's not a difficult job to remove it.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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15th Aug 2025 11:17pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3595  
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I may not be understanding correctly, but seems like the op is referring to the foam on the air shut off flap rather than the seal to bulkhead.
In the heater box there are 2 flaps, one on a vertical axis that controls the mix of hot/cold air and one on a horizontal axis - that can be seen in the pic, that controls the volume of air. During my refurbishment, found all foam had crumbled. I replaced the foam on the flaps with some wide foam tape that is normally used in air conditioning systems. I think you only need foam around the perimeter of the flap for a good seal, but landrover covered the whole flap… so thats what I also did. I dont think the surface area of the flap is big enough to give any measurable temperature difference if it was for insulation purposes. Although can give damping effect to the flap and removes another annoying rattle. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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16th Aug 2025 3:55am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1905
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You could be right Dinnu - though the pic shows one piece of foam that’s almost completely missing, and one that’s deteriorating as described.
But if you’re correct, and it’s the thin foam on the flaps in the heater box that are the issue, to do that properly wouldn’t you want to take the heater out? I have to say I never tried to recover one of those flaps with the box still in-situ. I’ve done it “properly” twice (my car and someone else’s) and on both occasions I took the heater completely apart. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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16th Aug 2025 10:44am |
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