![]() | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Engine Warning Light Issues on 2015 Defender 2.2 Td4 - P2263 |
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hunting_defender Member Since: 14 Oct 2024 Location: Bludenz Posts: 21 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thank you for the instruciotns, digging into it this afternoon with a friend of mine - he is an electrical engineer, he helps me out!
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andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 717 ![]() ![]() |
Hope you get a result and don't forget to post your findings.. will be interested in how it goes..👍
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hunting_defender Member Since: 14 Oct 2024 Location: Bludenz Posts: 21 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Good evening,
Sure took notes ![]() I did measure out the pin‘s: - Actuator (C2519) to ECU (C0411) - Voltage of the 5 pin‘s - Actuator to ECU: all Pin‘s beeped, the green (GND VNTP) one was a little bit reluctant - Voltage: White (C2519-1) to Blue (C2519-2) 1,783 V Green (C2519-3) to Violet (C2519-4) 0 V Orange (C2519-5) to GND of the car 4,980 V When the engine was running and we hit the accelerator Orange (C2519-5) to GND of the car went up to 4,995 V and White (C2519-1) to Blue (C2519-2) to 1,886 V. Not quite sure why the green one was a bit reluctant, maybe because I couldn’t properly reach the pin. Does the voltage look normal? Anywhere to check? Best Regards |
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andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 717 ![]() ![]() |
If I was checking the voltages I would be going from the pins on the actuator to ground...not between the pins as you seem to be doing.. ie white to blue etc.. I'd be checking white to ground..
Here is what I'd expect..with engine running at tick over..and back probing them connector terminals.. Pin 5 white/orange...5v Pin4 purple/brown...2 to3 v, it will vary if you get someone to press the accelerator..and the actuator arm moves.. Pin3 green... 0v.. or close to that..it's the ground..so minimal voltage drop .. Pin2.. and pin 1 the blue and white motor drive wires.. the voltage on these will vary and may show up as a negative value , but the important bit is you see the actuator arm moving up and down as you get someone to operate the accelerator.. Was your continuity check done with the connectors disconnected from the two components.. I'd say not really necessary if your voltage readings and operation are correct. And if the components, ie actuator and ecu are not disconnected you could be checking anything, not just the wire connecting the two.. That's my thoughts.. Have you tried your new actuator yet? |
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hunting_defender Member Since: 14 Oct 2024 Location: Bludenz Posts: 21 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I also measured each pin to ground - similar values. The change in voltage was done that way.
I will do it again later today. How do you measure and check if the arm is moving at the same time? New actuator should arrive today, latest tomorrow! then I can check proper function! |
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andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 717 ![]() ![]() |
It's a visual check.. the actuator rod that connects to the turbo vanes actuation ring should move.. it is a rotary drive out of the back of the actuator and connected to the rod that moves the vanes.. you should see it moving..
That's what I was saying from the start.. in the video you posted it didn't appear to be moving.. if it doesn't move there is no turbo boost control.. If electrically all seems well but there is no actuator movement as you operated the accelerator then its likely damaged the drive in the actuator.. When you replace it have a look inside...you will likely be able to see the issue.. |
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hunting_defender Member Since: 14 Oct 2024 Location: Bludenz Posts: 21 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That is fully understood
![]() https://share.icloud.com/photos/007KN2825P9z1p8OLAmwvEWnA I took a video of the valve itself - seems fine to me! Let‘s hope the new actuator will do the trick! |
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