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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 115

Germany 
blackwolf wrote:
Waka56 wrote:
... What does the actuator actually do? ...


The actuator, under ECM control, alters the angle of the static vanes in the turbine part of the turbo, and by so doing adjusts the speed of the rotor to alter the effective boost. By this means the boost pressure can be adjusted largely independent of engine speed and exhaust gas flow, with the particular result that high boost pressures can be obtained at low engine speeds. Similarly when power is not required, the boost pressure and hence fuel demand can be reduced.

In the 13 years I have owned my Defender I have had two problems relating to the turbo performance. The first was caused by the linkage in the turbo jamming in the "no boost" position, with the result that the actuator could not shift it. I can't remember the fault codes, but the effect was immediate and very significant, no boost, negligible power (made more alarming by the fact that I was just about to start the climb up Haldon Hill with a 3-ton trailer at the moment of failure). Disconnecting the link from the actuator and turbo and waggling the operating lever on the turbo sorted this out, and it hasn't recurred. Note that the vane operating lever should move so freely it feels as though it is broken and doing nothing. I think that fitting a catch can to the engine breather circuit and blanking the EGR probably both prolong the life of the turbo.

The second issue I had was caused by one of the sense wires in the harness from the actuator to the ECM chafing through on the engine, which resulted in the actuator immediately moving to the full boost position and staying there whenever the ignition was on. This has two interesting effects, firstly the engine power is impressive since full boost is present all the time, and secondly the induction noise (especially as I have a large-bore RAI) is extraordinary, like rolling thunder (reminded me of a Vulcan at full climb with afterburn)!


Thanks Black wolf Thumbs Up Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1021843 19th Jan 2024 11:34pm
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 115

Germany 
I removed the spring to put it back on again. It seems like the actuator might be toast, and at its idle position the boost might be a bit more open than normal. If anyone can check their actuator idle position that'd be nice. I think I'll just get a new one. Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1021862 20th Jan 2024 9:56am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1768

United Kingdom 
This topic may be useful if replacing the actuator. It’s for the 2.2 so part numbers will be different but I expect it’s a very similar process for the 2.4 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post853115.html#853115


Here are the details from member LandRoverAnorak ( 2.2 2013 puma 110 )

LandRoverAnorak wrote:
For some time now, my Defender has been suffering from a strange intake-related noise, almost like that of a dump valve fitted to boy racer hot hatches, and occasional power delivery hiccups, which were explored in this thread a few weeks ago. I even took it to my local independent LR garage, who couldn't find anything wrong. Anyway, as a bit of a gamble I decided to replace the turbo actuator, which seemed to be a likely suspect for the problem and so far, so good!

The actuator is located on top of the turbo on the right hand side of the engine and is relatively easy to access. It's secured with three torx head countersunk bolts through the turbo casting and is connected to the acuating rod for the vanes with a small circlip. The latter has a slot in the end to make it easy to remove with a small flat bladed screwdriver. There is also a large multi-plug that needs to be disconnected by squeezing the tabs on each side.

The old one removed showing the connector to the actuating rod:


Click image to enlarge

The new one prior to installation. The original is a Hella part whilst this is obviously a pattern part, purchased from eBay. The significant number when finding a replacement is the 'G-72' stamped on the side, which also exists on the Hella unit under the dirt:


Click image to enlarge

With the original unit removed I was able to check that the linkage was free and also add a bit of lubrication for good measure:


Click image to enlarge

And the new unit bolted into place:


Click image to enlarge

The whole job only took about half an hour to do and was quite easy. The results were immediately obvious with much smoother power delivery in first and second gear and no odd noises from the air intake. A definite result!
Post #1021871 20th Jan 2024 11:34am
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 115

Germany 
For the price, changing the actuator for a new one will probably be what I go for. Too many little problems to live some doubts around. Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1021880 20th Jan 2024 1:11pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19578

United Kingdom 
You may as well change it in this instance, it could well have been what was causing issues in the beginning hence the barn fix with the spring previously done.

I know what the noise is people talk of the induction noise issue, it sounds like a jet engine spooling up in a way then often goes after a couple of minutes, I had it once or twice just after starting up and driving away when cold. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #1021894 20th Jan 2024 2:18pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19578

United Kingdom 
Oh forgot to add…

Looking at those pics LRA kindly did the write up for, if that’s a 2.2 the EA to turbo linkage is different to the 2.4, that I do know. It’s a very similar set up but the an actual linkage is different but the mounting pivots more or less are the same I think. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #1021897 20th Jan 2024 2:24pm
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 115

Germany 
Yup, I have the 2.4. Gonna order tonight Thumbs Up

The noise is nearly gone, not sure what fixed it, but I'd say the new oil, or the new diesel.. Maybe the MAF.. Laughing Laughing Laughing Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1021928 20th Jan 2024 7:15pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19578

United Kingdom 
Maybe the spring being removed stopped the noise. Whistle Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #1021929 20th Jan 2024 7:21pm
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 115

Germany 
Its back on, did not want to risk the turbo going crazy xD
The error is still on, don't worry, I'm not going anywhere. Next on the list will be the whippers, the light inside that does not turn itself fully off anymore, the blinkers that are going crazy, the direction that is not direct, the clutch/gearbox, and much more haha Rolling with laughter Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1021930 20th Jan 2024 7:24pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16881

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
That spring is likely to do more harm than good, I suggest you remove it.
Post #1021931 20th Jan 2024 7:38pm
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 115

Germany 
Just ordered the actuator, gonna test drive it without the spring until then, you guys win Wink Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1021933 20th Jan 2024 7:59pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19578

United Kingdom 
Take it with you just in case, but I’m sure you can kiss goodbye to the auxiliary spring for good very soon.
You’ll probably find the performance to be much better! Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #1021939 20th Jan 2024 9:05pm
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 115

Germany 
So, I removed the spring a couple of week ago, and replaced the actuator today with no difference at all. After a short drive on the motorway the engine goes into limp mode, until then the car runs like a dream.
So p0234 still there, rattle still there.. Could a P0234 (turbo overboost) have anything to do with a faulty EGR? My airbox is also not sealed properly, the top part is a bit broken.. I also heard that EGR could create a rattle, two birds with one stone would not be too bad Whistle Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1023551 4th Feb 2024 5:53pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19578

United Kingdom 
The EGR, can make noises when driving, of which I seem to remember is usually a problem as it should only do self cleans etc when turned off. If it’s making a noise when driving then it’s usually sticking, so yes, that’s not good. It can cause a slight sound that sounds like a scraping noise.
And it can be known to have phantom DTC’s, caused by another component.
The EGR isn’t too difficult to change, just a bit of a pain, but the EGR isn’t that cheap which isn’t so good. Rolling Eyes

A quick google comes up with this:


Click image to enlarge


Do you have a pic of the airbox damage?
Mine also has a little bit of damage on the edge, but, as long as there is a good seal that’s all that matters especially on the lid as that is unfiltered air ingress and there should be no air leaks at all beyond the air filter.
The filter lid, must have a perfect seal upon the air filter seal the lower air box isn’t quite so important.
The lid of mine has a little piece cracked off of the edge of the lid, the seal is fine so I’m happy with leaving it as it’s all sealed. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #1023587 4th Feb 2024 9:36pm
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 115

Germany 
Thanks, I already have the new egr, just could not fit it last time.. will have to try again.
I do not have a picture, but those two things that are supposed to seal the back part are broken, only the 2 "front" clips are holding it closed.


Click image to enlarge


And no, I do not hear anything directly from the EGR, not even the self cleaning once turning off the car. Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1023592 4th Feb 2024 10:00pm
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