|Home > Tdi > what radiator for 300tdi?
Member Since: 04 May 2019
So the Nissens one is basically identical to the stock images. It feels unnervingly light. I've changed to constant tensions clamps because the hose stubs are now plastic and the screw hose clips have the potential of cracking the if done too tight. As I found out when tightening the plastic top bung which cracked in half! Will replace with a brass one. Another major risk is snapping the smaller bleed spigot whilst tightening the upper oil cooler hose with a spanner. One of the top mounting studs doesn't reach all the way through the frame for some reason
In all, I'm only mildly satisfied, but have had to act quickly. The only saving grace I think is that the aluminium might be more corrosion resistant than the copper/brass? I'll keep ahold of the used one for future recore options. As you can see, it's gone from some fins missing to this in one year:
Click image to enlarge LR Workshop
Find a Defender's history and spec: https://defender.lrworkshop.com
|21st Nov 2023 4:42pm
Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
My local Radiator shop, which has been going for a long time told me unfortunately Nissens are no longer the quality they once were either
|22nd Nov 2023 1:04am
Member Since: 03 Dec 2016
my dad went to the local rad place, and got an Alu one, and he has no trouble at all. Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back
Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!
|3rd Dec 2023 2:52am
Member Since: 25 Feb 2013
The Nissens one in my defender has withstood everything the Australian outback has thrown at it
|12th Feb 2024 6:54am
| I Like Old Skool
Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Can I just say....?
When I got my 94 tdi nearly 10 yrs ago the rad was looking pretty tired (probably original?)
When it failed (shortly after I put fresh antifreeze in) I did some deliberation about the recore/brass core OEM/ali options and in the end plumped for the cheap Paddocks rad as it was well, ...... cheap.
TBH, swapping out a rad is a very, very simple job and the rad failure mode is usually to give plenty of warning (if you watch these kind of things) like damp patches, falling coolant level, puddles under a parked vehicle etc. If a rad only lasts 5-10 yrs instead of 20+ yrs what is the major hardship? If you are on top of your Defender maintenance/check regime as you should be then a leaky rad should be spotted and addressed long before it becomes an issue.
|15th Feb 2024 11:07pm
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