↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Puma (Tdci) > Front wipers stopped working
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 2 12>
Print this entire topic · 
jim4244



Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 649

England 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
Front wipers stopped working
Hi all

Pressed the windscreen wash to clean the screen, wipers made a sweep to their 12 o’clock position and then just stopped. Checked fuse and it is still intact. Little bit of movement on both wiper spindles so they are not seized. Am I looking at a failed wiper park switch problem or has the motor given up the ghost?

Had a few instances in heavy rain where the wipers didn’t alway park correctly along with a blown fuse every now and then.

Jim
Post #1034414 10th May 2024 3:35pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Cragster69



Member Since: 15 Jun 2021
Location: Scotland
Posts: 174

Scotland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Cairns Blue
Hopefully it's the Park Switch

This link has a really helpful guide to replacing the park switch on a TDCI, yours being a 300TDI I would think it would be even simpler Whistle

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic57823.html Craig.

“Don't believe everything you read on the internet.” ― Abraham Lincoln

www.scotgrc.co.uk
Post #1034418 10th May 2024 4:36pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19677

United Kingdom 
As above, I think it’s least likely to be the motor, if it’s not the park switch then possibly the rack and wheel boxes.
You shouldn’t have much trouble, try the park switch as mentioned, failing that the rack and wheel boxes, after that only leaves the motor. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #1034420 10th May 2024 5:15pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
jim4244



Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 649

England 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
Thanks for the input guys 👍

I’ve ordered a Lucas wiper park switch so will let you know how I get on when it arrives. Dare I say it…. Replacement looks straight forward….🧐

Jim
Post #1034459 11th May 2024 12:31pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19677

United Kingdom 
On a Puma it’s a nightmare, you can get at it just, but for easy access the entire dash comes out.
Both are a pain, I did mine last year.

A word of warning, to everyone else, at this time of year everything gets dry through the summer.
Don’t forget to often release the wipers for the glass so they don’t get stuck and also use the wash wipe fairly periodically.
Not only will that treat the windscreen, especially useful if you use Rain X, but it will keep the wiper wheel boxes and spindles free from getting sticky and seizing.
When they are not used for a long time the grease can harden, then the spindles can seize and after or during the summer when it rains, when you want the wipers, possibly in a situation they are critical, they can pack up!
If they get stuck up the screen on a sweep then you’ve got trouble imminent, and you shall likely be able to probably free them for a short period, by nudging them into action with wiper on, but is a sign they need an overhaul imminently before they seize completely. And though it’s only a job to replace them every ten years or more thankfully!
It’s not an ideal job to have right in the middle of the winter, unless you have a garage, workshop or are happy to pay a considerable labour fee.
But as I mentioned, periodically use the wash and wipe, because when they (the wiper spindles, wheel boxes) sit for weeks and months that’s when they get stuck and the grease hardens.

When I did mine, the wheel boxes, rack and arms were replaced, the motor was absolutely fine and I replaced the park switch for good measure.
When the wheel boxes and rack get sticky and the grease hardens up the motor works harder than it should, the wiper sweep and motor should be quite, quiet when in good order.

Provided the wipers are decent, many these days are not that great. Rolling Eyes Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #1034465 11th May 2024 1:41pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Chugaboom



Member Since: 02 Mar 2022
Location: Sussex
Posts: 25

England 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Aintree Green
Just for info, had to have mine replaced last week, box, cables etc, didn’t fancy taken the dash out and have a great local landrover garage.

It came to £400 parts and labour .
Post #1034515 12th May 2024 9:09am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
hornet



Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Western Europe
Posts: 335

There is also a video on this, if it is just the switch it looks relatively simple. LHD-vehicle and in german.

Post #1034827 15th May 2024 12:17pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
hornet



Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Western Europe
Posts: 335

custom90 wrote:
[...]
A word of warning, to everyone else, at this time of year everything gets dry through the summer.
Don’t forget to often release the wipers for the glass so they don’t get stuck and also use the wash wipe fairly periodically.
[...]
When they are not used for a long time the grease can harden, then the spindles can seize and after or during the summer when it rains, when you want the wipers, possibly in a situation they are critical, they can pack up![...]


I can only expressly support this, when mine stood around dry for 3 weeks I first had to move the wipers with gentle force and spray a lot of penetrating oil into the shaft (under the cover cap) to keep the system running. I was really holding my breath!
Post #1034835 15th May 2024 2:55pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19677

United Kingdom 
Definitely, and you can guarantee that it will be before an autumn MOT for example just to spice the situation up. Rolling Eyes
Oh and probably raining as well for a few weeks at that time of year. Laughing Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧


Last edited by custom90 on 15th May 2024 3:27pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1034838 15th May 2024 3:23pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16953

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
TO quote one of my own posts from 2011 (wow, what a long time ago that seems to be)!:

blackwolf wrote:
I finally got around to sorting out my wipers today!

Firstly I can now confirm from personal experience that it is possible to remove the motor completely without taking the dash out, but it is a bit fiddly putting it back in again. With hindsight as it is not at all difficult to take the dash out (and only takes about 1/2 hour) it might be easier to do this. It is probably not possible to change the wheelboxes without removing the dash, but you don't have to disturb them to get the motor out. I chose to do it without removing the complete dash because I didn't want the hassle of removing the steering wheel and column switchgear, which has to come off to remove the complete dash.

In case anyone is interested, here's what I did (note this is a RH drive vehicle):-

1 ) Remove both wiper arms from their spindles (a small puller may be needed if they've been undisturbed for a long time)
2 ) Remove the centre panel from the dash (radio out, undo two screws, pop the four clips and pull the panel forwards, disconnect all switches and the clock, lay panel aside). If you want to avoid having to recode the radio, plug it in again and lay it on top of the dash (it will remember the code long enough to allow this).
3 ) Pop the LH tweeter out and disconnect the connector. Put tweeter aside.
4 ) Remove all the screws holding the dash panel to the bulkhead (on both sides). This includes removing the grab handle (you don't need to remove the thing that isn't a glove box though because those screws only go into the plastic dash) and the trim panel under the instrument panel, the instrument panel itself. If anyone is especially interested I can give more details about which screws to take out. The whole dash is now free and can move.
5 ) Pull the LHS of the dash forwards until you can see the wiper motor.
6 ) Remove the demister pipe to the LH side window outlet (one of those little plastic pop-in fixings to take out)
7 ) Remove the LH windscreen demister outlent complete with pipe (another of these plastic things).
8 ) Unplug the connector on the wiper motor.
9 ) Unscrew the nut securing the wiper rack conduit to the wiper motor.
10) Remove the two screws holding the wiper motor to the bulkhead, and remove the motor. The flexible rack will pull out of the conduit as the motor is extracted.

The motor can then be dismantled, cleaned of old grease (in mine the old grease had the consitency of soap), reassembled and relubricated, and a new park switch fitted (note if it is only the park switch needed you don't need to take the motor out - you can get to the switch at step 5 above).

Before I reassembled I lubricated the spindles until they could spin freely between finger and thumb, and as I inserted the flexible rack back into the conduit tube I applied generous amounts of Castrol LM since there was very little grease on the rack or wheelboxes.

As you reinsert the rack, it should pick up the spindles (you'll see them start to rotate), but if it baulks just have an assistant twiddle them from outside.

Reassembly is then the reversal of the removal procedure, but be advised that getting the two screws that hold the motor to the bulkhead in place is a bit fiddly since you have to hold the motor, the rubber pad that fits behind it, the stirrup that clamps it, the screw, and the screwdriver all at once in a confined space!

The whole job took about 1 1/2 hours, and the wipers are now much quieter and smoother than ever before. They no longer give the impression that they are going to fall off or conk out at any moment!
Post #1034839 15th May 2024 3:24pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19677

United Kingdom 
And very well, and articulately explained too Blackwolf. Thumbs Up

I’m glad I did mine last year, and not this year.
They are working A1 now, nice and quiet too. Very Happy Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧


Last edited by custom90 on 15th May 2024 4:18pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1034840 15th May 2024 3:34pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Scotm



Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 647

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
BW - Point 10 - I recommend only removing the outboard bolt and loosening the inner one. The inner is a Censored to access to get back in.
Post #1034841 15th May 2024 3:43pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
jim4244



Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 649

England 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
Bloody hell! Spent 1.5 hours fitting the new switch and nothing…

I’ve checked that the wires are correct. Checked the fuse again - all good. Now looking at the relay.
Are any of the other relays on a 2.4 Tdci the same? It has one of the “99” relays fitted for the wipers which isn’t making any noise at all when the wipers are operated?

Jim
Post #1034854 15th May 2024 6:09pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16953

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The "relay" isn't actually a "relay" as such and is different to everything else on the vehicle. The high speed wipe isn't switched by the not-a-relay and the motor should run on high speed even with the not-a-relay removed completely.

If you connect receptacles 2 and 5 in connector C0303 (the "not-a-relay" socket) the wipers should function fully and normally as twin speed, self-parking wipers, just without the intermittent and wipe-on-squirt features. This makes it very easy to diagnose a park switch fault as opposed to a timer (not-a-relay) unit fault.

For more info on how it works you might want to read my post here
Post #1034876 15th May 2024 9:48pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16953

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Incidentally I notice that on the 2.2 Puma there is an additional relay in the wiper circuit which will entirely kill the power to the front wipers in the event that the inertia switch operates. There is no equivalent relay on the 2.4 and on these the power is protected only by a fuse.

I presume that this is to prevent the wipers taking your eye out after a bad crash in a 2.2.

I don't think I have a diagram for the 300TDi unfortunately so cannot check that, however I would be surprised if it had a similar relay.
Post #1034886 16th May 2024 8:29am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 2 12>
All times are GMT + 1 Hour

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums