 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear cross member painting |
 
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8578  
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Depending on exactly what tow bar you have then two bolts for chassis stays to undo.
4 bolts into rivnuts in rear cross member. Three (?) bolts into underside of rear cross member. Straight forward except LR uses a mixture of spanner sizes. Brendan |
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23rd Oct 2017 10:18pm |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7876 
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Have a look at Buzzweld RCP primer with CIO topcoat, it's what I've got to use when I finally get round to it! James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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23rd Oct 2017 10:47pm |
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| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
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Nothing is straight forward on my Defender lol as at a guess they will have siezed like everything else ive had to grind off. It's a height adjustable towbar with arms in a triangular shape going back to the chassis. |
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24th Oct 2017 8:12am |
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| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
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Looks good stuff and spray tin available too , just wondering if get away with 1 tin. I had read somewhere last night recommending brush on rustoleum stuff which apparently doesn't leave brush marks but I find that hard to believe. |
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24th Oct 2017 8:27am |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7876
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Now on my PC I can post the RCP and CIO library photos below. You can get both in paint or spray. Spray will give a much better finish. I painted RCP in a trailer and it is quite thick. Buzzweld do a specific cross member kit. Speak to Craig at Buzzweld, he is very helpful.
Before 
RCP
CIO
Click image to enlarge James MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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24th Oct 2017 9:11am |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 909 
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I fully removed the tow hitch assembly, rubbed down using a scotch brite pad, degreased the area using Bilthambers surfex HD. Masked everything up then used POR 15 chassis top coat in aerosol with another coat after the first had dried overnight.
I don't have a finished picture to hand as the end results was only filmed. it looks really good and after being treated to ACF 50 it looks amazing. |
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24th Oct 2017 9:45am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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I had a bit of surface rust starting to form on mine. Took the towbar off (the height adjustable Dixon Bate, you need 19mm and then either 24 or 27 spanners, I can't remember the larger size), wire brushed it by hand, rust converting primer then a few coats of black stonechip and a few days later some underseal.
Looks as good as new. |
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24th Oct 2017 9:52am |
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| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
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that's certainly tempting @JOW240725 or else i just go cheaper and see what happens as its never going to look like new as its a little too far gone in the corners and i dont want to sand the layers down to much
 Ive used some fertan on the worst bits and its looking a lot better. |
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24th Oct 2017 10:13am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2290 
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Hello Djcla
I've done mine twice now in 4 years. Initially to deal with the surface rusts (all be it fine) that typically starts to appear in the first few years of a Defenders Life due to the inadequate way LR painted the Chassis (Rear Cross Member)...IMO I would guess that the Mud Flap Brackets will be well on their way to looking tired also... 
I repainted each of the items separately on mine, Cross Member, Nas Rear Step, Dixon Bate Towing Plate + some custom metalwork. Just the act of bolting all this back together does introduce 'weak points' in the protective finish, as the Painted Surface is broken where each bolt is tightened, allowing...in time...for corrosion and the deterioration of the end result to probably 'start again' from these 'contact points' Second Refinishing was with all parts in place. I converted the Rust that was there, etched Primed generally (but mainly the SS Bolts) Primed and then used a Good Quality Satin Top Coat (all from my local Automotive Paint Supplier) Because this is Satin Black, it is possible to use a few cans from Halfords and get a good enough result, Acid 8 if you want to etch anything...golden rule as ever... preparation Convert Rust (FE123 or something else good) Click image to enlarge Etch Click image to enlarge Prime Click image to enlarge In Situ Parts Click image to enlarge Good Luck... SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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24th Oct 2017 10:26am |
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| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
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Click image to enlarge This is my tow bar , so is it best to remove because if any of the bolts go into rivnuts I'm reluctant to as I'm sure they will break and be larger than m8. |
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24th Oct 2017 11:28am |
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| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 721  
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If you are worried then I would remove the tow ball and paint the rest in situ. As Skip says, Halfords satin black in spray cans is a good match. I used it on my mud flaps over acid etch primer with a good result.
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24th Oct 2017 11:50am |
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| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
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thanks i am worried only because my mudflaps and step ( both rusted through) were a tw** to get off..
So what is acid etch primer then compared to any old primer? |
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24th Oct 2017 11:54am |
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| Cactus79 Member Since: 09 Jan 2017 Location: Cheshire Posts: 51
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Did mine the other week with RCP and CIO.
Click image to enlarge |
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24th Oct 2017 11:58am |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 909
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Djcla The captive nuts are bigger than M8 barring the three on the underside of the L strengthener facing upwards.
IMHO a good paint job is going to take more than 5 minutes and removing all the bits makes the task easier as you can get to all faces, as well as painting the tow hitch assembly separately. Have a good appraisal of the crossmember as these things do rust inside working out and regardless of what paint you use it will blow through with rust any way. If it is in a state where the captives will pull out when undoing the bolts then isn't in a state to be used thoroughly as a towing device. It is hard to tell from pictures the true state of your crossmember but I'd cost up your time and effort in trying to prolong the inevitable versus stopping it. The design means there is seams and box sections and these trap water well so hence they rust with freedom, minor stuff is fine to treat and cure but if seams have started to split on the facing edge and internal flaking is present you can slow the decline but it is something that is going to need replacing in the future. |
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24th Oct 2017 12:11pm |
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