 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Gear change, First to Second 'nick' |
 
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2664   
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agentmulder
the spacers are a light metal alloy... I had a very slow, notchy change 1-2 and 2-3 when cold. When I did the write-up, obviously I lubed everything, and soaked it all in ACF50 as well. My experience would be that the mod is work doing for the cost and complexity of the project... And yes you need to remove the difflock mechanism...but it's pretty easy and gives you chance to lube everything, and add dynamat in the process... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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3rd May 2016 8:46am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16985 
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Has anyone tried double-declutching the change from 1 to 2 so see if that helps? If it does, the problem is with the synchro.
It is interesting to me to see this since the R380 in my TD5 Disco 2 is exactly like this, hateful when cold. The change from 1 to 2 when cold has to be done very quickly, but once warm cannot be done very quickly - it is back to the usual leisurely change, or DDC up. On the whole the MT82 in my Puma is vastly superior to the R380 with a faster, smoother change, and much nicer to drive. There are so many build quality issues with the Puma and its components, it rather defies belief. Why should gearboxes assembled by modern means in the same factory vary so much? Why, for that matter, should some vehicles' output adaptor shaft couplings last hundreds of thousands of miles and others not make it to ten thousand. It simply doesn't make sense!  |
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3rd May 2016 9:04am |
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| YOLO110 Member Since: 14 Feb 2015 Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK Posts: 1633 
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Yes, I have tried double de-clutching... no difference.
For me, the 'nick' is very variable. Today it was not too bad... however yesterday there quite a loud 'crunch' when I changed from 1-2. I do not rush the change BTW... very slow. As previously mentioned, my 2014 110 also had the same issue... but my Heritage did not! In fact it was probably smoother and quicker than my trusty BMW 118d! I seems to me it's just a 'build' issue... random with some worse than others. With respect to trying Motul 300 gearbox oil as a solution, does anyone know if this oil meets or exceeds the factory specification oil? IF it does, would changing to this oil void a warrantee claim in the event of a gearbox issue? Perhaps a question for Ryan?..  YOLO... You Only Live Once... |
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3rd May 2016 1:31pm |
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| mick Member Since: 08 Feb 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 2109  
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It's a Defender just get used to it worst gearbox ever
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3rd May 2016 9:25pm |
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| Nevillerover Member Since: 14 Feb 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 224 
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I've used the wiggling in neutral on a few Landies and it works but I think it's probably just that it slows your change speed but because you are doing something, time passes more quickly than if you just let it rest in neutral.
What I have found with the Puma box is that although you can change using just one finger or maybe two, gripping the knob firmly with a full grip makes the change so much better. they don't like light handed, grip it like a man! |
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3rd May 2016 10:14pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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It's a truck not a coffin dodgers Eurobox with a gearbox the size of a purse so needs to be driven accordingly. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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3rd May 2016 11:05pm |
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| Erik256 Member Since: 05 Mar 2013 Location: Tallinn Posts: 22  
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I also suffer from the occasional "crunch" when going in to 2-nd. I have installed the shims, tried Motul 3000 and other additives that users have recomended on this forum, but nothing has helped. I understood that there were changes to the synchros from VIN (V)7A743840 onward and as my car is one of the earliest, I asumed that this was the probleem. But I see that vehicles from varous production dates suffer from the probleem so it cant be that.
Slow gearchange helps, but in my case the change from 1st to 2nd then takes so long that I loose momentum. So mostly I start with 2nd. |
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4th May 2016 9:21am |
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| LoveTheMud Member Since: 19 Feb 2015 Location: Weybridge Surrey & Pontefract West Yorkshire Posts: 411 
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Mine is pretty bad - 64 plate with ~12k on.
I find I have to blip the accelerator - difficult in a slow responding diesels - in order to change down, Changing up, i push the clutch down as hard as possible, but done gently, and change into neutral, as I cant snatch the gears. I know (or believe) the low box has no impact on this, however I like to make sure its right over. For me the clutch feels like there is another half inch of travel hiding away up there... |
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4th May 2016 10:42am |
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| YOLO110 Member Since: 14 Feb 2015 Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK Posts: 1633
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Yes I know... it's a truck! And I love it! I am ok with this 'foyble'. But it's just annoying that I KNOW not all Puma Defender gearboxes are like this... I would MUCH prefer to have one that did not 'nick' into 2nd... Simply pit, it is the gears 'grating' into position... and that will of course mean gear wear... So long term, who knows...? My 'determined' side says, take it back to the dealer and ask them to fix. My 'experienced' side says, just accept it and carry on! YOLO... You Only Live Once... |
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4th May 2016 11:07am |
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| gazman Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 652 
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I noticed mine was doing it, and just like my motorbike if I change gear at a sweet spot in the rpm I don't get it.
If I change at low rpm I get it, so when cold I take my time changing gear or start in 2nd if I can. When warm I rev the engine a little harder and it just slips in. 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car) 2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r |
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4th May 2016 7:15pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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Gear stick waggle from 1 towards 5-6 then into 2 is still 'working'.
So much less 'clank' I now perceive the issue to be between 2-3. Gonna waggle there too Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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4th May 2016 9:02pm |
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| Shax Member Since: 05 Oct 2010 Location: London Posts: 391 
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Try PET-G filament... Needs much more heat to extrude, and is way more dimensionally stable than PLA or ABS.. If you are feeling flush, you could always try the carbon fibre reinforced PET-G.. I run my M150 i3 printer at 250C for the extruder and 70C for the bed.. ... ,-------, .. I [__][_]|__ .. I __ |"_|"__| .. "(o)====(o)" ^^_-^-_^-^_^^^^^--^^^^ PAUL G7ALW 14.200 USB 26FB458 / 27.275 SSB |
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10th May 2016 7:37pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Good tips, but I ordered the parts already, very cheap!
I need to print some mounts for some tools in the back, will use PLA (with low density fill) to test them for size/fit. But that stuff sounds good for the final products  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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10th May 2016 9:33pm |
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| ter11 Member Since: 28 Oct 2015 Location: Zurich Posts: 26  
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Hi all
I also suffer from the nick 1st to 2nd (and 2nd to 3rd, but much less on that one). The nick only happens when changing gears up, not when shifting down. My 90 is from 2007 and has 50k km on the odo. Occasionally I read that the nick became less after people had their clutch replaced. My cluch has quite some play and I hear the "klack" when I stop the engine in neutral without pressing the clutch. But no clutch rattle otherwise. Anyone with a gear-change nick can confirm an improvement after clutch renewal? Or confirm the opposite? BR Ter |
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11th May 2016 8:24am |
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