 | Home > In Car Electronics > Soldering iron. |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19560  
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Dremel butane gas, it's hotter for Defender use but electric is better for intricate electronics. There is a smaller pen like one as a kit like I have or a more torch like one. I like the little one. Lighter fluid by Rolson to refill it Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Last edited by custom90 on 28th May 2017 10:44pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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28th May 2017 9:46pm |
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| sako243 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 1186  
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What is your cheap soldering iron? Why would you think it's not up to the job?
Bearing in mind the general consensus is that the strength of solder joints lies in the skill of the technician. Hence why a lot of stuff is crimped because it's repeatable strength and quality. Anyway, in response to your question. I have a cheap Weller at home but also have access to lots of ERSA soldering station at work (not really Land Rover style soldering that mind). Most of my stuff on the vehicle I tend to crimp and will occasionally solder, last thing I soldered was with a gas torch though (winch cables after crimping). Ed 82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6 95 Defender 110 300Tdi |
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28th May 2017 9:50pm |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 906 
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Been using the Clarke butane soldering iron from Machine mart for years now. been happy with it's flame - heat control and lasts a fair time before needing topping up.
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28th May 2017 10:13pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10491 
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Thanks custom90steve and devon rover for your replys, will look in to those that you have mentioned
1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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28th May 2017 10:23pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10491
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sako 243 Many thanks for your reply, i do do alot of crimping but on some i prefer that added bit of security on the join
 On the cheap iron the end of it wears away and does not do a good solder joint, very messy, not good, so that is why i have asked for some help 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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28th May 2017 10:28pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19560
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The Dremel has variable flow control. Does the Clarke one too? Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
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28th May 2017 10:47pm |
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| Mash Member Since: 09 Feb 2015 Location: Guernsey Posts: 1674  
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I bought a dremel one when I replaced my old gas powered jobby, first one I purchased failed to work, the shop swapped it straight away and I've had plenty of use since, mixture of home jobs and a few work related ones too. 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html 110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html 52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html D3 Hse - Fiona Capri 2l S - Anna Think I might have a problem............ |
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28th May 2017 11:05pm |
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| Romadog Member Since: 07 Jul 2011 Location: Powys Posts: 1746 |
Balancing an electric soldering iron in the front of a Defender is an art when doing dash wiring
 
Easy to warm things up unintentionally !! 
However they heat up perfectly for the task. I use a butane gun for heating the heat shrink, however a jet flamed lighter is good as lightweight. Sometimes though you need to be able to direct the heat easily and a pen type is better Hope this helps. |
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29th May 2017 8:42am |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1758 
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In a vehicle application I'd argue that soldering makes the joint less secure, rather than more.
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29th May 2017 12:03pm |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 906
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yes you can twist the head to increase or decrease the flow ergo the heat produced. it comes with the head to act as a mini flame torch for applying heatshrink too. I'll admit the flat solder head has started to erode but it is 5 odd years old now. |
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29th May 2017 1:57pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 664 
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I borrow the Antex mains powered iron if I want to solder anything
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29th May 2017 4:07pm |
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| Intercept Member Since: 27 Feb 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 587 
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For non-SMT electronic assembly/repair I've been a Weller fan for many years, but now my main soldering iron is one of these:
http://www.portasol.com/products_sc_r3.asp?sC_ID=112 Fully adjustable and comes with many different tips and good spares support. Its also good for heat-shrink and is a brilliant hot-knife for cutting rope and woven polypropylene weed control membrane. However... you need to be really careful with the exhaust, which vents through the side of the tip, as this will scorch or set fire to things in close proximity. For big stuff I'll break out the 200 watt Weller |
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30th May 2017 10:21am |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 664
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Interesting the amount of love for gas powered irons, perhaps I should look into these ....
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30th May 2017 12:35pm |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 572  
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Gas powered for field repairs (Portasol is perfect), electrical powered for "home" work. For basic home work (wire soldering) something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weller-100-Watt.../100085564, for tiny work some soldering station - I have Pace Icon2 - superb also for all SMT work, but a bit over for just few repairs.
And good heatshrinking tubes, preferable with some hot glue inside. It will mechanically fix the soldered joint. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo  |
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30th May 2017 6:16pm |
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