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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829  |
I dearly wish I was doing this myself, but this is a job I need to get done for me. The LR is my daily car, and with limited tools, space and time, I just can't take on a job as big as a chassis swap. I'm pretty confident it's well within my technical capabilities, but I'd have to buy another car to use meantime, and then probably be without the option to tow the boat.
When I did the bulkhead I had a month off between jobs. It didn't take the whole month, but it was almost ... almost.... like a holiday to be doing something completely different from normal, but this time round I have to get it done elsewhere. I'm not really out to diss any one chassis maker over another. You can't do that on the basis of one chassis, and I've seen that every manufacturer has positive supporters/experiences. All I can do is say that mine hasn't been good, and hasn't really stood the test of time. I was also chatting to Gwynn Lewis on the phone the other day, ordering some bits and pieces. He asked when the swap was being done - what time of year. His view was that early summer was best. The salt is off the road, and the galv gets a chance to weather (oxidise I suppose) before the next winter comes round. I'm not managing that, hence the paint this time around. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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14th Jan 2018 11:45pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Sooo - a Monday update from the weekend - only because if I'd done it last night there would have been far too much
  . Not just gratuitous, unneccesary but genuine, heartfelt 'why am I doing this' .
I've actually done a few bits and pieces since the last post. I've fitted a recored and upgraded radiator; cleaned out the turbo intercooler hoses; fitted a shiny 'allisport' rocker breather can; (tried to) fit new oil cooler pipes... generally pretty happy. Car's going well. The recore radiator was more expensive than a new one, but he fitted in a fourth layer of cooling channels, and I am harbouring dark thoughts about an upgraded intercooler and some fuel pump adjustments.... 
Then yesterday... can you guess from the pic below what job I was doing?  Click image to enlarge The clue is in the picture - or to be honest it's not in this picture.... Yep. Replacing the heater box. Amazing - taking the wing off to do it - but despite everything I genuinely think it's the best way. It's like taking a long-cut to avoid a traffic jam. You know it isn't really going to be any quicker, but at least you're moving. This has to be the most awkward job on the car - and if it's not, then I'd like to know what is, so that I can pay someone else to do that! I'd actually got misled by that nice, short video on youtube about upgrading the heater matrix. There's a bit where the guy talks about making templates and then cutting out the matrix retaining plates. Takes him about 10 seconds. Took me a whole lot longer - simply to find the right tool to do the job. I already had a cheapy 'dremel' type thing, but it didn't have anything like the power to cut through the steel plates. Ended up buying a new one - and even then I must have gone through about 40-odd of the tiny cutting discs it came with! Anyway, I'll gloss over it too. Eventually got the box rebuilt. Tried to fit it, with the wing in place, on Saturday afternoon - not a chance. I think, when I did this before at the time of the bulkhead swap, the roof and windscreen was off, so I was standing in the passenger footwell with a load strap around my shoulders and under the heater - using my legs to lift it into position so that I could thread those two lower bolts through: Click image to enlarge If you've done this before, you'll know how much of a this is. When you see how much clearance there is between the fitted heater and the inner wing...
Click image to enlarge I was actually cursing the designers of that thing. Only a mother could love it - and even then she'd be hard-pushed. It's the most ungainly box, like it's expanded to (awkwardly) fit all the nooks and crannies of that space. Surely they could have stepped back and said: "hang on boys. It works, but it's a pretty rubbish solution. Let's go back to the drawing board." I was trying to figure out how I could get a jack in there somewhere, to lift the box enough, but on the other hand I was pretty sure it isn't strong enough to take the force. I knew I needed some 'leverage' and then I had a 'eureka' moment. The last owners of the house had left behind a plasterboard lifter.... Click image to enlarge that, and a bit of wood cut to size, and my wife to push the bolts through from the passenger side.... and success. Unless someone else has a wonderful 'knacky' way of doing this, then I reckon this is what I'd do next time. Cut a patchable hole in the inner wing, and put the wooden post through there. What am I saying..? I'm never doing this again! Then time to get the wings back on. There wasn't too much to this really. Fairly straightforward. Even the bolts where I thought: "how TF am I supposed to get that in there" actually went OK. The wings (inner and outer) were stripped down in about an hour and a half. About a couple of hours to fight with the heater box, and then about another couple of hours to refit the wing and get everything plumbed up and connected. More or less finished by this stage. Click image to enlarge Then to treat myself after such a of a job, I went on to connect the Landreiziger wiring - a doddle; and a set of the adjustable air vents being made by Grafty of this Parish... No photos of them, but you'll know what they look like.
Into the garage at 10am, rolling out at about 5.30pm. Day's summary - On the losses side - 1) a serious sense of humour failure on my part. One of those days when you simply wish you drove something else; 2) the horn. Don't ask my why. Just decided to stop working when I reconnected it... and 3) the rear wash wipe. Rather than have the hose come nicely off the pump, the pump spigot decided to sacrifice itself.... wee
On the plus side - I took the car for a spin and I was really happy. The amount of heat the new matrix is pumping into the car is something I've never experienced. The fan controls push it through nicely, and Grafty's vents can either demist the windows, or keep your toes warm. Really pleased with them. Even with all the gaps and draughts in my car, it was genuinely warm. I'm off early tomorrow for a good run up to the ferry - a chance to see what it's like. I think I'll be the guy in a t-shirt, with the tomatoes growing in the back...! So, overall, a score draw I think. If I'd left it at just the heater, it would have been one of those depressing days that kept me away from the car and the toolbox for weeks. As it is, with the heater working so well, and the car pulling like a train, I feel progress has been made. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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26th Feb 2018 10:13pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10476 
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I think you should pat yourself on the back as it looks a job well done
 as for all the it's always better out than in  makes everything all better, great job  1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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27th Feb 2018 10:28pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2545 
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Heater box removal is not a fun job, that said I have managed to get it out a few times without removing the wing. It's a fiddle, but then removing the wing is far more of a pain in the backside in my opinion.
A good days work though, and glad the heater is working - just in time too! |
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28th Feb 2018 4:57pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Yep - though I'm in Stornoway today and the sun's shining, without even a single snowflake to worry about. Has to be said the wind is bitterly cold.
On the way across yesterday I was tempted to take a photo of my hat and gloves sitting on the passenger's seat and put them in the 'for sale' section - redundant once the engine had warmed up and the heater was pumping out so much cosy warmness. I suspect, if I had been replacing the old heater, with the original bulkhead seal that had become compressed and formed into shape, that things wouldn't have been so bad - but both times I've done this job now it's been with a new seal and I think the problem is you're fighting against that seal to get clearance to thread the bolts up through the footwell. actually, getting it out is OK - it's getting it back in again is the real pain. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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28th Feb 2018 5:30pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Today's adventures.... taking the seat box out so that I can remove the YRM boxes underneath and prep/paint/seal them.
Left it like this in the garage this evening. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The seatbox has that aged look. I put the boxes in a couple of years ago, in a bit of a hurry for an MOT I think - as the battery was about to fall out! Didn't get time to paint or underseal them, so doing it properly now. Also had a wee go at picking out the sealing compound in the roof gutters. That's not going to be a fun job. I have a new 'multi-tool' - I'll need to see if that will make it any easier tomorrow. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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14th Mar 2018 9:33pm |
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| Profyaffle Member Since: 03 Oct 2016 Location: N Yorks Posts: 526 
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What a great thread...
You've done some lovely work.. I don't think I would tackle the heater box, nightmare... 1993 200Tdi Defender 90 |
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15th Mar 2018 11:08am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
^^^^ thanks mate! It's always good to see that someone's reading and enjoying it.
Some of this isn't the most exciting content - but it's really struck me that it's a great way of keeping a personal timeline o what's happening, and also handy to reference if any one else asks about this particular obsession! So, I haven't made as much progress as I'd hoped. Painting jobs are always like that (probably why I do tend to avoid them). Add a coat on one side - wait an hour; add a coat on the other side - wait an hour; etc etc. A lot of time goes past and you don't really feel you're getting anywhere fast. So I took the seat boxes back to bare/clean aluminium using a polishing disc in the grinder. There was a decent layer of oxidisation on some parts, but on others there was some pitting. The boxes are 100% aluminium, as opposed to birmabright, so maybe they're more susceptible to galvanic corrosion?? Click image to enlarge Boxes primed up and re-assembled, with the seams painted with a rubberised seam-sealer. Since this pic was taken I've got them silver on the inside, and I'll use underseal on the bottoms. Click image to enlarge The seat box itself - well, I'm a bit worried about that. It's pretty bad in places - particularly, and predictably, where the original steel underseat boxes used to attach. You can see that the "ali worm" has been munching away.... Click image to enlarge I hadn't intended to originally, but I decided to take the worst bits back to bare metal, then prime and paint. I didn't have any proper/matched paint to hand, so hammerite red - but this is very definitely a functional painting here, rather than cosmetic, to try and preserve what's left while I work out what to do next. This is hidden under the sound killer matting anyway. Click image to enlarge Hopefully get the car back together on Sunday afternoon. This has all got me a bit worried about the repair panel I put in under the 2nd row seats last year.... I can see a repeat performance there in the not too distant future. At least wih that, while there might not be any back seats, or floor, at least the car will be mobile! It's occurred to me that there's a fine line somewhere between sensible maintenance of a daily car, and restoration of something that's getting on a bit. I didn't set out (16 or 17 years ago!) to get too involved in 'restoration' but some of what I'm doing now feels a bit like it. Obviously the Defender is the 'new Series' - some of them getting on a bit and needing lots of attention. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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16th Mar 2018 5:58pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10476
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Yes it does feel that your getting nowhere fast with the layer's of paint that goes on
 but in the end your glad you did wait with each layer
I always read your thread, i find it very interesting and learning a lot as well, so keep up all that good work you do, on your landy and your lap top/? many thanks 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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16th Mar 2018 10:01pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
^^^^^ Thanks Clayton!
I didn't get any pics of the 're-install' of the seat box. One of the problems of working on your daily driver is that there can often be a lot of pressure to get it back to being useable - which I did! I had an interesting drive middle of last week: west coast of Lewis; 5.30am - heading for the ferry; jumped into the car in the pitch dark and...... no headlights! I had interior lights, tail and sidelights, but no main beam! Thankfully the LED spots were firing up, so just headed off. One of the things about the west coast of Lewis, at 5.30am in the middle of the week in March is that there's not much traffic. Think I passed two cars in 30miles - but it was a relief to get to the streetlighting in Stornoway. Turned out to be a poor earth for the relays on the upgraded headlight loom. While I was on the island I had one of those nice LR showers - when the water pours out from the headlining at the top of the A pillar - I reckon it must pour for a good 15 secs or more - which is a long time when you count it out properly. So here was today's work station: Click image to enlarge weapons of choice... Click image to enlarge ...and what I was starting with: Click image to enlarge I scored the existing sealant and then attacked it with the pick and a screwdriver. The multi-tool saves a lot of time, but there's still a lot of work with the hand tools. Click image to enlarge Anyway, got it down to bare metal, more or less. Click image to enlarge There was a thread somewhere about the roof/guttering construction, so these pics might help someone in future. Here's the front corner. I can definitely see how it would be possible for water to get pushed in here, and there were some long cracks in the original sealant. Click image to enlarge There's also this joint in the middle, where the sloping 'aerodynamic' (!) bit starts. Again, I can absolutely see why leaks in the roof join would let water run down and into the internal guttering. Click image to enlarge ...and then the rear corner - and again, a pretty obvious place where old, cracked sealant would let water in. Click image to enlarge ....and where I got to. The first couple of beads of sealant in place. Click image to enlarge I generally don't really like using sealants - and 'adhesive' ones, like this Sikaflex 291i, are even worse. It's a bit awkward to get the gun in because of the roof and the outer gutter. Not the prettiest job, but I'll add another couple of beads tomorrow and try and get a smoother finish. The job would definitly be easier with the roof off, and resting at waist height - then you could get longer sealant runs instead of having to stop and move the steps - but then we're back where we started - trying to keep a daily driver on the road as much as possible. I do wonder how this flexible sikaflex will work with the feet for my roof-bars, but we'll just see what happens. And then it was 'Gin o'clock'! I'm off work next week, so should have enought time to get the other side done and tackle the seams on the roof and the alpine lights with a bottle of Captain Tolleys... a dry Defender is the target! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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31st Mar 2018 6:25pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 
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Excellent work
I love threads with actual building involved and plenty of pics, also mine needs the gutter sealant treatment soon so its great to see what's involved Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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31st Mar 2018 7:24pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Cheers Ray,
No pics today, but I did more or less finish the job. Scraped all the sealant out of the gutter at the back, and along the passenger side and put some beads of sealant in. One thing I did realise is that it's easier to finish/smooth off the sealant using plenty water on fingers and thumbs (wearing nitrile gloves). I think I might also have got some selant finishing fluid too if I'd realised how relatively sticky it is by comparison to indoors bathroom sealant. Then, as a wee treat I fitted the scenelight at the back (not wired in yet) and removed one of the windows from the rear panel. Amazing how a Defender is just held together with pop rivets. There's no doubt both of these are leaking. A 24 year old piece of foam sealant had stopped being very effective. It'll go back in with a big bead of black sikaflex. Pics tomorrow! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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1st Apr 2018 6:04pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10476
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Great bit of work there
I do know what it's like to get wet from the hidden reservoir  i did sort mine out, but not a good job like yours as i have got a roll cage in the way 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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1st Apr 2018 10:35pm |
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| bogwert Member Since: 03 Sep 2016 Location: Dundee Posts: 194 
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Excellent thread!
Need to get our roof sorted too, we have nice wee shower feature on the passenger side! Chris 2014 Discovery 4 TDV6 HSE 2003 Defender 90 TD5 CSW |
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2nd Apr 2018 4:18pm |
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