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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829  |
"flap pushed to the left as you look at the heater box?" ...I guess that depends on where you're standing!....but I suspect not.
So we're definitely talking about the lever/flap which is on top of the box? If you were standing at the front of the car, looking into the engine bay, then for max heat, the lever needs to go to the right - towards the passenger wing. It's basically operating a big flap which either diverts the airflow from the fan/wing duct through the matrix or away from it. So, when the dash control is pushed down for heat, the cable pushes the lever away towards the OS/passenger wing. I can actually measure the heat output quite accurately. I have a digital sensor thing. I'll do that next time I'm out and the engine's up to temperature. I'll see what's happening tomorrow. Because I was fitting the Landreiziger fan control, I didn't bother refitting the flap which closes off the box completely - so if it would help I could try and photograph it to show what's happening? Sorry if this comes across as really basic or patronising - absolutely not intended. Cheers Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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2nd Mar 2018 2:32pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5740  
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Sorry...Yes you are correct,. It is indeed to the right the flap needs to move. Left from right, arse from elbow etc!
If you can do top and bottom vent reading that would be good thanks. If you can also do some pics that might help. I think when I last checked and move the vent control to the RIGHT the control stopped on what I assume to be an internal stopper/matrix. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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2nd Mar 2018 3:00pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
No probs - I'll get those readings next time I'm out.
I actually now have the old heater box sitting on the bench. If it's manageable without taking it completely apart, I'll see if I can take the top plate off and photograph what's inside - showing how that flap works. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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2nd Mar 2018 3:08pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5740
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That would be excellent - cheers.
Also a pic of the hole that feeds air into the bulkhead please. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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2nd Mar 2018 3:10pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Ok,
Bit of a pig of a thing to photograph, and I'd forgotten that the shape of the internal metalwork would actually make it hard to see the workings as clearly as you'd like. Anyway. Here's one showing the lever in the 'heat' position. If you look just below the lever, you'll see the layer of foam that's stuck to the flap. The matrix itself it just under my hand;  Click image to enlarge Same angle, but this time with the lever moved to the 'cold' position. Now you can see that the flap has moved, and air would be bypassing the matrix: Click image to enlarge then one with the flap in the 'cold' position, but from a different angle. As you'll see, this directs air away from the matrix and around the front of the heater box towards the bulkhead: Click image to enlarge Then the exit from the heater towards the bulkhead - open: Click image to enlarge and closed: Click image to enlarge Like I say, awkward to photo, but hopefully this gives you an idea. It is worth trying to determine whether you are getting the full range of movement with those control flaps. If either is blocked then that could stop air going through the matrix, or block air getting through the bulkhead. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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2nd Mar 2018 5:28pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5740
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Thanks for taking the time to take the pictures. I didn't realise the hole from the heater box to the bulkhead was that big. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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2nd Mar 2018 8:54pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
No bother, hope it helps make sense of what's happening.
But just on that point about the size of the heater outlet, in a design masterstroke, LR matched this large heater outlet with a hole in the bulkhead that's about half the size! Take a wander round google or ebay and look at bulkhead pics. The hole in the bulkhead is, maybe not exactly half, but 60% of the size of that outlet. In fact, take a look at the thread about my own tribulations with my Defender - linked in my sig. below. I think there's a photo there of the bulkhead minus heater. It looks like I might be on a long-ish run to Aberdeen-shire on Sunday. I'll get some readings for the heat output then. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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2nd Mar 2018 9:07pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5740
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Thanks for the memory jogger, thinking back to when I had my bulkhead swapped (its slowing coming back to me) the garage mentioned the new bulkhead had a bigger hole for the heater and I think they mentioned about making the hole the same size as the original one by fixing a plate over part of the hole.
See here(as it was before fitted) Click image to enlarge The brown stuff is cavity wax Out of interest then, what is on the inner bulkhead side for the heater ducting? *off to look at your link* Be great if you can get some readings. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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2nd Mar 2018 10:59pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
I'm not sure my bulkhead was like that - I think it was a TD5 ( because 300Tdi ones were no longer available)... but I'd have to check the paperwork.
From my memory, the hole in the bulkhead was smaller. I think there's a foam seal directly against the bulkhead, then a 'bezel' thing, then another foam seal against the lower dash/heater chamber. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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3rd Mar 2018 12:14am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5740
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Had a look today and found the heater control flap had about another 10mm travel left so now adjusted to max flappage. Also had a look at the heater flap control cables. Managed to snap about 25mm off cable off.
ended up pulling some through with pliers and then re-adjusting the cable in the clamp. Now I have more movement than before and about 2.5 settings rather than 2. Time will tell when I give the 110 a good run to get the heater warm. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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3rd Mar 2018 6:05pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Just back in after a quick run in/out of town. It wasn't a long run, but the engine was up to temperature.
My thermometer gadget was reading about 49/50'C at both the top and bottom vents on the passenger side. That's with the heat fully on; the fan running full; and the air either fully directed up to the windscreen, or down to the footwells. The same thermometer is giving 0.5'C in ambient air outside the house - so that's quite impressive I reckon. I wish I'd thought to measure the heat output before changing everything over. Another way of gauging it - wearing a fleece and a down jacket is now just uncomfortably hot once the cabin's been heated. It certainly didn't used to be like that. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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4th Mar 2018 3:42pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5740
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Hi
Thanks for the temp readings, I am going for a 30mile drive tomorrow eve so I will measure my temperate output as well. (after I have replaced the battery) 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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5th Mar 2018 9:41am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5740
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I forgot to ask, is it the direction lever (the one nearest the windscreen) that controls the big vent shown in the pictures ? 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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5th Mar 2018 9:46am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5740
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After a good run I have the following results.
Top air vent was putting out around 50 deg c and with bottom vent open top vent sat at around 44 deg C Engine temp as measured with Nanocom, 89-91 deg C I have ordered a new thermostat (as the one currently in has been in use for around 7 years since I got the car) Probably wont make any differance, but it will give me the warm feeling its been replaced. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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7th Mar 2018 9:47am |
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