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| LANDROVER Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: EAST OF ENGLAND Posts: 232  
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MADTOM,
Thank you for your advice and help. I managed to code the replacement ECU and start my brothers land rover.... Mine still will not start, so it seems the ECU was not the problem. I have checked the Crank Sensor and including wiring it measures 1268ohms so I believe fine. I also can read the RPM on live data. I have fuel at the FPR and even checked the timing chain was ok and the plugs on the injectors. It is like no fuel is being injected. I sprayed aerosol into air intake and it tried to start... Seems strange it was running and driving along then cut out like being switched off...never misfired or anything was running strong until it stopped. I'm thinking maybe an injector issue now? Thank you for your help. |
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8th Jun 2025 8:39pm |
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| mrd1990 Member Since: 16 Aug 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 605  
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Unlikely be an injector issue as the chances of 5 failing at the same time is slim
The fact no error codes are logged suggests fueling, perhaps fuel pressure related e.g pump or fuel pressure regulator. I believe the pressure should reach around 4 bar where it goes into the pressure regulator. If its dropped to 1 bar you wouldn't be able to tell without a pressure gauge. Did you have any warning lights when it cut out? A CPS issue should give a red warning light. Some easily missed items to check and try if you haven't already - Cutout safety switch on bulkhead and associated wiring, it can be reset by pressing the top like it was a button. Also try disconnecting it, I can't remember if you need to jump the pins or not. - Check the plugs that sit above the bell housing on the side of the drivers foot well box for oil. - Try a dedicated earth from battery to ECU Whilst an issue with CPS should be logged on the ECU or present a warning on the dash.. don't rule out anything.. - Failing alternator/alternator diode can cause electrical interference which can cause issues with TD5s - Check the insulation on the crank position wiring right before the plug on the CPS side. The insulation had worn off on mine underneath probably against the bell housing, so I missed it on first inspection, engine oil had dripped onto it causing a couto cutout whilst driving. This did cause a red warning light. - Try another CPS known to be working, they normally have a spacer too! mine didn't at the tip had worn off, still worked though. |
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8th Jun 2025 11:41pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 857  
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I'm living with a sort of similar issue on my TD5, mine can cut out momentarily sometimes throws the engine light on....if so I get "noisy crank signal" on Nanocom, if on the other hand the engine cuts out and doesn’t put the light on I've found that removing the "main relay" under the driver seat and re-seating it in its (rather loose) relay base can give me a good few weeks with no trouble.....
I suggest looking closely at that relay, and make sure its as snug as it can be in the housing.... Ive also replaced the CPS, this didn’t really fix the problem, I've come to the conclusion that theres that much clutch muck in the bell housing that it occasionally interferes with the CPS |
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9th Jun 2025 9:23am |
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| LANDROVER Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: EAST OF ENGLAND Posts: 232
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The relay under the seat, I replaced all the relays and sockets a while back as I had intermittent cutting out.
The sockets were very corroded so replacing them and relays cured it. Also I fitted an earth direct from battery to underseat ECU earth post. The new to me ECU seems to say noisy crank in both defenders I tested it in.... neither had noisy crank faults previously I have no warning lights on dash. I have checked the impact switch under bonnet. Crank sensor seems fine after testing wiring and sensor I removed the fpr and cleaned the gauze filter Checked for any obstruction. I think a gauge to measure is next step though the diesel return was flowing so seems plenty of diesel pressure...also I would think that it would try and run if low pressure but badly.... Completely lost at the moment |
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9th Jun 2025 8:10pm |
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| LANDROVER Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: EAST OF ENGLAND Posts: 232
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The relay under the seat, I replaced all the relays and sockets a while back as I had intermittent cutting out. I think about 4 years ago and all looks good still.
I did swap relays at the road side to check also. The sockets previously were very corroded so replacing them and relays cured it. Also I fitted an earth direct from battery to underseat ECU earth post. I've never had a misfire or hesitation since doing this 4-5years ago. The new to me ECU seems to say noisy crank in both defenders I tested it in.... neither had noisy crank faults previously This test ECU ran fine when tested in another defender. I have no warning lights on dash, not did any appear when it stopped running. I have checked the impact switch under bonnet. Crank sensor seems fine after testing wiring and sensor I removed the fpr and cleaned the gauze filter Checked for any obstruction. I think a gauge to measure is next step though the diesel return was flowing so seems plenty of diesel pressure...also I would think that it would try and run if low pressure but badly.... Completely lost at the moment 😔 |
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9th Jun 2025 8:13pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 857
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It seems you have been very thorough....but my attention would for the time being remain on the TPS, consider the loom overlay from Empire tuning... I would also try to see if the TPS trigger on the flywheel was clear....I dont know if its a slot or a hole or indeed how many of them there are? got to be worth a try?
I think you are right in suggesting the TD5 will try to run on very low fuel pressure |
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10th Jun 2025 9:11am |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 671  
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I had twice problem with starter - it was turning the engine fine, but no start. When we pushed the car downhill, it started immediately. With new starter, problem were gone. When we opened the old starter, there were not any visible problem, probably some bad contact in starter rotor. This was car with manual gearbox. More funny was with autogearbox, as it was not possible to push start, so only another starter solution. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo
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11th Jun 2025 10:27am |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1280  
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The starter can affect the Crankshaft position sensor signal. The wires are close and the starter currents high. Apart from good separation I suppose maybe a failing starter can cause EMF that interferes with CPS signal.
I find the starters fail where the contacts burn out and these can be purchased aftermarket and changed very easily yourself. Obviously starters can fail in other ways too |
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11th Jun 2025 3:06pm |
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| LANDROVER Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: EAST OF ENGLAND Posts: 232
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Hey Everyone thank you for your advice.
I think that the starter is unlikely as it was running and driving when it stopped so the starter should not have affected it? It cut like electrical shut off. Clean cut out no misfire or warning lights. I guess I could tow start but I think that won't work...also I sprayed some aerosol into intake and it then tries to turn but stops immediately like no fuel. I keep thinking it's fuel issues but it's only occuring in the head itself. Just seems strange all 5 injectors are not producing fuel |
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11th Jun 2025 7:59pm |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 671
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Fuel - did you measure fuel pressure? I have one fuel pump working only partially - probably only first stage - Discovery 2 was running nice with just a little less top power (top speed dropped from 160kmh to 140kmh, but I normally drive only up to 110kmh). Only problem was after fuel filter change - not possible to purge the system again. with new pump it was in few minutes.
When I have some fuel related problems I measure power consumption of the pump - with current clamp meter or just as voltage drop over fuse, and than fuel pressure. https://www.d2bc.net/viewtopic.php?t=62029 - here is How to for the current measurement. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo |
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12th Jun 2025 6:53am |
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| mrd1990 Member Since: 16 Aug 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 605
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I'd rule this out since CPS interference would show up as logged error in nanocom or a red warning light, plus it happened when driving along, not under cranking. My money is on the fuel pump or pressure regulator not giving the injectors the pressure needed to spray diesel. Could also be something silly, such as the wiring for the safety cutout switch. |
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13th Jun 2025 3:20pm |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 671
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No fault in ECU with bad starter. For me it was also a surprise. I was prepased tho check the crank sensor signal with oscilloscope th look for any abnormalities. And the starter was turning the engine quite good. For me this was a big surprise. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo
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14th Jun 2025 10:34am |
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| LANDROVER Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: EAST OF ENGLAND Posts: 232
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I have measured pressure at the FPR. I fitted gauge to the temperature gauge port It measures 3.5-4bar. Even when cranking pressure remains at steady 3.5-4bar Is there anything I should check with diagnostics like injector balance etc Only thing to note really is fuel is quite black and the filter gauze in the head also was very black. No fuel in oil though 🤔 |
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22nd Jun 2025 3:10pm |
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| mrd1990 Member Since: 16 Aug 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 605
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Sounds like diesel contamination. Perhaps oil or microbial growth
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22nd Jun 2025 8:40pm |
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