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TechnoTurkey



Member Since: 25 Jul 2016
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 88

2005 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Zambezi Silver
Connectors for spots/work lights
Hi all,

My 110 has spot lights and a work light mounted on the roofrack, but they are hard wired so it's not a simple job to remove the roof rack.

If I want to add connectors into the wiring so they can easily be disconnected, which connectors would be best?

Cheers Very Happy
Post #570637 13th Oct 2016 4:01pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16879

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Econoseal or Superseal would do nicely. There are however many alternatives.
Post #570672 13th Oct 2016 7:17pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19578

United Kingdom 
^^^^ As above, although Econoseal are standard on a Puma I think I prefer Superseals.
They are just nicer in my opinion, especially to remove.

What load would the lights be? Are they LED or Incandescent? Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #570678 13th Oct 2016 7:40pm
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TechnoTurkey



Member Since: 25 Jul 2016
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 88

2005 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Zambezi Silver
I would be an LED worklamp at the back and a couple of halogen spots on the front.

I'm contemplating removing the work lamp and replacing it with a 12" LED light bar above the rear washer. The spots on the rack are a bit past their best so they are also probably going to be replaced with a couple of LED spots. My roo's on the A bar do most of the hard work anyway!
Post #570798 14th Oct 2016 11:23am
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6482

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Tyco/AMP Superseal. Try and get genuine ones, there are a lot of copies on eBay now Sad  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #570804 14th Oct 2016 11:38am
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dantastic



Member Since: 04 May 2010
Location: London
Posts: 367

United Kingdom 
What would you use for a 42" light bar? Those econoseal/superseal connectors don't look like they can take that high amp.
Post #571988 19th Oct 2016 8:55am
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6482

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
What's the current?  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #571997 19th Oct 2016 9:26am
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2200

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
Econoseal are rated at 10amp continuous and Superseal at 8amp.

That should allow 120W or 96W respectively. 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale
Post #572002 19th Oct 2016 9:38am
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Cold_n_Wet



Member Since: 15 Oct 2012
Location: Bergen
Posts: 244

Norway 
Lazer supply Deutch on the big bars and superseal.

On higher current installation I use delphi connectors.

No problems on LF 170's.

Glen "Rafiki" 2007 110 STW - Rolling rebuild.
Post #572038 19th Oct 2016 2:52pm
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dantastic



Member Since: 04 May 2010
Location: London
Posts: 367

United Kingdom 
The light bar is 240W. I'd like a bit of safety margin as well so let's say 30A.
Post #572059 19th Oct 2016 3:59pm
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shanecl



Member Since: 20 Mar 2013
Location: Louth
Posts: 458

Ireland 1989 Defender 90 V8 Petrol CSW Auto Firenze Red
just bought 10 of the TE AMPSEAL plugs for sounds like the same spots off Radionics today 30 euro all in
Post #572060 19th Oct 2016 4:08pm
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2200

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
I think 30A is a bit over the top, 240W draws 20A at 12v, but with the engine running you drop down to 16.5A (assuming 14.4V). Personally I would be quite happy with a contact rated at 20A continuous as you would be unlikely to have it on without engine running.

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale
Post #572064 19th Oct 2016 4:43pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19578

United Kingdom 
If it's high current I'd use Pre insulted spade terminals and tape it up with a Quality electrical tape.

There is no specific need for removability to a great extent as you won't be removing it on and off often.
And of course it'll be fused too. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #572081 19th Oct 2016 5:42pm
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2200

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
Personally I steer away from pre insulated terminals wherever possible. The crimping method is very crude and have seen so many pull off the wire before the terminal disconnects. Have also seen pre insulated spades melted due to resistance from water ingress and corrosion. Any connector on the outside of a vehicle should use sealed connector housings. If you don't have to correct crimper then there is the possibility to use tinned terminals, crimp crudely with needle nose pliers and then solder.

Don't get me started on scotch locks Rolling with laughter

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale
Post #572158 19th Oct 2016 9:42pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19578

United Kingdom 
Normally I'd agree, but they've suited me for over 6 trouble free years.
Lower current I'd use Superseals or Econoseals though.

But in all honesty, that is how my spots have been wired on the front exposed and never had a single issue at all.

Thumbs Up

Pity there isn't a higher capacity version of connectors like the above, but most seem Tom not be waterproof which is their downfall! Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #572165 19th Oct 2016 9:56pm
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