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Gareth



Member Since: 12 Dec 2011
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 1038

England 2003 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Oslo Blue
Yes, I did give it a go trying to get the ends of the spring into the housing bushes, but there is just not enough room to get much purchase on it.

I think I will only need to bleed the clutch? or is it a shared fluid reservoir? (too wet outside now to go and look) 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy
1968 S2a 88 aka Bob
2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged.
Post #153842 5th Jul 2012 10:25pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5749

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
The clutch fluid is on its own and not shared. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #153865 6th Jul 2012 7:58am
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RRUK
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Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2017

United Kingdom 
I am going to do this to mine, I just priced up the parts with Rimmer Bros, Britcar, and the prices are SO low now?

Rimmer does it for £20.14

Britcar does it for £17.68

This is a no brainer! 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol
Post #162692 17th Aug 2012 7:49pm
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Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
Just ordered the bits from Rimmer Bros. As you say, no brainer at that price. The retaining clip that goes into the pedal is the part that has changed the price so much - listed in the LRO article at £19.92. Genuine part now costs £2.13! Bit of a difference there. Wonder why that is? 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
Post #162698 17th Aug 2012 8:31pm
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RRUK
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Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2017

United Kingdom 
(You have a Tonga green Defender! My favourite LR green ever, my last Range Rover was Tonga, I absolutely loved it, looked brilliant when shiny (almost black in some light conditions) and then really purposeful when dirty) 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol
Post #162701 17th Aug 2012 8:44pm
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Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
Can anyone who successfully managed to do this without disconnecting the clutch pedal from the master cylinder explain how they managed to compress the spring?! I have done just the same as Land Rover Anorak and spent well over an hour trying to get the new spring into the bush on the pedal and I just can't quite get it right. I've put a block of wood in the footwell against the transmission tunnel, and then used a long screwdriver to lever the bottom of the spring up the back of the pedal with the tip of the screwdriver sitting on the block of wood. I can get within a couple of mm of the spring going into the bush, but every time the spring skips off the screwdriver. It's very frustrating!

I took the top of the pedal box off to have a look at disconnecting the pedal from the master cylinder, but I don't feel confident about taking that apart. Looks like it's very easy to lose the nut down into the pedal box.

Any help greatly appreciated! Thumbs Up 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
Post #163505 21st Aug 2012 4:41pm
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Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
Well, I have found clutch pedal mod nirvana! And it came courtesy of our Australian cousins - a vital piece of information that is missing from our pages on this subject. PUT THE SPRING INTO THE PEDAL BUSH FIRST!! Then, once it is in, fully depress the clutch pedal and chock it with a piece of wood across the footwell (or get an assistant to hold the clutch down). You can then use a pair of needle nosed pliers to position the two loose ends of the spring into their respective bushes. Piece of cake - took 2 minutes. I should have done a little bit more googling before making a start and spending all afternoon messing around with it.

I hope this will be helpful for those Td5 owners who are yet to undertake this modification, follow this method and it really is an awful lot easier! Thumbs Up 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
Post #163521 21st Aug 2012 5:21pm
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RRUK
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Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2017

United Kingdom 
The parts arrived today from Brit Car, and I hope to do this mod over the weekend, reading people's posts it sounds like removing the pedal is a good idea. 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol
Post #163690 22nd Aug 2012 1:13pm
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RRUK
Site Supporter


Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2017

United Kingdom 
I have asked the forum if someone can scan the pages from LRO for us to use for this. 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol
Post #163693 22nd Aug 2012 1:15pm
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6510

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Why not ask for some photos rather than asking someone to copy a magazine? Confused  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #163711 22nd Aug 2012 3:08pm
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RRUK
Site Supporter


Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2017

United Kingdom 
Cos the instructions are also needed for us numpties Laughing

When I do mine I will do a How-To. 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol
Post #163712 22nd Aug 2012 3:15pm
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6510

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Not belittling LRO, but I wouldn't assume it's absolutely correct.  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #163714 22nd Aug 2012 3:17pm
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Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
RRUK, don't know if you saw my above post, but I did this literally yesterday and after spending hours fiddling with the spring got it fitted in just a couple of minutes with the correct technique. There is absolutely no need to remove the pedal from the master cylinder. First remove the four screws along the bottom edge of the dashboard, underneath the steering column and remove the metal retaining strip that holds the rubber footwell matting in place. With this removed, you can pull the rubber matting away from the underside of the dash enough to access the existing clutch pedal spring. I used a small screwdriver threaded through the hook of the spring to lever it out. From there it's mainly obvious, fit the bushes to the clutch pedal housing (existing holes on either side) and also the 'U' shaped bush to the slot in the back of the clutch pedal arm.

The really important bit, and where I went wrong yesterday, is to fit the spring into the bush in the back of the clutch pedal BEFORE fitting it into the two holes in either side of the clutch pedal housing. Once the spring is clipped into the bush in the clutch pedal arm, fully depress the clutch and chock it with some wood. Then you can use some needle tipped pliers to clip the two loose ends of the spring into the holes in the bushes in the pedal housing. This last bit is a bit fiddly as you need to put a lot of pressure on the pliers, but it is possible and much, much easier than taking the whole pedal assembly apart. There's no need to do anything in the engine bay, it can all be done from the footwell. Hope that helps and good luck! 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
Post #163755 22nd Aug 2012 5:40pm
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daviec1



Member Since: 30 Nov 2010
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 246

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Bonatti Grey
OK, decided to do this mod. Ordered the parts from Rimmers yesterday afternoon - they were here by 10.30 this morning on a normal delivery service Thumbs Up

It having actually stopped raining here in the West of Scotland Shocked took advantage & trotted out armed with parts, drill, pliers grips & various instructions & diagrams from here.

30 minutes later done - but here's the thing.

The holes on the pedal brackets that the spring ends locate into will NOT accept the bushes - no way, no how, never.

The spring itself makes very little appreciable difference to the clutch. Indeed, I reckon I could have operated the clutch with NO spring installed (neither the original nor the replacement) as the pedal returned very happily to normal resting position with no spring installed.

Have done a brief test whilst driving - gear changes a little easier, but selecting reverse is a complete pain and leads to either double de clutching (not done THAT in a while) or embarrassing grinding of gears.

Cannot understand.

It would seem that the layout in my TD5 was not the same as in for example LandRoverAnorak's pics - the pedal brackets on mine protrude out of the pedal "cavity" meaning you can actually see them - does make fitting the spring to them trickier as you have to "close" the spring to get the ends located, albeit without the pedal bushes in place, the ends of the spring do eventually jump in - especially if you do as Green Machine said on here & locate the spring into the pedal u clip first. They are only however "loose" in the pedal bracket holes.

I was expecting a softer clutch, and some of it might just be my left leg having to forget 2 years worth of learned response and adapt, but so far, not really impressed.

Comments welcome!! 2001 TD5 110 DCPU in Bonatti Grey
Post #163977 23rd Aug 2012 4:15pm
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tolley



Member Since: 07 Nov 2011
Location: gloucester
Posts: 1114

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Oslo Blue
thanks Green Machine makes life easyer. Thumbs Up
Post #164019 23rd Aug 2012 7:21pm
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