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| julian Member Since: 17 Feb 2017 Location: Devon Posts: 166   
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In an ideal world you would blast them, epoxy primer, and then a 2k top coat within the recoat window.
You don't say what is on them currently? If they have some rubbish black undercoat stuff, like all the other parts seem to, id go with the above, but, you will probably just want to apply another worthy undercoat over the rubbish black stuff and go from there. If they have a nice 2k finish on them already that's otherwise sound, but just the wrong colour, abrade, and then proceed with your new colour. |
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15th Feb 2025 12:44pm |
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| julian Member Since: 17 Feb 2017 Location: Devon Posts: 166
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Note that isocyanates are, despite what you tube may tell you, are dangerous.
UK regs specify air fed breathing apparatus only for commerical painters, but, obviously you can do what you wish in your own garage. ...but don't do it in a garage. Or any enclosed space. Regardless of what the print on your chosen, ill fitting, mask actually says! : ) |
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15th Feb 2025 12:48pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6180 
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Last set of genuine new wolf rims I bought from my dealer, the front face had a fairly good coat of black, the back was barely covered in primer.
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15th Feb 2025 8:08pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3547  
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No, since they are brand new, just flat them and paint.
Oslo is a metallic. So if your rims are black, good to go. If they are white, use a dark undercoat. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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16th Feb 2025 12:24am |
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| BobGFish Member Since: 09 Jan 2025 Location: Zug Posts: 30  
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I am about to do exactly the same. I have chosen raptor 1K wheel Paint in rattle cans. I have attached photos of how they look out of the box. Might give them a very light sand and away I go.
I am however unsure how I'm going to spray them and have some questions. 2-4 thin coats I think. Do I do these coats in short succession? say 5-10 mins between coats? or wait for full dry on each coat? Minimal coverage each coat? I guess I can only do one side at a time and it's ok to complete one side and then do the other several hours later? Do I also do the piece between the bead locks and also the where the tyre bead mounts? Thanks  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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8th May 2025 11:41am |
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| julian Member Since: 17 Feb 2017 Location: Devon Posts: 166
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Your product will have details in its datasheet, but its normal to apply a light initial coat, and let that flash off (turn from being fluid to being stable, but uncured - we are talking 20 mins or less, but the timing is not critical) and then apply the 2nd coat. The first coat goes onto your substrate, and, if you like, stablises, or normalises it, and then the second coat goes onto your first coat. Imagine you were painting a pile of sand - the first coat would go onto the sand, some bits may be absorbed quicker or slower, some sand might rise up, there may be some contaminants etc.etc. You apply this, let it flash, and then apply the 2nd coat to your, now normalised, first coat. You have a recoat window. If you apply the 2nd coat inside this window, then the two coats bind together. If you paint subsequent coats outside of this window, the hardened coat must be abraded again, otherwise you will get delaminiation (peel) There is no need or advantage to apply (n) coats, if the first two have provided the finish you desire. If you need to, do so, observing the above, but dont go into it intending to do so. Again, watch out for applying subsequent coats, outside of the recoat window, without properly keying the surface. |
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8th May 2025 12:24pm |
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