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mediamab

Member Since: 01 Dec 2021
Location: Matlock
Posts: 58

Hope this isn’t a dumb question haha but these are the exhaust manifolds. I have a receipt that says the whole system was replaced with stainless system at a cost of 1k about 5 years ago. Does stainless steel tarnish like this? If it does I assume I can polish them clean again?

Click image to enlarge

15th Jan 2024 10:13pm

trickster5000

Member Since: 12 Dec 2015
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 490

I’ve got a bit of a mongrel of exhaust bits on my 90 V8 due to the conversion, when I first fitted it I had a largely 300tdi based setup with the big centre box and small tailpipe box, I then changed the centre box for a smaller silencer I found in some scrap metal and welded the right flanges on and I’d say it’s a good balance all-round.

It’s got a decent bark when you put your foot down and a nice burble on idle but it doesn’t drone at medium load/cruising speed.

Click image to enlarge Matt.

'89 90 CSW with a 3.5 V8 conversion (WIP) - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic46809.html

15th Jan 2024 10:40pm

mediamab

Member Since: 01 Dec 2021
Location: Matlock
Posts: 58

Ah ok so yeah maybe just a smaller silencer could be the sweet spot then. Think I’m gonna stay away from a full straight pipe. Found some videos on YT, they sound great but I can’t imagine an hour drive in one!

15th Jan 2024 10:51pm

mediamab

Member Since: 01 Dec 2021
Location: Matlock
Posts: 58

Only part of the silencer ha but obviously quite a bit larger to the one you adopted!

Click image to enlarge

15th Jan 2024 10:52pm

Chicken Drumstick

Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 548

mediamab wrote:
Hope this isn’t a dumb question haha but these are the exhaust manifolds. I have a receipt that says the whole system was replaced with stainless system at a cost of 1k about 5 years ago. Does stainless steel tarnish like this? If it does I assume I can polish them clean again?

Click image to enlarge

Those look like mild steel. Usually ‘full’ exhaust means from the down pipe back. Not including the manifolds.

16th Jan 2024 9:37am

Chicken Drumstick

Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 548

mediamab wrote:
Only part of the silencer ha but obviously quite a bit larger to the one you adopted!

Click image to enlarge

That looks like stainless. Note the smooth surface, even though some is heat discoloured.

You have some choices to replace. You either need to find or make up a section with the flanges, so you can bolt it back in. This will probably require welding. The other option would be to cut the flange of the pipe either side and then use a flared section to rejoin. Both would work. The flange is probably the better approach, but will need you or someone to be able to weld.

In terms of silencers. A smaller “bullet” one will work or indeed something like a cherry bomb. A cherry bomb is just a compact glass pack silencer, usually painted red.

Other smaller silencers can be glass pack too. Or you get chambered silencers. They will sound different. A glass pack is normally more crackly sounding while a chambered one tends to have a deeper more pronounced tone.

Jetex sell silencers or have a loom on eBay eg
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335178630189?mk...media=COPY

Remember to check your pipe diameter. The silencer can have bigger and use some step downs. But don’t go smaller as it will reduce gas flow.

16th Jan 2024 9:45am

donmacn

Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

TexasRover wrote:
Don't do it.

I just bought a P38 4.0 and the PO fitted an expensive "performance" exhaust, which I already factored in changing back to stock. It's loud and well exhausting and embarrassing. The drone is always there and you find yourself holding back driving through the IKEA parking lot.

Just changed it back to stock this weekend and it's much better.

Hah! Snap.

I've lived with this for a while but my intention is definitely to change back to a centre silencer when I can find the time and inclination.

I'm probably 60/40 on it. 30 - 40% of the time it can bring a smile to my face; most of the time I wish it was just a little quieter - but I do like the rumble of a V8.

I've found myself (probably idly) wondering how hard or expensive it would be to get a switchable exhaust - calm and controlled for when that was needed;howling and wild when not...... but that probably won't happen! Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

16th Jan 2024 10:56am

mediamab

Member Since: 01 Dec 2021
Location: Matlock
Posts: 58

Thanks so much everyone! This is all so useful.

The eBay link for the muffler looks a good option. Unfortunately welding isn’t a skill I’ve tried but I assume if I take measurements of the pipes, the distance between the pipes with silencer removed etc then someone should be able to provide / fabricate the pieces quite easily?

With the headers, is there any value in going stainless? I need to remove them and replace bolts and gaskets in the hope they’re the cause of the tapping noise I get when engines hot.

16th Jan 2024 7:34pm

mediamab

Member Since: 01 Dec 2021
Location: Matlock
Posts: 58

I assume a kit such a tho below requires more than just to straight pipes to couple together? Ie welding still required?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385466852053?mk...media=COPY

16th Jan 2024 7:38pm

Chicken Drumstick

Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 548

mediamab wrote:
Thanks so much everyone! This is all so useful.

The eBay link for the muffler looks a good option. Unfortunately welding isn’t a skill I’ve tried but I assume if I take measurements of the pipes, the distance between the pipes with silencer removed etc then someone should be able to provide / fabricate the pieces quite easily?

With the headers, is there any value in going stainless? I need to remove them and replace bolts and gaskets in the hope they’re the cause of the tapping noise I get when engines hot.

An exhaust shop should be able to fab up something with the correct ends. Either drive the vehicle down, or just take the silencer to them with the new one and ask them to build the ends to match the other. Obviously matching by eye might be hard, so fitment may require a little work, unless you get them to do it. I'd have thought most custom exhaust places would be favourable to a cash in hand deal for a small job like this.

Years back I removed the rear silencers on my Jag XJ-S V12 and had a local company bend some straight pipe to match. One of the best mods I ever did to the car.

16th Jan 2024 7:47pm

Chicken Drumstick

Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 548

mediamab wrote:
I assume a kit such a tho below requires more than just to straight pipes to couple together? Ie welding still required?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385466852053?mk...media=COPY

Ive not used a clamp like this before. But it should work, assuming you the correct diameter, it would be instead of the flange.

16th Jan 2024 7:48pm

mediamab

Member Since: 01 Dec 2021
Location: Matlock
Posts: 58

Yeah I’ll explore local places (haven’t lived here that long ha) but sounds like finding the right replacement and then getting someone to do the simple fab to match will work well and suit my wallet too!

16th Jan 2024 7:50pm

mediamab

Member Since: 01 Dec 2021
Location: Matlock
Posts: 58

Chicken Drumstick wrote:
mediamab wrote:
I assume a kit such a tho below requires more than just to straight pipes to couple together? Ie welding still required?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385466852053?mk...media=COPY

Ive not used a clamp like this before. But it should work, assuming you the correct diameter, it would be instead of the flange.

So really if I had two straight pipes then it should be a straight swap? (I don’t currently but I could cut them down)

16th Jan 2024 7:52pm

mediamab

Member Since: 01 Dec 2021
Location: Matlock
Posts: 58

Ah actually looks like that’ll still need welding. Seems to be a bunch of none welding solutions but feel like I’d rather it all be done right!

I did come across the below - which appears to be the only full kit. But whilst would be an upgrade to stainless wary of it’ll help bring out the rumble ha

https://www.paddockspares.com/da4236-exhau...ts-wi.html

16th Jan 2024 8:07pm

Chicken Drumstick

Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 548

mediamab wrote:

With the headers, is there any value in going stainless? I need to remove them and replace bolts and gaskets in the hope they’re the cause of the tapping noise I get when engines hot.

If you do take the headers off, I would be interested in buying them.

Although if I'm honest, stainless is more about looks than anything. Obviously should last longer too.

16th Jan 2024 8:09pm

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