 | Home > Td5 > TD5 gearbox replacement - at home - |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17868   
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You cannot leave the bellhousing in place, it can only be removed from the box once the box is off the car.
It is significantly easier to remove the transfer box first, then the gearbox. Both are heavy and I recommend buying/borrowing/hiring a gearbox jack, although some people use an engine hoist through the door of the cab. It is actually not a difficult job to do at home on the drive with basic equipment, but the boxes are heavy enough to require care. |
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19th Jul 2025 6:48pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1784 
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Miserable but achievable, I've done it with both engine hoist and trolley jack. Have always pulled them separately
Made an adapter for the trolley jack to pickup on the slanted face of the transfer box. |
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19th Jul 2025 9:39pm |
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| 300TDi CSW Phil Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Bracknell Posts: 805 
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Did the two combined when I had to replace all the clutch components. Never again, next time it is coming out as two separate parts. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper.
Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home M0XQS |
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19th Jul 2025 10:09pm |
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| tony.g Member Since: 25 Aug 2017 Location: uk Posts: 23 |
When putting the transfer box back onto the gearbox, it helps if you can get a set of hardened steel guide pins. These keep the t/box square and avoids damaging the oil seal.
Some use lengths of threaded bar. |
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19th Jul 2025 11:05pm |
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| paul 123 Member Since: 10 Jul 2022 Location: norwich Posts: 134 
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long bolts work better than threaded bar as the transfer box can bite onto the threads making it hard to slide on. with cutdown bolts put a little oil on them to help it slide into position. the threads are iirc m10.
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20th Jul 2025 5:47am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17868
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They don't need to be hardened (why on earth would they?), normal bolts with the heads cut off and with a slot for a screwdriver cut in work perfectly and replicate the genuine tool. As I recall you need M10 x 175mm, a minimum of two but three is better. |
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20th Jul 2025 8:15am |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 672  
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When I hat to replace clutch on our Disco2 TD5 I had removed gearbox and transfer box together. I have used big pipe placed on two stands through opened front doors and a rope puller to lift and lower the combo home for gearstick. Car was placed on 10cm high blocks of wood and combo was lowered on a steel plate on the ground, to pull be able to pull it out. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo
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20th Jul 2025 6:58pm |
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| julian Member Since: 17 Feb 2017 Location: Devon Posts: 183 
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I think anyone who does lt230 boxes in any number has a custom jack head.
I did not. It's heavy and doesn't sit flat on anything. We used ratchet straps bodged off bits of wood, up above in the body. I've got (unfitted) one of those high cap oil cooler things. I will certainly fit that before ever removing the lt230 again, as just having one flat on the bottom of it must make it a whole load easier. |
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20th Jul 2025 10:04pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17868
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There is a special tool available to get round this problem, although the price will put many people off. Combined with a decent transmission jack it makes the task relatively easy, and it is not difficult to make an equivalent. It can be made from wood if easier.
https://jlrequipment.service-solutions.com/ItemDetail?SKU=100-045 |
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20th Jul 2025 10:46pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 386
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I've done the job three times on a couple of Defenders and each time I have kept the gearbox and transfer box together as one unit. It's physically demanding and I doubt I'll ever want to do it again! I used an engine hoist through the passenger door. Using ratchet straps front and back to adjust the pitch if needs be. I like the idea of beheaded bolts as guide pins because getting the box close is not an issue, getting it right is a massive PITA! Having some guide pins to get your aim right for the final 6 inches would help immensely.
And whatever you do make you sure you don't forget to unplug the crankshaft position sensor...ask me how I know. |
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21st Jul 2025 11:07am |
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