![]() | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Starting issue temp in red |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20886 ![]() ![]() |
Possibly faulty CHT Sensor, though you should get a DTC.
If it is faulty, the engine can run slightly richer than it should, and reduce MPG slightly. It would also possibly explain the temp needle issue. Of course this is just based on possibility. Obviously ensure the electrical grounds are all good, as that can cause a lot f strange issues too. There is the IPAC connector to the rear of the instrument cluster that could be loose, but less likely in my opinion. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___ ___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 2017 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I’ve not long changed the CHT when I replaced the cylinder head, hasn’t made a difference.
Good idea to check the grounds, I’ve often thought about the cluster affecting the AS10 but I’m sure I’ve read the immobiliser would light up? Possibly the PCM module? 2023 Defender L663 V8 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone) 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17823 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This was a fairly common problem some years ago, for some reason it seems less common now.
Check earth connections especially for the ECM, also check the main and starter relays have really good tight connections. Also have a search for the many old threads on the subject in this form, especially those mentioning the temp gauge going to the red. |
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Fifth Horseman Member Since: 08 Mar 2011 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 337 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
As Blackwolf says check the under bonnet earths, also check the main relay under there RH front seat. There was a Landrover document detailing this (SSM44410)
https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/u...dition.pdf https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/u...4410a1.pdf Defender 110 D300 X-Dynamic HSE MY22 Defender 110 Station Wagon 2011 (gone) Defender 110 DCPU 2007 (gone) |
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Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6675 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Have you got temperature needle in the red AND the battery warning light on AND no other engine warning lights (no glow, no oil light)?
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bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 2017 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks guys, a bit of reading tonight!
Martin, I’m not 100% sure, happens very sporadically. When in the move it will cut out for a second and then recover. When it happened the other day I’m almost positive it was needle in red and battery light on that’s it. Got these faults when plugged in today ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge 2023 Defender L663 V8 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone) 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20886 ![]() ![]() |
Is the alarm light working as anticipated so that the fob is synced?
There is in my opinion a few faults there, but commonly linked, so I’d tend to think ground related as suggested. Are the battery clamps tight, and voltages check out correctly at rest and when running? If there is a ground fault, or even a live loose connection then you can get some pretty extreme voltage fluctuations, that then in turn can trigger multiple DTC’s as can a loose connector. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___ ___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 2017 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
yeah the alarm light works fine, flashes when it should and goes out when ignition on
I've got a bit of time tomorrow to take a look before i got to Billing Friday. hopefully its an earth issue somewhere ![]() 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone) 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6675 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
My gut feeling is that your "main relay" is failing.
The temp gauge in the red and ONLY battery light on means the cluster isn't receiving CAN bus messages from the engine ECU, suggesting the ECU isn't running/isn't powered up. The main relay provides the primary power supply to the ECU, the switching on of this relay is done by the ECU based on an ignition trigger/sense feed. If the main relay doesn't close, the ECU doesn't get powered up and so no CAN messages are sent and you get the "default" cluster behaviour as above. If the main relay output drops out when driving, the ECU switches off and you get the cut out. This fault tallies: ![]() Click image to enlarge Replace the main relay, it's the one with 2 brown/light green wires, 1 brown/orange and 1 blue/red. I've had similar recently with the ignition relay ("window relay") not closing until the engine is running! ![]() ![]() |
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steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Malton Posts: 604 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Looks like the main relay to me. It provides power to the ECU when the ignition is switched on, it's under the driver's seat. Try with a fresh relay.
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