 | Home > My Defender > My 1994 300Tdi SW |
 
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829  |
So, because I've been on holiday on my own-some, I've had a good chance to spend lots of time in the garage..
I finished off the guttering sealant. Not the most exciting pics. I will be so disappointed if this doesn't work!  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge There was a huge gap in the roof panels here. I'd previously sealed it, so picked that out and did it again. Click image to enlarge Geobloke and any other environmental scientists, please look away now! I reckon it must be a good 8 - 10 years since the roof was last 'properly' cleaned. Even then, I'm afraid I've just done the roof seams. There were some interesting algal communities up there: Click image to enlarge The seams, lengthways and across the front were liberally treated with Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure - it's such a brilliant product name! Also did the alpine light seals with this. So, after all that I am sincerely hoping that the roof is dry and leak-proof. I guess time will tell. I mentioned the 'scenelight' earlier - here it sits. Sealed in of course! Click image to enlarge On a roll, I moved on to the rear side windows, and out they came. Click image to enlarge Cleaned them up, and sealed the fixed side with some more Capt. Tolley's.... Click image to enlarge I could also see that there were small gaps between the fixed window and the centre upright, so got some 'dum dum' into there. Then it was a case of masking up the window outline and getting the sikaflex gun out. Click image to enlarge When I'd taken out the windows, the original foam seal was pretty well-stuck to the window still, but there was no bond or seal with the car bodywork whatsoever. It had clearly been leaking in there for ages. Window back in, pop rivets sealed, and the new finishing strip in place. That's an entertaining wee job.... Click image to enlarge I'm assuming this will make a big difference to waterproofing the car, but it's already made a difference to the noise. Before, because the windows were barely sealed to the car, whenever you closed one of the rear doors there was quite a 'rattle'. The first time I closed the door after sealing in the windows, I could hear a huge difference. Just a good, solid thud and nothing else. I hadn't really expected that, so was quite surprised - and pleased. Result! While I was in the neighbourhood; had the sealant gun out; and half a tube of sealant left, I masked off the body to capping join and got a bead in there. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge With all this, it's bound the be the driest Defender out the back of my house..! More to follow, but I'll do it as a separate post. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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6th Apr 2018 10:46am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
So, while I was focussing on the back of the car, time to fit some of the MSS window security guards I'd bought a little while ago.
It's not the easiest job, I have to say. Not seen much about this elsewhere, so I'll provide some more detail in case it helps anyone else in future. Started with the easy stuff... masking off the brackets to avoid any steel / alu corrosion issues. So far, so good! Click image to enlarge Then onto the driver's side guard... The guards are designed to fit really snugly around the window frame. Having spoken to MSS (while I was 'enjoying' the job) I'm told that in typical LR fashion there's loads of 'build tolerance'. In my case, the guards fitted extremely snugly with no fixings involved. It is important to get the brackets the right way round, as they allow the guard to fit closely to the window. Again, so far, so good. Offered the guard up, and got it to fit on the top, but there was just no way it was going to fit onto the bottom of the window frame. There just wasn't enough tolerance once the button-head screws were in place. This shows the guard fitted on the top of the frame, with the button screws in place. You can see the wee gap - and that's simply the screw heads and washers. Click image to enlarge and then, it's hard to photo, but with the top in place it just wasn't going to fit at the bottom: Click image to enlarge Scratched head, phoned MSS and then thought I'd mark it up and use pop-rivets. After all, the rest of the car is held together with them! This only really worked because I'd done a trial fit with the original screws in place - I'd got all the adjustments made, and knew exactly where the pop rivets should go. The benefit obviously is that pop-rivets have such a low-profile head. Once I'd done that, I did get the guards to fit just fine. Absolutely tight to the window, so hopefully won't be a problem re-fitting the internal trim once I get to that stage. There was one problem. I mentioned in the post above how bonding in the rear windows had given a nice solid 'thud' noise when closing the door. With the guard in place... clang....ang....ang. Definitely wasn't having that, so off with the guard again and I used strips of 2 or 3mm adhesive foam tape around the whole 'diameter' of the window, and on the central support. Guard back into place; close door; "thud" - excellent! If it was making that noise with the door closing - imagine what it would do driving down the road. I wanted a secure load area, but not at the expense of driving along with a demented drum solo going on. So, guard in place, using pop-rivets, and with foam deadening: Click image to enlarge So, it was a bit of hassle, amending the fixings, on, then off again, twice at least, but after all that I'm pretty pleased with it. Then moved onto the rear quarters. I had offered the guards up to the windows before, and thought this would be a real PITA - but I'd made the basic mistake of offering up the wrong side guard. Once you realise that the mesh needs to go snug against the glass, it's simple to see how it works. The top fixings just uses the roof bolts, loosen or remove, slot on the guard and tighten up. Simples. For the lower fixings, I just used rivnuts. In fact I used them for the lower fixings on the side guard too. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I used foam strips around the window seals here too. Again, a nice solid 'thud' noise if you tap the guard, no hellish clanging going on. Then onto the passenger side - and they'd sent two driver's side guards. They're not interchangeable because there's a cut-out to allow access to the window catch. Ho hum. One of those things. I'd left it in the bubble wrap for weeks and just never thought to check. At least once the replacement arrives I'll have the knack of fixing it a bit more quickly. Overall, I'm happy with these guards. They fit internally rather than externally - that was a big thing for me - and they fit really tight/snug to the windows. For those of you wondering... I do have a full height dog guard too. It'll go back in once some other bits and pieces are sorted. I also have the MSS guard for the rear door - but that needs the rear door replaced first. Then, because I was still in a 'load area' mood, I broke out the grinder and took the rear door cill from this: Click image to enlarge to this (this photo is supposed to show a lot of bare metal - camera hasn't captured it very well): Click image to enlarge and then this: Click image to enlarge I'll put some red on it and then fit the new threshold, and the old seal... The old seal? Yep. Because the rear door is so knackered, I'll wait till the new one's on before fitting the new seal. Next jobs - the final touches to the lighting rig... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I know they're not meant to fit on the bonnet...! These are chosen to be e-marked and road legal, but also because they have a nice horizontal beam. With the improved main beam, and the LED driving lights, I have loads of light 'down the road' - these bars will throw light to the sides of the road and hopefully give me a fighting chance of stopping if a 12-point stag is about to leap off the verge. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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6th Apr 2018 11:49am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
So.... more adventures.
The Landy went on its holidays.... Click image to enlarge 281 miles to Newcastle - never missed a beat. I actually don't know why I say this, because if there was any question of it not doing this, I'd either sort it or not drive it, but anyway we got there with no hassles whatsoever. No rattles and clangs from the window guards/dog guard/shelf either. Once over in the Netherlands we headed south to Dordrecht and the Landreiziger workshop - booked in for a wee electrical overhaul! Click image to enlarge (This photo from Martin/Liz) Basically the job spec included a dual battery installation; a new switch panel and tidying up of the ad-hoc stuff I'd done over the years; wiring in the heated seats and a loom for a heated screen; a scenelight wiring above the back door; wiring in the LED light bars on the roof; wiring in an aux socket in the rear load area; and other bits and pieces. So we went from this: Click image to enlarge To this - though I had painted and sealed the battery box myself: Click image to enlarge The switch panel was to be mounted on the 'downslope' of the cubby box, but once they got to that stage Martin and Liz thought this wouldn't be such a good plan, as the switch icons would be harder to identify, so they fitted a very neat 'panel' onto the front of the cubby. There are also spare switches wired in for future use. Click image to enlarge All the cubby box wiring goes through two multiplugs in a void under the box, allowing it to be easily removed for gearbox/other access. As you'd expect there's a voltage sensing/charging relay in there too, and an off switch for the aux/house battery. Click image to enlarge They also 'plumbed in' the Rigid light bars on the roof - and I have to say I'm really pleased with this. You'd hardly notice them at first glance - and I like that 'subtle' approach. Click image to enlarge These are mounted under the roof bar, and back from the windscreen edge. This means that I can still use the roof bar for carrying canoes; and also that there won't be any reflection off the bonnet - should it ever be shiny enough to actually reflect anything! To be honest, I haven't been out in them after dark yet - too busy since I got home and back to work - but even in daylight I can get a sense of how bright they are when the main beam is flashed. These are the E marked SR10/2 ones. Another small touch was to wire the scenelight above the back door on a three way switch to either a) come on with reverse for off road use  b) completely off c) independently on. This is a neat little waterproof toggle switch on the rear door frame.
Then it was just the long trundle home. (Note to self - avoid the Friday night ferries from now on). Again, car never missed a beat. Turned 220k miles just as we got home. For the first time in a while I took a note of mileage readings when filling up for the return journey. That calculation gives 31.2mpg.. This is exactly what I used to get 17 years and 150k miles ago when I first bought the car - which kind of surprised me I have to say. I reckon my speedo is a wee bit out, so that won't be entirely right, but I haven't had a look at all of the figures to work out the margin of error. So overall, very pleased with the electrical job and Landreiziger/Martin & Liz's handiwork. I have a cable listing for future reference, and they've put in 2 extra cable runs to the rear (one under the tub and one along the internal guttering) for anything I might need in future. They also have the details of the job 'on file' so that I can get in touch with any questions in future - if needed. I'm happy enough with it already, but I think the calibre of the installation will only grow on me. Could I have done this myself? Yeah, probably, in the same way that I could theoretically do a chassis swap. There is a small part of me would 'like' to be able to do all of this, but it would have taken a lot of research and daft questions, and a good few more months to get to this stage, and there's just no doubt at all that it wouldn't have been such a tight and professional job. The distance is a consideration, but I'd have no hesitation going back for other work. Besides which... we needed a holiday! Click image to enlarge Next.... two galved 2nd row doors are 'in the post' from SP4x4.... Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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17th Apr 2018 12:36pm |
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| stanstorey Member Since: 06 Mar 2012 Location: East Devon Posts: 118 
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Another great thread - I am enjoying catching up on the "my Defender" threads - particularly when i should be doing more mundane things in the house!
Nice to see a long ownership - how many owners get to replace things twice before their vehicle is sold on...I always get itchy feet and now regret selling many land rover over the years! |
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17th Apr 2018 4:06pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
^^^^ Thanks Stan - the long-term ownership is only going to get longer (touch wood).
But wow!..... long time no post. So I'll start with a gratuitous pic of a Defender in its natural environment - great day in Islay on a work-related trip. Click image to enlarge I also bought a roof tent off 'Stu' of this parish. Delighted with this, and managed to use it a couple of times before the car went off the road: Click image to enlarge Then things went 'backwards' in the sense that I stripped a lot of the interior trim/roof lining/sound deadening mat out to help the guys doing the chassis swap. The one coming out was a galved Richards chassis - probably about 14 years old. I've a couple of pics somewhere of it off the car if I can find them, It would likely have lasted another 3 or 4 years before starting to need patched, but all that time it would have been something nagging at the back of my mind, so I decided just to get it changed. This time, a Marsland chassis and I decided to have it painted. So, nice and new and 'shiny'... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Yep - I know the back door needs done... still! I am going to get around to that in the next couple of months. So now I (almost literally) have a shed-load of things to fit back onto the car, and new shiny stuff too. I do try and go for stuff that is 'functional', and enhancement or has a purpose, rather than just 'bling' for the sake of it, but the list includes optimill hinges all round, (hopefully/possibly) a nakatenanga wheel carrier, optimill wash/wipe with a TD5 wash reservoir to fit, deadlocks, headlight guards, new galved 2nd row doors from SP4x4 (yet to be painted), a 'barebox' security box for one of the rear wheel arches, a Gwynn Lewis mud-shield set....and probably a couple of other things I can't remember. I just need to get the opportunity to spend 'quality time' in the garage! Today though, with just a couple of hours spare after another work trip, I tackled the X-eng pedal lock. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Went pretty smoothly. This is it in without the 'Soundkiller' matting, so it'll need to come out again for the mat to fit, and there will be a bit more 'fettling' but I'm pretty happy with this. Where I am, I don't think it's something I'll use all the time, but if I have to leave the car somewhere more worrying, then with this, the Optimill steering lock, the deadlocks and window guards, I'll be much happier. This forum has cost me a fortune! But in a good way! I've also got a new steering pump and pipes to fit - the car is leaving two wee puddles these days instead of one. But so far it's coping with just regular level checks and top-ups... Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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15th Sep 2018 7:09pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10513
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Great update Donald, looking good with the painted chassis
1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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16th Sep 2018 8:30pm |
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| trickster5000 Member Since: 12 Dec 2015 Location: East Yorkshire Posts: 489  
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Awesome thread, love the mods
Matt.
'89 90 CSW with a 3.5 V8 conversion (WIP) - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic46809.html |
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16th Sep 2018 8:43pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
I think I must have a
 swearing problem! It gets brought on by spending time in the garage with the LR....
I had a go at changing the power steering pump this weekend. No glamorous mods, but a first for me. Followed the WS manual more or less until I got to the bit about securing the pulley and undoing the bolts holding it onto the pump. I got one off, but no way were the other two going to come off. Click image to enlarge So this is what it came down to: fan cowl off; intercooler out; grinder ...... Careful grinding did do the job. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge On the refit it turned out that the bolts going into two holes on the right barely had anything to tighten on to. The WS manual doesn't specify thread lock in there, but I thought it was worth a go as I certainly wasn't in any position to strip the engine down any further. Something to put at the back of my mind. Took off and replaced the pipes from the reservoir to the pump and the pump to the steering box. On the rebuild I also had to buy a new set of crowsfoot 'sockets' because I can't see any other way to properly tighten these nuts otherwise. The particular set I got was the only one available in town on a Sunday, and a wee bit spendy, but worked really well. Click image to enlarge This is actually where the swearing came in. I think I get particularly annoyed by simple stuff that just doesn't 'behave itself'. Getting the pipes back into the steering box so that I could align the threads properly was just a pain in the ***.
After that it was pretty much plain sailing. So not such an exciting update, but hopefully one less thing to worry about; and one less leak on the driveway! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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30th Sep 2018 9:38pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10513
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It's a good up date Donald, you have changed an item and have come through the other side a winner and another box ticked off
1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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1st Oct 2018 9:09pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Thanks Clayton - appreciate that. I must admit, as the nights get darker and the weather gets colder (no frost here yet though!) that my motivation has taken a bit of a dive. The 'to do' list doesn't seem to get any shorter - though it doesn't help that I keep adding things to it!
I'm getting the car dinitrolled locally later this week. The guy seems to be recommended by Dinitrol themselves, and for the money it just wouldn't be worth the hassle of doing it myself. Once that's done I'll fit the Gwyn Lewis shield kit to keep the worst of the crap out of the newly-protected nooks and crannies. After that, I think it might be a case of getting it 'wind and watertight' - or as close as is possible in an old LR - and then battening down the hatches. My garage - which I'd much rather have than not - is just a fancy tin shed, with no insulation or heating. Once the sun disappears then any heat in it just vanishes. Maybe I should put this into the 'grumpy old man' thread... or maybe it's just Monday! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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1st Oct 2018 9:36pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10513
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Sounds like a good plan with the under protection
as for it being Monday, it's nearly over  i don't blame you for not carrying on in the shed with no heating  1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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1st Oct 2018 10:40pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Ok, so normal service being resumed, and I've put the grumpy old git back in his box.
Car came back from the Dinitrol guy - and its a brilliant job. I'm just delighted with it. A good coating of wax on and in the chassis, and on the axles and underside. He says that he asks folk to come back in a couple of years to get any 'worn' bits topped up. For £250 that's an absolute bargain. It would cost more to do the door cavities, but seeing as I don't have any doors worth protecting at the moment that's a job for another time. So, boosted by that step forward I had a few things to keep me occupied today. I'd posted another thread question yesterday or the day before about body alignment - specifically why the 2nd row doors were so poorly aligned, with big gaps at the top rear corners: This was what I started with this morning... this door is actually 'shut'.... Click image to enlarge The side panels weren't "straight" - further in towards the front, on both sides - which won't have been helping the door gaps. There was a good 5 - 6mm in it, and the holes in the side panels are slightly 'slotted' allowing the sides to be pushed out: Click image to enlarge So I loosened off all the nuts/bolts holding the roof down - all the way along the sides and including the B pillar. Then, a Heath Robinson use of the trolley jack to lift the roof, and a spreader bar to push the sides out: Click image to enlarge As it turns out, I didn't need the spreader bar. Once the weight of the roof was off on each side, it was quite easy to push the side panels out and then hold them there while I re-tightened them. On each side I did cut just a tiny piece of metal off the top of the lip which holds the door seal - otherwise it would foul on the roof and not allow the panel to come out as much as it would otherwise. I don't know if, when fitted properly this lip on the roof would be 'inboard' of the side panel?: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge After that it's just a case of tighten everything up and refit the bits and pieces. And there is a significant difference in the door fit on both sides. The driver's side is still gaping a little - but back to what it used to be like, rather than a massive gap. I'm hoping that when I fit the new hinges, and eventually a new door, that I'll be able to tweak it to an even better fit. Click image to enlarge It is still significantly open, but much better than it was in the pic above. The passenger side door is almost properly closed. So, on a roll.... what's next!? I wanted to fit all of my new Gwyn Lewis shields - to keep the forthcoming winter crap off the nice new Dinitrol... I know it's meant to do that itself, but keeping it clean can only be a benefit. But, before fitting the rear seals, I knew I'd need to fit the new rear door and therefore the new hinges. The door was marked as 'corroded' by the MOT tester last year, and the MOT is in a couple of weeks, so time to finally change the rear door. No doubt, quite corroded really.... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The hinges were a "pain" - I knew they would be. Untouched for 24 years I reckon. I got the door off the hinges OK, but getting the hinges out of the bodywork was much worse. Those that wouldn't succumb to a small lump hammer and a punch, I just went straight to the grinder. That worked, but having got the hinges off and the paintwork cleaned of 24 years of old oil and grease, there's now more work needed before I simply bolt on the new hinges and door. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I 'could' just stick on the new hinges, but it wouldn't feel right. I'm going to have to brush out the white powder corrosion, then prime and paint. The new hinges are Optimill, so aluminium anyway, but I think I'll still fit some sort of PVC gasket between hinge and bodywork. Now... I think LR deserve some recognition for the serious efforts they make to find just the very best locations for catalytic corrosion. We all know that LRs suffer from this, but sometimes you'll find something and it just strikes you as genius! The rear door stay - not just aluminium, bolted to steel - but aluminium sandwiched between two bits of steel! And even better, just behind the rear wheel where it's exposed to all the salt spray! Absolutely brilliant - a real masterstroke! Yeah, maybe....... so this is what it looked like. Click image to enlarge And this is where tea stopped play for the day. Sometimes this is much more like 'restoration' than maintenance: Click image to enlarge I'll cut out a bit more to the marked lines. I'll then put an 'exterior' patch on from the outside of the wheel arch, and a second 'interior' patch, cut flush to the hole in the tub. It's only going to be cosmetic anyway, as I have one of the gas strut door stays to fit with the new door. I did notice, when kneeling on the boot floor, that could hear it knocking on the chassis or something below. Presumably the floor supports are past their best, so something else for the list. So, thankfully I've got a fortnight off coming up - plenty time to organise the wee patch above, clean and paint the bodywork, and get the new tailgate on. Then see what the MOT tester thinks...! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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9th Oct 2018 8:43pm |
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| Procta Member Since: 04 Dec 2016 Location: Sunderland Posts: 4937
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Love the battery box! That's what I want to do with mine, give it a good paint! I am toying with the idea of getting my roof painted black like the newer defenders. Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back
Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it! |
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9th Oct 2018 8:48pm |
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| Procta Member Since: 04 Dec 2016 Location: Sunderland Posts: 4937
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when my dad removed his seat box, he decided to have a oakus pokeus with a screw driver, which resulted in the rear tub panels crumbing into nothing and he decided to poke a hole through that been filled all ready. My mum went off in one at him! I had to drive down to yrm metals to get the replacement panels.
be interesting to see how you fix that Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back
Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it! |
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9th Oct 2018 8:52pm |
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