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chadjizz



Member Since: 25 Apr 2012
Location: sussex
Posts: 559

England 2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Orkney Grey
landy wont start / immobiliser problem? 10AS unit problems
Hi guys

i have searched but couldn't find anything like this...

FYI i have central locking.

this morning at work the landy didn't lock. i didn't think much of it as i was working close.

got in it to go home at 5 and there was no red immobiliser light on entering the vehicle.

turned the ignition let the glow plugs go out and then no start, nothing.

if i turned the key without glow plugs it starts but then cuts straight out within a second or so.

i disconnected the battery, back up alarm came on, so connected back up. the red immobiliser light is now illuminating but still the same results when trying to start. Got the spare key brought out to me and the same situation...

i tried to follow the EKA procedure but as the landy wont lock i cant follow the beginning steps.

i manually locked all of the doors and then the drivers door, then unlocked but no alarm went off like the handbook suggests and now there is no red immobiliser light again. i still contiuned the EKA and tried the full procedure but nothing....

the landy hasn't been in any water and ot hasn't rained recently....

any help would be amazing

thank you


Last edited by chadjizz on 22nd May 2018 7:06pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #707452 15th May 2018 11:49pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
My wife's dc wouldn't start because a fuse had blown due to split wires in one of the second row door b post to door rubber boots. I can't tell you which fuse it was as I wasn't there so Landrover assist came out to sort it for her. So I'd check all the fuses first and if ones gone check your second row doors lock. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #707453 16th May 2018 12:30am
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HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam
Posts: 676

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Has this happened before or is it your first time in the area?

It could be electromagnetic interference preventing the 10AS module from "seeing" the FOB leading to no start situations. You can try pushing the vehicle a few meters then try starting it again it should turn over when you are out of range of the interference. This is my pet peeve issue with the truck. Had to do the push a few meters bit once or twice already.

Now if it's your usual spot and it just went wonky, it could be that the FOB and the 10AS module are out of sync and you'll have to sync them. Are the batteries in the FOB still OK? Is your 10AS module corrosion free?

I hope these help. If Defender theft is not an issue where you are, you can opt to have the immobilizer disabled so you won't encounter this issue again.
Post #707455 16th May 2018 3:30am
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chadjizz



Member Since: 25 Apr 2012
Location: sussex
Posts: 559

England 2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Orkney Grey
mk1collector i checked the fuses relating to the alarm system and were fine. The only similar thing to what you mentioned is the electric window(drivers side) only works when the door is closed and not open as there is a lose connection in the rubber protector bit.... been like this for a month now.

HardCharger it is on a clients driveway, i have been working there in the days for the last week or so. Happy to disable it but not sure who could.

thank you for the ideas
Post #707462 16th May 2018 7:43am
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
I'd check every single fuse, not just the alarm ones Thumbs Up Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #707471 16th May 2018 9:17am
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chadjizz



Member Since: 25 Apr 2012
Location: sussex
Posts: 559

England 2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Orkney Grey
Checked them all under the dash and all are fine.
Post #707477 16th May 2018 10:10am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16876

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I'd be inclined to sort out the wiring to the driver's door first, since the alarm and immobiliser are linked to the driver's door lock mechanism and you have a known problem with the door harness.
Post #707483 16th May 2018 10:49am
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chadjizz



Member Since: 25 Apr 2012
Location: sussex
Posts: 559

England 2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Orkney Grey
its definitely the 10as unit.
due to it being a post 2012 it cant be refurbished and Landrover have stopped making the part.
it seems to be a dealer only fix due to the coding involved with fitting the "alternative" part/system....
they want £1500 minimum apparently Big Cry

has anyone else suffered this problem in the newer post 2012 2.2 puma's?
Post #708633 22nd May 2018 6:49pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1568

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
There’s a very easy work around for this problem I’m not posting it on a public forum though Thumbs Up
Post #708686 22nd May 2018 10:06pm
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matluma



Member Since: 14 Jun 2018
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3

Australia 2009 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Corris Grey
Can anyone Pm me and let us know more about this workaround?
I have horrible issues with 10as. dirt roads now shutting the car down/hazzards/door locks..... I considering selling this electrical junk and going back to the 300Tdi I kept around just in case....

Im also having strange starting issues where it seems like the battery is low, I drive for 3Hrs, stop the car and it acts like its dead after 10 mins. wait 10 seconds and it cranks at full gusto like it never had a problem... Earths seem tight, etc.

Mechanical Injection is the future.

Thx Defender People.
Post #712323 14th Jun 2018 1:43pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2287

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello chadjizz

You may have already considered this, but I'd say it would be worth talking to Paul Brown
at Technozen before you 'give up' on the AS10...

https://www.technozen-electronics.co.uk/la...-services/

Good Luck SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #712326 14th Jun 2018 2:17pm
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legin



Member Since: 22 Jul 2017
Location: Chelmsford Essex
Posts: 1004

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Santorini Black
chadjizz wrote:
its definitely the 10as unit.
due to it being a post 2012 it cant be refurbished and Landrover have stopped making the part.
it seems to be a dealer only fix due to the coding involved with fitting the "alternative" part/system....
they want £1500 minimum apparently Big Cry

has anyone else suffered this problem in the newer post 2012 2.2 puma's?


I have and had it fixed by Chris at CSK for a lot less than £1500
Post #712340 14th Jun 2018 4:50pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
if it's still a Lucas/TRW 10AS unit just with new fobs I can't see a reason why you couldn't just replace it with an earlier 10AS unit and fobs. Then program it with one of the many after market tools.
Post #712362 14th Jun 2018 7:30pm
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legin



Member Since: 22 Jul 2017
Location: Chelmsford Essex
Posts: 1004

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Santorini Black
zsd-puma your on the right track Chris used a td5 10AS unit and but their is a wiring loom difference and it becomes a dash out and hack in to the puma loom job .
Post #712388 14th Jun 2018 9:16pm
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6480

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Or instead of hacking stuff - an adapter loom perhaps?  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #712389 14th Jun 2018 9:19pm
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