 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Rust proofing my Puma |
 
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2408  
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Looks like you have done a great thorough job
If you want to do the inside of the chassis a pressure washer with a drain jetter attachment gives it a good clean. Then once dried out Bilt hamber Dynax S50, which comes in a large can with a 750mm long flexible lance, is great for protecting the inside of the chassis. |
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24th Jun 2025 11:32am |
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| jim4244 Member Since: 13 Apr 2014 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 958  
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Thanks Ian
I had some Lanoguard left over from a previous Defender and I have sprayed the internal chassis with this. As the inside of the chassis is not as exposed to the elements I’m hoping that the Lanoguard will do a better/longer job than when you treat exposed areas. The good creep properties of the Lanoguard should hopefully find its way into all the nooks and crannies. I’ll certainly consider the Dynax S50 though. Anything that offers protection from the rust worm is a good thing! Jim |
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24th Jun 2025 11:44am |
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| revd Member Since: 20 Apr 2024 Location: England Posts: 262
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Are the wheel-boxes steel on a Puma?
Neat job. As above I also use Bilt Hamber in the box-sections, door pillars and bulkhead |
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24th Jun 2025 11:45am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20883
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Looks good, lots of work too to get prep done first.
Try and keep a surplus can all the time, at least I do. That way, if for example you had the springs taken out, or any other component you can spray those concealed areas such as top of springs or chassis / frame spring seats and other components that aren’t easily accessible unless removed. Try and keep it off rubber if you can, but it’s not too bad with it, but ACF50. Definitely keep that away from rubber… Everybody has their own techniques etc, there is internal applicator straws as well etc, they are good from Rejel. I haven’t felt the need to redo mine in years, I might just need thinking about coming up but the finish if keep an eye on and components kept covered will last years and years. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___ ___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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24th Jun 2025 12:11pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 3197
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Good work.
l am astonished that LR didn't apply any rust treatments to the vehicle when new. What were they thinking, it's not as if the buyer was going to swap it for another after three years. Maybe it was too labour intensive as it would have had to have been done manually at the end of the production line. They probably thought "the customer will do it" Sadly, very few did. |
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24th Jun 2025 1:46pm |
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| revd Member Since: 20 Apr 2024 Location: England Posts: 262
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Could have been a profitable optional extra, long term owners would happily stump up say £1000 for rustproofing and a lot more use than extra speakers or metallic paint etc
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24th Jun 2025 2:33pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17823 
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I doubt it, more likely they simply didn't care! They knew well by then what the McGovern future model looked like. LR has never really done rust-proofing, although once upon a time the quality of paintwork was much higher. Mind you if they'd taken more care then there would be more good pre-owned vehicles to rebuild into absurdly expensive limited editions.... |
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24th Jun 2025 2:50pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3572  
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The tub is mainly aluminium, but there is a steel reinforcement plate (also a mud trap) under the stepped wheel arches. Not on the square arches. What concerns me is when galvanic corrosion starts setting in in between the metals, out of sight. Great job by the OP. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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24th Jun 2025 3:57pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3572
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JLR did not do that bad with the late Td5 and Puma doors….but everything else was left to be desired. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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24th Jun 2025 4:01pm |
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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 249  
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I’m not familiar with Dinitrol products what with my being on the wrong side of the pond so I can’t say yea or nay to what you have done. That said undercoatings that form a hard coating (dry to the touch) do not seem to be a good choice in the long run. They dry out and crack. This leads to moisture and salt getting behind the coating and staying there. If you keep your vehicle five years, who cares. It will “look” great with such a treatment. But, really, the corrosion process is actually being accelerated. I have seen lots of rusty hulks that were “undercoated” from new.
If you want real protection, a sticky, tar-like product that you check and touch up regularly works best. It is a f-‘n nightmare to do other work on though. Your mechanics will genuinely hate you. I use the spray on lanolin oil products you were finding expensive. I apply them annually. I make sure everything is up to snuff so no major work will be required for a month or two after application. I do my own work but am generally not too unhappy working on the vehicle after that. Yes, the expense adds up. If you truly are going to keep your landy a long time, it is worth it. Think about it first. If you have never actually kept a vehicle a long time before, it is unlikely you will do so now. If an engine replacement or major repair has led you to moving to another vehicle, same thing applies. YMMV |
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27th Jun 2025 2:33pm |
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