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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 667   
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That empty threaded hole would be perfect for a permanent live feed... Don't forget to fuse your new circuits ππ»
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4th Mar 2024 8:35pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19579 
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As above, I seem to remember that thread is M8, but donβt quote me on that exactly. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. β½οΈπ’οΈπ¨βπ§π§°βοΈ RED, WHITE & BOOST! π¬π§
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4th Mar 2024 9:00pm |
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| Dorothy Member Since: 14 Sep 2020 Location: Rotherfield Posts: 16 
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Cheers guys. That was what I was hoping. There are in-bumper DRLs so the live to the battery needs to have an in-line fuse near to the battery end?
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4th Mar 2024 9:14pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 796  
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At or as close as possible to the battery terminal. Any part "upstream" of the fuse will evoprate in case of short circuit.
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4th Mar 2024 9:20pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19579
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Exactly as above, typical rule of thumb is no more than 20β from power source aka the live battery post in this case.
Probably for your purpose around 6β in-line is fine. (In-line ATO fuse holder is ideal). Just make sure the fuse is rated above the current load, but below the max wire current rating. Probably a 5A fuse is okay for low loads live LEDs. Something like 1mm2 automotive thinwall would be sufficient in some 6mm internal dia split convoluted tube maybe, or in unsplit tubing if you want a challenge to get it threaded through. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. β½οΈπ’οΈπ¨βπ§π§°βοΈ RED, WHITE & BOOST! π¬π§ |
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4th Mar 2024 9:30pm |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1351 
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The Blue Sea terminal post fuse holder 5023 is a great way to add upto 4 fused cricuits, directly to the terminal / mega fuse holder.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5023/ST_B...Fuse_Block No drilling to mount the fuse block. No wires from battery to fuse. Compact and tidy. 3 spare fuse positions below,  Click image to enlarge |
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5th Mar 2024 5:11pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2040 
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Now that IS neat
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5th Mar 2024 9:27pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19579
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That is nice, my set up is a bit different, but, for the OPβs purpose that would be ideal.
Nice and safe too. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. β½οΈπ’οΈπ¨βπ§π§°βοΈ RED, WHITE & BOOST! π¬π§ |
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5th Mar 2024 9:46pm |
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| Dorothy Member Since: 14 Sep 2020 Location: Rotherfield Posts: 16
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What is particularly neat is I have that battery and the Blue Sea Fuse block. I was struggling with the planning of where it could go and see you have sensibly switched the positions on the positive so it has clear space for the block to sit! Excellent. Assume on the neg I can actually remove the nut and place the ring below, then refasten. 2001 Defender Special Vehicles TD5 Hardtop (Ex Scottish an Southern) Side Lockers, Side Hatches - Poorly chassis and bulkhead. (SORNd) 2013 Defender Puma Utility XS |
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15th Apr 2024 6:15pm |
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| Dorothy Member Since: 14 Sep 2020 Location: Rotherfield Posts: 16
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Do love the Russian Roulette nature of owning a newer Landy, sold to me by someone who, let's say, 'possibly wasn't aware of a number of issues with the vehicle...'.
Re-connected the rear spotlight only to get some speaker interference from the Focal Tweeters. Wiring is quite close. An inspection of the high level rear stop light found three of the tabs disconnected.  After some light soldering and adding that Blue Sea block, I can reconnect the DRLs which were just cut and left in the engine bay. Particularly like the cabling for the rear light which at a guess would be 10-15m of cable. Maybe a former owner was planning on doing a Geroge Clarkeque extension to the rear??
Onwards! 2001 Defender Special Vehicles TD5 Hardtop (Ex Scottish an Southern) Side Lockers, Side Hatches - Poorly chassis and bulkhead. (SORNd) 2013 Defender Puma Utility XS |
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15th Apr 2024 6:22pm |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1351
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If I recall correctly, the nut on the battery terminal is conical and clamps the terminal, making it difficult to add rings. I've got one single, light duty, negative to the terminal. The ring sits on top of the original nut and is held by another nut on the top. All other added negatives go directly to the chassis or body. I'd be reluctant to add more circuits or a heavier duty one directly to the battery, it's a bad design as it is and doesn't clamp well. Chopping the terminal off and fitting a normal type would be one option, but it's easier to add a negative bus bar inside the seat box and connect that to the chassis ground point. |
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15th Apr 2024 10:30pm |
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| mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2870 |
Do Mobile Centre stock these? Cant find it on the website. Andy 2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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16th Apr 2024 7:13am |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1351
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Mobile Centre website has 5024, a kit with fuse holder and bus bar.
mudstuff.co.uk has the separate fuse holder 5023 and kit 5024. |
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16th Apr 2024 9:38am |
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| mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2870 |
Perfect, ordered the kit from MC. Thanks Andy
2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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16th Apr 2024 9:45am |
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