 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma snorkel water ingress |
 
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| BogMonster Member Since: 05 Feb 2008 Location: Stanley Posts: 394   
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I have a 2015 2.2 with what I think is a Mantec "plastic jobby" type snorkel (I bought the vehicle second hand and it was already fitted).
The other day I went through a series of not very exciting water splashes (flooded road maybe 6-8" deep, doing 10-15mph so nothing major) and I later found that the air filter was wet. Not seriously - but wet enough. What are the normal water ingress points on a 2.2? It clearly didn't go in through the top of the snorkel so there must be a serious design flaw somewhere in the system if it's letting in water that easily. I wouldn't have expected the water I went through to trouble a standard vehicle. On the old 300Tdis I used to fit Safari snorkels as I could and did make those 100% waterproof - those replaced the badly designed inner wing pipe but it looks from the Mantec fitting guide that there are no replacement parts inside the wing so I guess it uses all the standard pipework? I didn't see it being fitted and have never fitted one of these so it is new territory but I guess there is a good waterproofing technique by now, but can't immediately find anything on here. I don't need to make it submersible but I certainly need a brief splash through deep water to not be a problem. Thanks. --- 2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi |
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9th May 2024 11:30pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1844 
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For the 2.4 and 2.2 Puma the air intake ducting from the standard wing side air intake to the air filter box is appalling, it’s in two parts that just slot together with no seal between them and just slots into the airbox with no seal. So water can get in via that route. It is also highly restrictive. The airbox also has rubber duck bill valves to let water out, they can stick and get blocked or they can fall out, leaving another water entry point.
Your RAI / Snorkel likely attaches to this side wing air intake, again if this is not sealed correctly water ingress can happen. Nuggetstuff in Australia made a nice replacement pipe from airbox to side wing intake, unfortunately Wayne has retired and closed the business. However other solutions are available. Have a read of this https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic46581.html?highlight=nugget If you don’t mind spending a bit of cash then a full sealed airbox and air intake solution can be purchased from Allisport . If properly sealed with your Mantec snorkel it will prevent water ingress from flooded roads. Noting to stop heavy rain getting in via the snorkel top , a top mounted cyclonic filter will do that. https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic89374...=allisport And now for the perfect but most costly solution. An Allisport airbox, connected to a Nakatanenga wingtop RAI which comes with a sealed large bore pipe to the airbox and a cyclonic filter at the top, but those 2 items are going to set you back over £1000 |
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10th May 2024 12:00am |
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| 100inch Member Since: 15 May 2012 Location: Brunswick Posts: 408  
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https://www.nakatanenga.de/en/vehicle-equi...ing.?c=312
That is the answer, as it connects straight to the airbox. Got this setup for years and removed all restrictions inside the airbox. You will also experience better drivability. m |
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10th May 2024 1:52am |
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| BogMonster Member Since: 05 Feb 2008 Location: Stanley Posts: 394
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Thanks for the replies. I'll check out the options but I was hoping not to spend a fortune as I don't really need deep wading capability, I just want to stop splash ingress as has just happened. Also the Allisport option seems to be Td5 only and the Nak one looks like it is LHD only?
I've not looked yet as I am away from home and it's too wet out, but does the standard pipework lend itself to something like bandaging up with self-amalgamating tape or something similar? --- 2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi |
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10th May 2024 10:33pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 325 
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I put my ducting together with a good wipe of non setting mastic on the ducting jounts..
Apart from the joints there are a couple of drains.. One on the section of ducting that fits to the wing joint and another on the air box which need checking to make sure the rubber mushroom or valve is in place👍.. |
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11th May 2024 6:13am |
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| BogMonster Member Since: 05 Feb 2008 Location: Stanley Posts: 394
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Haha, blackwolf your description reminds me of that of a helicopter "a million parts rotating rapidly around an oil leak waiting for metal fatigue to set in"
I'll have a proper look at it when I get back to a dry garage in a week or so, and meanwhile avoid deep water... Thanks for the replies. --- 2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi |
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12th May 2024 12:42am |
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| BogMonster Member Since: 05 Feb 2008 Location: Stanley Posts: 394
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Following on from this ... I have an idea that I wanted feedback on.
Having looked at the snorkel I think it's probably getting in where the wing pipework joins the airbox as that is quite a loose fit. I could seal it up but I'm still unconvinced about the joint where it goes out through the wing. The Safari snorkel for a 300Tdi has a flange on the inside and a short flexi pipe that goes from that. What are the views on fitting a Safari 300Tdi variant, and finding a new bit of flexible pipe to run from the snorkel flange straight to the airbox so there are only 2 good watertight connections? I haven't looked at it from a 'packaging' point of view and I daresay the flange on the snorkel is a different size to the one on the airbox (pretty sure it is smaller). Has anybody else looked at this, and/or what am I missing? --- 2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi |
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19th May 2024 9:42pm |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 648  
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I have often wondered if it could be done using the V8 version with the longer hose. Never got round to looking at it in detail.
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19th May 2024 9:54pm |
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| BogMonster Member Since: 05 Feb 2008 Location: Stanley Posts: 394
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That looks to have a LOT of potential... ---
2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi |
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22nd May 2024 12:38am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1844
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Just to answer your questions. Allisport do 2 versions of their airbox for the 2.4 and 2.2 Puma. These are recent developments. https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic89374...=allisport Nakatanenga do two versions of their RAI for RHD vehicle’s. One for a standard setup, one if you have an external roll cage fitted. https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic53507...anenga+rai. If trying to keep costs down and using your existing RAI you can purchase a new circular hose from existing airbox to side of wing intake. Then source or have fabricated a side wing adapter to connect the airbox hose to the wing, then seal between that and your RAI. |
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22nd May 2024 10:59am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam Posts: 688 
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For the Naka kit, there are also two types of entry into the vehicle, one is from the side intake and the other from the top of the wing where the fresh air vent to the HVAC is. Is there an advantage of one over the other?
If going with the wing type, what happens to the fresh air intake? |
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24th May 2024 5:28am |
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| Zed Member Since: 07 Oct 2017 Location: In the woods Posts: 3099 
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As I understand it top entry is less restrictive when using an RAI. Whether that makes any real world difference is up for debate and depend on many other factors. Basically, given a choice you aim for the straightest shortest route possible.
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24th May 2024 7:54am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5455 
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If you are talking about the heater/cabin air intake, that is on the other wing. |
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24th May 2024 8:52am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16999 
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On RHD vehicles the cabin air intake is on the opposite side of the vehicle to the engine air intake so there is no problem using the wing-top hole for the latter. I'm not sure about LHD vehicles.... I haven't compared the pipework sizes between the two Nak options (wing-top vs wing-side) but if a pipe the size of my Nak wing-top system came out of the side it would make the vehicle wider to the extent I could envisage the pipe getting damaged, plus would (in my opinion look daft. The wing-top version looks aesthetically right to my eye, though clearly others may disagree. The wing-top Nak system that I have uses a larger bore of pipework than any other RAI system I have seen, and this really does make a difference. It also is one of the few to provide a decent-quality and highly effective centrifugal pre-filter. |
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24th May 2024 8:57am |
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