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Johan_B



Member Since: 20 Sep 2024
Location: Gothenburg
Posts: 100

Sweden 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
An old thread I know but does anyone know the thread size on the nipples?
I am missing the TC facing one on the front shaft (still original). It would be great to be able to source simple parts like that from the local hardware store.
Post #1069138 5th Jun 2025 2:31pm
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Johan_B



Member Since: 20 Sep 2024
Location: Gothenburg
Posts: 100

Sweden 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
As I examined this UJ more closely today I felt a small play so it needs to be replaced anyway. Will order part during the weekend but the question is, do I keep the prop on the truck during the week or should I remove it and go in 2WD? I’ve no idea for how long it has been like this.
Post #1069269 7th Jun 2025 8:27pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20870

United Kingdom 
So long as you aren’t going through lots of water, in particular deep water, I’d leave it.
You can go 2WD with diff locked if you wanted to of course though. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___
____\We|Will|Win/___

____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____
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Post #1069291 8th Jun 2025 1:20pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5942

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Stay with prop attached. You be surprised how bad/noisy the drive is on a single prop.

I fitted a brand new UJ to a mates prop the other week. The quality was so good the nipple came out the UJ and we hadn’t even fitted it to the vehicle yet 😂😂😂

No quality parts were used 🤯🤯🤯
Post #1069305 8th Jun 2025 3:44pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2397

United Kingdom 
Johan_B wrote:
An old thread I know but does anyone know the thread size on the nipples?
I am missing the TC facing one on the front shaft (still original). It would be great to be able to source simple parts like that from the local hardware store.


I’m 99.9 % certain the prop nipples are a 1/4 UNF thread. If I’m correct an M6 can be used, but it will recut the thread.

Ps - cheap nipples can fail / be a real PITA to use, so get good quality ones not cheap Chinese rip offs Very Happy
Post #1069310 8th Jun 2025 6:08pm
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Johan_B



Member Since: 20 Sep 2024
Location: Gothenburg
Posts: 100

Sweden 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
So, I did the job last night. It was not as easy as the video above made it out to be. Re-watching the video now, I realize I didn't do it as suggested. I used the vise and sockets to push the cups through until I could grip the protruding cup. If the cups are cylindrical, which I assumed, this would not cause any harm, but if they are conical I might have done something stupid. Anyone knows?
Also when I could grip the cup with the vise, it was ridiculously hard to move and even hard to grip it enough to not just turn in the vise. In retrospect I should have cleaned the cups and lubricated them before I did this. But anyway, I doubt I would have had any luck by just using a hammer.

Assembly was easier but the joint was very stiff when finished. I could move it and there was no harshness but it took a lot of force. Is that normal for a new joint?

Refitting the prop in the vehicle I forgot to clean the mating surfaces. On the output flange there was a tiny amount of oil, can this effect the performance of the joint? Do I need to take it out again and re do it?

Sorry for all the questions but having seen what a failed UJ can do I am a bit nervous.

The car drives well, less noise and vibrations then before and another bit of slack in the driveline has been removed.
Post #1069561 12th Jun 2025 9:36am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20870

United Kingdom 
It’ll bed in. Thumbs Up _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___
____\We|Will|Win/___

____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____
_//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_
Post #1069584 12th Jun 2025 6:01pm
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