 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > It’s bleeding…… |
 
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410  
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Yup that is right. The only addition is that if you are doing a full bleed then you should start with the NS rear, then OS rear, then NS front and finally OS front wheels.
It is worth checking your brake servo and vacuum pump as well, just to make sure they are working as they should. Just to give you an indication. I have just replaced all four calipers, pads, servo and master cylinder plus full bleed. The effect is a positive pedal and braking that leaves you hanging in your seat belt. Best braking I have ever had in Miffy and she's never had bad brakes. |
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25th Jul 2022 4:03pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 725  
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It is interesting you should ask this question, as I think that there are some slightly differing approaches which people take when manually bleeding with a volunteer pumping the brake pedal.
In your description, you stated: Press down and up on brake until no more air bubbles, press down on brake peddle, tighten nipple, release brake. I was under the impression that you were supposed to use the following sequence: (1) Open the bleed nipple (2) Press down on the brake pedal, ejecting air and brake fluid through the bleed nipple (DOWN!) (3) Tighten the bleed nipple (4) Release the brake pedal (UP!) (5) Return to (1), until no air is being ejected through the brake bleed nipple. It would if anyone else could clarify if it is necessary to close the bleed nipple between each pedal stroke please, to avoid drawing air back into the system? 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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25th Jul 2022 9:13pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1840 
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Hufflepuff, that's my understanding.
I thought I'd just comment on the Eezibleed thing. I have one, and I know I'd been happy with it in the past, but the last time I was doing anything on the Defender I just wasn't getting anywhere. I opted (more £) for a pressurised bleeding kit, with a bigger reservoir and a hand pump - sealey I think. Not unlike the sort of thing you might use for gardening. I think it paid for itself first time out. It means you can just set up, with fluid and pressure in the big bottle, and just work your way round. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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25th Jul 2022 9:19pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1909  
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It’s my understanding that using a pot with fluid in and the end of the tube submerged in fluid negates the option of closing the nipple, if there were no fluid in the pot and the foot brake came up there is a high chance air would be sucked back in if the nipple remained open.
That’s how I look at it? The Ezbleed kit kind of worked but very very slowly I don’t think it had enough pressure to push through ? 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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25th Jul 2022 10:02pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 725
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I have the Sealey pressurised system myself Donmacn, but I've not used it yet, so was pleased to read your positive statement on it.
https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/563720632...ing-system I used to use a Vacuum system, similar to: https://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-brake-bleeder/ but the one time I used it to bleed the clutch, I found it pretty hopeless - it just kept pulling air through continuously. I think the fitting onto the bleed nipple actually allowed air into the system, I couldn't see where else it was coming from! 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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25th Jul 2022 10:54pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5568 
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The OP mentioned doing with engine running, which I don’t do. Engine is off when I do it. But when I change fluid on the Defender, I start by sucking out the old from the reservoir with a syringe, then fill with fresh fluid and then start opening each bleed point. And if just a fluid change I just allow gravity to take effect and the new fluid appears. Then to finish off a couple of pumps, then a five or six pumps with bleed shut, hold down, release bleed. I think that emptying res, then gravity save loads of pumps on the pedal which is hard/pointless work for the master cylinder.
Most garages use a vacuum bleed, rather than pressurising system. The basic models of these can be bought cheaply. |
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26th Jul 2022 10:19am |
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| mwestcrew Member Since: 09 Dec 2019 Location: South Warwickshire Posts: 234 
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When bleeding normally doesn’t get a good firm pedal try this.
At each corner after bleeding using the process that others have mentioned above, close the nipple and then pump the break pedal five or six times until firm, maintain firm pressure on the pedal. Then quickly crack the nipple open and the pedal will obviously drop to the floor then close nipple quickly. 2011 130 Utility Body 2005 110 Van |
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26th Jul 2022 10:05pm |
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| MalteseRover Member Since: 02 Jul 2013 Location: Gozo Posts: 137 
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i am currently trying to bleed my 2003 110 all discs and no ABS system.
I tried alone, master cylinder gravity bled with all unions loose. and the rest of the system with manual bleeding by pumping the pedal and holding it down with a block of wood while I open and close the bleed valve. I have also tried gravity bleed on all four corners. I would try clamping all the flexi hoses to check pedal but have no decent clamps. Pedal travels about 1 and a half inch but always stays at the same place. This is the first time for me on bleeding this systems. I am used to bleeding the series 3 which involved adjustments here and there at wheels and pedal but I do not think this system has got any adjustments involved. thanks. joseph |
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4th Sep 2024 3:25pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5568
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If you are not getting air, and the pedal is firm, but you feel that the pedal is too low, adjust the servo to master cylinder pushrod, rather than keep bleeding system.
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4th Sep 2024 8:21pm |
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| MarkBrown Member Since: 03 Oct 2022 Location: Mid Wales Posts: 409 
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All I do is half fill a beer bottle with fluid, connect a rubber pipe, open the bleed screw, pump out about half of the reservoir then tighten the bleed screw. Go round until all corners are done. If it’s really dirty go round again until the fluid comes out clear. A see through pipe and bottle helps as does an assistant, then you can watch for bubbles in the pipe. I’ve also done the other methods, but it doesn’t seem to make any difference, so long as you get rid of the air and old fluid. As said adjusting the push rod to servo rod makes a lot of difference to the feel, but not too much or the brakes will drag, get hot, expand and stick on.
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4th Sep 2024 10:39pm |
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| MalteseRover Member Since: 02 Jul 2013 Location: Gozo Posts: 137
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The system was completely rebuilt (new s.steel pistons and seals and new MC and Servo and half of the solid pipes replaced as well as flexis.
I am starting to wonder if some of the old pistons were seized in the calipers, would it help create a firmer pedal with little travel? I guess i am over thinking. i gravity bled them all day today and the reservoir was topped up more than 15 times from minimum level so I guess there should not be any air in it. I noticed few particles passing but no major air bubbles. just one instance I was thinking about adjusting the rod on the servo but i will try bed in the pads and new discs before I mess with the adjustment. thanks. |
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5th Sep 2024 8:11pm |
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