DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Any ideas of stick for arcwelding chassi?

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Any ideas of stick for arcwelding chassi?

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

Defendertomten

Member Since: 19 Aug 2020
Location: Avesta
Posts: 48

2000 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Coniston Green

Any ideas of stick for arcwelding chassi?

Im about to weld the new rear crossmember on . But first i have to repair a bit on the rear last part of the chassi.
What weld sticks type for arc welding (dont really know the english word for it) would be the best? My magwelder is not that functional and out of gas so I have to use the arc welder. Somebody wrote earlier that its 2mm thickness chassi.

I have to fabricate the last "c" part i think. Like 20cm in from the rear.
What steel type is it? Have not seen that as a repair part for sale.

Another question about chassis; I have noticed that aftermarket chassis are not
constructed as original with two "c" welded togheter. Just cut plates welded in the corners. Are the strength and the flex the same as original due to the construction? Land Rover owner since 2003
2008 Disco3 manual
2000 Defender 130 td5 snorkel warn m6000

23rd Aug 2023 12:28am

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3214

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

I have used E6013 rods. I cannot recall if they were 1.6 or 2mm though, but I think the former. You really need to hold the rod when new, as it is so flexible. I did that with an inverter welder, but in the past I welded a Lotus Elan chassis, also 2mm, with an old transformer type of welder.

Although the main chassis rails are 2mm, the Defender chassis has a lot of internal reinforcement, these are in the form of angle bars spot welded in the corners of the chassis rails, effectively making it 5mm. But I think this stiffening is also the cause of the severe internal corrosion as it traps moisture.

Most aftermarket chassis are made of of 3mm steel. I have no doubt that they are as stiff and strong as the genuine, but if I would need one, I think I would go for Marsland (most expensive too), which I believe source the basic chassis from GKN, the original manufacturer. But it is more a cosmetic thing. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

23rd Aug 2023 6:20am

Defendertomten

Member Since: 19 Aug 2020
Location: Avesta
Posts: 48

Thanks for the answer😁
I have seen some reinforcement in the rear as a half pipe cross the section. I guess i have to remove and reweld it when repairing the chassis end.
Are there parts of rear ends for repair available? Half c-sections? Othervise a nearby garage that repairs old cars may fabricate one for me. Land Rover owner since 2003
2008 Disco3 manual
2000 Defender 130 td5 snorkel warn m6000

23rd Aug 2023 12:26pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3214

Most would fit a crossmenber with either short or long extensions as it makes the replacement much easier. Of course there are also cases where rear most part of the chassis rails are also rotten, so not better alternative.

I only replaced once a rear crossmember (and I hope it will be the last one to), but since it was for a family member, we wanted it to be as good and look as nice as possible. So we ordered only the basic crossmember, https://www.paddockspares.com/kvb000290-td...nised.html . This does not include any extensions. It is also missing the triangular webs that are welded between the top surface of the rear crossmember outrigger and the top of the chassis rail, but were easy enough to fabricate from 2mm galv sheet. The tub had to be removed to reach all weld positions.

Some pics after job was almost done.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

23rd Aug 2023 12:52pm

Defendertomten

Member Since: 19 Aug 2020
Location: Avesta
Posts: 48

Nice😁. I bought all the parts as triangular plates and the small square one as prefabricated. I did not measure for real how far in the end of the crossmember should be though. But its not hard to se the old welds.
The quarter weld on chassie or shorter with flanged extensions that one should stick over and weld seems to be a real moisture trap though. I didnt want that so i went for the crossmember only. And does not look factory style either. I have owned my y2k 130 since 2004 and have no plans to sell it. Land Rover owner since 2003
2008 Disco3 manual
2000 Defender 130 td5 snorkel warn m6000

24th Aug 2023 8:57am

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT + 1 Hour

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum