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hunting_defender



Member Since: 14 Oct 2024
Location: Bludenz
Posts: 21

Austria 2015 Defender 110 Other SW Orkney Grey
Engine Warning Light Issues on 2015 Defender 2.2 Td4 - P2263
Hi all,

I’m experiencing some issues with the engine warning light on my 2015 Defender 2.2 Td4 and wanted to share what’s been happening to get some input.

The first issue appeared last November with fault code P0048. The garage cleared it, and everything seemed fine for a while. However, recently the warning light came back, this time with code P2362. I cleared the code using my IID Tool, but the light came back shortly after driving again. Now I’m also seeing P0046 and P0047.

There’s noticeably more soot and a stronger exhaust smell than before. I suspect something related to the turbo system – maybe the turbo itself, a leaking hose, or possibly the EGR, MAP, or MAF sensors.

Someone pointed out it could be an exhaust leak around the turbo, possibly near the heat shield, which might explain the extra soot and wrong sensor readings. I checked the actuator visually and uploaded some pictures - video in the link below.

https://www.icloud.com/photos/#/icloudlink...jRf2Qvp7sQ

I’m currently planning to inspect the system more thoroughly for any obvious leaks or loose connections.

Has anyone here had similar issues? Any advice on what to check next would be greatly appreciated!


Thanks,
Hubert



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Post #1066250 25th Apr 2025 8:11am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2300

United Kingdom 
Have a look at the turbo actuator linkage, it is potentially sticking and needs lubrication. A search on here will show topics with pictures on how to test and lubricate the linkage

If that proves to be ok then look at the connector and wiring to the actuator, it can rub and chafe on the engine and cause short circuits.

If the two above are not the cause the actuator could be at fault, this would need some more specialist testing but a replacement is relatively cheap and easy to fit, you just need the correct one for a 2.2 which is different from a 2.4

There are several topics on the above if you do a search.
Post #1066256 25th Apr 2025 11:01am
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hunting_defender



Member Since: 14 Oct 2024
Location: Bludenz
Posts: 21

Austria 2015 Defender 110 Other SW Orkney Grey
Thank you Ianh - I will do and keep you posted! The hose below the turbo also seems to have a crack at the top!
Post #1066269 25th Apr 2025 1:02pm
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 717

United Kingdom 
A quick look at your video pretty well confirms a non functioning actuator..you should see movement as the accelerator is pressed even at no load as such.... whether that's because the actuator isn't working or the vane actuation ring is stuck can't say , but if the actuator ring is seized it's likely the actuator will have a goosed motor drive anyway...so either way you will need a new actuator and the mechanism on the turbo freeing up if that was the initial issue.....
Post #1066284 25th Apr 2025 3:32pm
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hunting_defender



Member Since: 14 Oct 2024
Location: Bludenz
Posts: 21

Austria 2015 Defender 110 Other SW Orkney Grey
Thank you for the update. As far as I heard there is no replacement for my model - I would need to change the whole turbo??

Td4 with the ford dt224 engine.


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Post #1066359 26th Apr 2025 10:42am
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 717

United Kingdom 
Can't speak from experience of replacing one, but idbe surprised if you can't obtain a turbo actuator, I would have thought the main decision was is it cost effective compared to a replacement turbo..
Good luck.
Post #1066361 26th Apr 2025 10:51am
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hunting_defender



Member Since: 14 Oct 2024
Location: Bludenz
Posts: 21

Austria 2015 Defender 110 Other SW Orkney Grey
Well then I guess I will be looking for a new turbo, anything also that should be changed when I throw out the old turbo?

Do you have any experience with a turbo system clean?
Post #1066362 26th Apr 2025 10:53am
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 717

United Kingdom 
Ive never replaced a turbo or an actuator, but if i had to id be making sure that whatever caused the failure of the turbo was sorted.. yours may just be a seized actuator mechanism??
While it off you may be able to inspect the dpf/cat side and the intercooler and intake hoses ...
Main thing will be oil and filter changed and making sure the turbo is well oiled to start with..the drain to the sump should be clear..
Post #1066373 26th Apr 2025 1:29pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2300

United Kingdom 
You can get an actuator for the turbo on the 2.2. Please see https://www.defender2.net/forum/post853115.html#853115 for details
Post #1066427 27th Apr 2025 1:17am
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hunting_defender



Member Since: 14 Oct 2024
Location: Bludenz
Posts: 21

Austria 2015 Defender 110 Other SW Orkney Grey
Did another test drive today — the ongoing code seems to be P0048-12, which then triggers P2263.
After clearing the codes, another error popped up: P123B-22.

At this point, everything suggests that the turbo actuator is failing, either electronically or mechanically.
Anybody else tackled P0048?
Post #1066588 29th Apr 2025 9:41am
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 717

United Kingdom 
I mentioned above your actuator appeared stuck in the vid clip you posted.....if that is the case then its not failing..it is failed👍
So until that issue is sorted I don't really see the sense in worrying about further fault codes ..
Post #1066594 29th Apr 2025 11:34am
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hunting_defender



Member Since: 14 Oct 2024
Location: Bludenz
Posts: 21

Austria 2015 Defender 110 Other SW Orkney Grey
Hi andy,

took the actuator out today - waste gate works properly- so you are right, failed actuator.
Any chance to change just the actuator or must it be synchronised to the turbi and I have to change the whole turbo?

any way to check the Hella actuator?

thank you



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Post #1067033 4th May 2025 8:41pm
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 717

United Kingdom 
Hi.
.Ian posted a link above about changing an actuator above , and i don't think there is any need for having to code it in , it should just be a matter of replacing...
I sort of thought yours might be sticking turbo vanes..in one of your photos the actuator looked very dry and rusty, but if you are sure the vanes are nice and free , it must be the actuator its self, or it's supply?
Mine on the 2.2tdci is a 5 wire connector...
Ive played around with it on a running engine and from memory, three of the wires are for the position sensor, ie a supply, an earth, and the signal...
The other two wires (slightly thicker ) are connected to the motor, and are pulsed with a voltage, depending on what way the motor has to move..
I'm not in a position to check mine atm, but I may have some scope files on the laptop which will remind me what voltages I found on the actuator pins..
I'll check later on..
I'm sure I did post some details on another thread a while back when I was playing around with the turbo
Post #1067048 5th May 2025 6:17am
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hunting_defender



Member Since: 14 Oct 2024
Location: Bludenz
Posts: 21

Austria 2015 Defender 110 Other SW Orkney Grey
thank you - that's what I tried to find out yesterday. Would be great to see how you did it!

I tried to disconnect the ECU and meassure out the cable, but apprently the socket on the ECU was too tight to get it off without breaking the locking mechanism. Will give it another try today!
Post #1067049 5th May 2025 6:59am
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 717

United Kingdom 
Ive had a quick look at the laptop and old scope traces..
I pretty sure you should see these voltages at the turbo actuator connector pins by back probing them..there should be no need to go to the ecu, unless there is an issue with the voltages below, but it can pay to check them with a small load rather than just open voltages..(a small 5/ 10 w bulb with a fuse in line...)

There should be a pin with 5v..
A pin with 0v... the ground..
And a pin with a voltage that varies as the actuator moves, but likely to measure 2 to 3 volts with ign on..
The larger two wires will be at 0 volts until the actuator is required to move ( ie. You press the accelerator ) then the voltage on either one will rise to up to 15v ..
You should be able to do those checks with a multimeter.. 👍
Or you could just plug in a new actuator and see how it goes😁
Post #1067057 5th May 2025 9:01am
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