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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3301
Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
1. Yes broken. Fan will be a bit out of balance and may shorten the water pump life.

2. Yes, appears to be filled with oil. It should be dry, so in that case probably the selector shafts O rings have failed. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1034027 7th May 2024 12:33am
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cykoh85



Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: Selangor
Posts: 126
Malaysia 1990 Defender 110 200 Tdi SW Santorini Black
Alright, so I can just fix the O-ring by removing all the gear levers there, correct?

Also, I have another question about the track end rod: can I simply replace the dust rubber instead of the whole track end rod? (please see photo).


Click image to enlarge

Thanks for your information.
Post #1034146 8th May 2024 4:46am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3301
Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
There is a bit of dismantling to replace the O rings. There are some (I think) cotter pins that you need to drive out of the shaft and and a plug removed to get the shaft out of the housing. Below is a link to the gearchange lever assembly, but unfortunately does not show the shaft.

https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...r_53520#28


As for the ball joint boots, yes there are replacements. The best ones are made of polyurethane (which will not crack like the standard NBR), like from Gwyn Lewis.

https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/polyure...ur-gl1173/ 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1034671 14th May 2024 7:28am
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cykoh85



Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: Selangor
Posts: 126
Malaysia 1990 Defender 110 200 Tdi SW Santorini Black
Ok, but what you mentioned about the selector shaft O-rings is not the same as what is in the link below (please see the link), right?

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/can...se.215418/

OR this one is the correct link about the shaft (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/278308-r380-leaking-selector-shaft-o-ring-frc4951.html) ? but not sure which part as Author did not highlighted it.

Ok, thanks for the polyurethane link Bow down
Post #1034796 15th May 2024 4:53am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3301
Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
The link from AULRO is a good one and exactly describes what your problem could be.

The shaft is marked as 12 in the schematic, 3rd pic.

When I re assembled mine, I just applied a small amount of grease. It seems like it was dry from the factory, but had no wear in 128kmiles with lots of gear changes. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1034797 15th May 2024 5:31am
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cykoh85



Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: Selangor
Posts: 126
Malaysia 1990 Defender 110 200 Tdi SW Santorini Black
Ok, as long as not need to remove the gearbox, that would be great.

It's much clearer now.

Thanks for the information and tips. Very Happy
Post #1034834 15th May 2024 2:54pm
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cykoh85



Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: Selangor
Posts: 126
Malaysia 1990 Defender 110 200 Tdi SW Santorini Black
Hello Dinnu,

Do you have any ideas or suggestions on how to remove this drop arm (photo attached)?


Click image to enlarge

Can I use the 10 ton hydraulic gear puller? or better use the angle grinder to cut it?

I want change the power steering box seals.

Thank you.
Post #1036685 6th Jun 2024 3:25pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5777
United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
The two ears or lumps on the side of the arm are where the puller pulls against on the arm. The bolt of the puller pulls against the main threaded shaft.

A tool like:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182255260689?it...BMusCg4f1j



Click image to enlarge 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #1036695 6th Jun 2024 4:05pm
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cykoh85



Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: Selangor
Posts: 126
Malaysia 1990 Defender 110 200 Tdi SW Santorini Black
Hello excossack,

Thank you for your information. So, this is strong enough to remove the drop arm without taking off the power steering box, right?

I have used a three-jaw puller before, but it didn't seem strong enough. I'm not sure if one of the ears or the lump is uneven.
Post #1036833 8th Jun 2024 9:59am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3301
Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
A 3 jaw will not work well. I have used a 2 jaw, a hefty one, albeit with box on a bench vice with success.

Mind that although replacing the seal in situe might be doable, I found that it would be extremely difficult with the sector shaft still in place. See the overhaul thread I made sometime ago.
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic79246.html 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1036837 8th Jun 2024 10:57am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5777
United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
cykoh85 wrote:
Hello excossack,

Thank you for your information. So, this is strong enough to remove the drop arm without taking off the power steering box, right?

I have used a three-jaw puller before, but it didn't seem strong enough. I'm not sure if one of the ears or the lump is uneven.


This is designed for the job and doable while the steering box is still in/attached to the car 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #1036900 9th Jun 2024 11:29am
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cykoh85



Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: Selangor
Posts: 126
Malaysia 1990 Defender 110 200 Tdi SW Santorini Black
Dinnu wrote:
A 3 jaw will not work well. I have used a 2 jaw, a hefty one, albeit with box on a bench vice with success.

Mind that although replacing the seal in situe might be doable, I found that it would be extremely difficult with the sector shaft still in place. See the overhaul thread I made sometime ago.
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic79246.html


Ok Dinnu, thank you for your sharing, I will go thru it.
Post #1037064 11th Jun 2024 4:15am
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cykoh85



Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: Selangor
Posts: 126
Malaysia 1990 Defender 110 200 Tdi SW Santorini Black
Hello excossack,

Oh, I see. Ok, perhaps I should try it and see. Thanks!
Post #1037065 11th Jun 2024 4:17am
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cykoh85



Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: Selangor
Posts: 126
Malaysia 1990 Defender 110 200 Tdi SW Santorini Black
Hi Dinnu,

Do you have any ideas about a rear wheel (passenger side) axle oil leak? I just noticed it this morning, and I crossed a river yesterday (never crossed water at that level before).

Could it be an axle breather issue rather than a hub seal or stud seal?

If it's an axle breather issue, how do we check if it has been blocked?

Thank you.
Post #1037314 13th Jun 2024 2:58pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3301
Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Crossing a river and gear oil leak from hub should not be related, and probably a coincidence. Unless diff oil was low, water got inside and the oil level is now high enough to leak!

Do you have drum brakes or disc brakes? If the latter, it is very easy to mistake a secondary (slave) cylinder leak with hub seal. So ensure it is gear oil first.

It is easy to check breather in case it is blocked and pressure is building inside the axle. On the longer side of the axle tube there is a banjo bolt. Undo it, note the 2 copper washers on top and bottom of the banjo, and the blow through the tube to ensure it is clear. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1037325 13th Jun 2024 4:03pm
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