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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10513  
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Thanks all for your reply's, very interesting
 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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31st May 2017 11:05pm |
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| Martyn668 Member Since: 17 Mar 2013 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 134 
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What about the Watts?
I have a 25W soldering iron, but I found that while it would melt the solder, I had real difficulty imparting any heat into a copper wire so that the solder would stick to it (heat conduction?) A higher powered 40W iron has helped somewhat but I've been flicking through the Machinemart catalogue today wondering if I shouldn't go 100W+. Or gas. Could all be lack of skill of course, but like I said, the jump from 25W to 40W did help. |
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24th Jun 2017 5:29pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 
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It does help if you've got an inverter fitted in your Defender, best of both worlds then
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24th Jun 2017 10:48pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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If you need a 100w (or even 40w for that matter) iron to solder wiring then you're definitely doing it wrong. Using flux solder makes for better results, in my experience. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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24th Jun 2017 10:59pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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Basic Hakko station at home.
Pace SMD/rework station at old work, super fast to get up to heat and change tools that one. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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25th Jun 2017 5:07am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Spend time imparting heat to the larger sink beforehand (often the ground plane). Then keep at it retaining the heat on the same problematic net if you can. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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25th Jun 2017 5:12am |
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| Martyn668 Member Since: 17 Mar 2013 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 134
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So if 25W should enough, and I've spent time "pre-heating" the heat sink (the long copper wire), to accept the flux-cored solder, I think I'm doing it right. (Although I expect OK, rather than perfect might describe my technique, "room for improvement" as the saying goes.) How much difference does a worn tip make? Both of the tips are pretty pitted tbh, but I figured it's not about aesthetics. Even a lumpy tip should still heat up right? When and why do you need to change tips? Might have a quick poke around YouTube to see if there are any soldering lessons. By the way what's a 100W soldering iron for then? Just really big wires? How big? Battery/winch leads (along with the crimp, which is the main contact.)
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25th Jun 2017 11:58am |
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| Martyn668 Member Since: 17 Mar 2013 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 134
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So looking on YouTube, I definitely need to keep my tips cleaner. Seems like a lot of oxides collect there and prevent good flow. Also some additional rosin flux to smear on beforehand.
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25th Jun 2017 1:31pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240
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Yeah, keeping the tip clean is essential. Ideally, you should aim for the tip to be tinned with solder before you start, but that only works if the tip is smooth and clean.
My wife uses a 100w iron for assembling stained glass, but they're also useful for soldering much larger cable where the extra power offsets the heat sink nature of larger material. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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25th Jun 2017 10:14pm |
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| Martyn668 Member Since: 17 Mar 2013 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 134
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There seems to be quite a bit of "material" in the tip. If it is pitted/dirty, can I sand/grind this away? What's underneath is shiny copper colour. Or am I in danger of creating a short, or damaging it in some way? Can I keep grinding until the tip is too short to be useful before replacing it, or do I replace it when it starts to pit/before that?
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25th Jun 2017 10:42pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240
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You won't short anything out but if you've removed the original coating to expose the copper core then I'd fit a new tip. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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25th Jun 2017 10:57pm |
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| Martyn668 Member Since: 17 Mar 2013 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 134
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OK, thanks. Are tips all universal fit, or should I look for ones specific to that manufacturer /model?
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25th Jun 2017 11:12pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240
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No, they're model specific. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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26th Jun 2017 7:47am |
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| Martyn668 Member Since: 17 Mar 2013 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 134
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Hmmm, I suspect it's cheaper to buy a new soldering iron than a spare tip, just like printer cartridges or replacement chucks for a drill (different thread). Anyway off to the shops I go. Thanks to everyone for all their input. BTW, watching the YouTube teaching videos, was struck by the American pronunciation of soldering. Almost makes it sound like a different word. Sort of "soddering" with a long "o". Weird.
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26th Jun 2017 8:52am |
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