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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
I feel it in the stick also - a slight but hard resistance, then 'croink' in to 2nd.

Sometimes, no matter how slowly I'm changing it'll happen - others, taking it easy helps.

You chaps feeling it too?
Post #528214 1st May 2016 4:02am
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YOLO110



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK
Posts: 1633

Australia 
agentmulder wrote:

Interesting no one who has read this thread has posted about returning it under warranty, I'd love to know what it is/how easy a fix...


I did go to my dealer... got the TADTS reply!

Well, I know they actually don't... but I have been down a smilier road before and the replacement gearbox was worse than the original!

Sometimes, better just to accept it and carry on... Whistle YOLO... You Only Live Once...
Post #528215 1st May 2016 4:04am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Yeah I got that from the mechanic, but I did note that he was less versed in the puma than all the other engines/transmissions he'd worked on over the decades.

I just wonder what it will turn in to eventually....

Time will tell. Bigger fish to fry in the meantime, like why is the dash clock now losing time since I replaced the bulb?

I'd rather have a clock I cant see than one slow by 20mins ! Neutral
Post #528216 1st May 2016 4:09am
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YOLO110



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK
Posts: 1633

Australia 
... but time always passes more slowly in NZ mate! Thumbs Up YOLO... You Only Live Once...
Post #528219 1st May 2016 4:27am
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williamthedog



Member Since: 29 Dec 2012
Location: south wales
Posts: 3441

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Tamar Blue
Mines been like it from new as well, just got used to it now Rolling Eyes
Post #528233 1st May 2016 7:39am
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Mac22



Member Since: 22 Nov 2013
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 675

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 DCPU Santorini Black
I've had it back under warranty three times now.
Initially had a long test drive with a techie and he shook his head from start to finish. It took that long to get it into second from the lights he missed first out for the duration... Mr. Green
That was a new clutch and numerous parts of running gear all under 8K miles.
The "suit" tried to blame the BAS remap for stressing the components too much.....
The remap was done from the factory ordered by the hierarchy at Listers...(thats another story) Whistle but is was a courtesy car for a few weeks before I ended up with it, so it was prolly leathered from new.

Just had my second service and still issues with the clutch, they eventually changed the oil which has improved it some..

During the service there was an oil pump recall carried out, I won't even go into the palaver over LR charging me over the oil service even though it was done on the recall......I ended up only paying for new oil as during the recall LR make them catch the oil and reuse...Unbelievable.
Post #528266 1st May 2016 10:16am
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Roy5695



Member Since: 15 Feb 2014
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 1123

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Indus Silver
My 110 had some harder bushes put in under the gear stick mounting points which cured mine, there is a how too on the forum I believe and it doesn't take all that long to do although i had mine done under warranty...
Post #528272 1st May 2016 10:29am
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Birdy



Member Since: 07 Oct 2011
Location: Côte d'Azur
Posts: 856

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
"got the TADTS reply"

Some don't, some (most?) do, some get better, some (few?) get worse.

But after a few months - and factory/dealer mod 308-00 (install gear lever spacer bushes like Roy) which made absolutely no difference at all - mine got so bad that on pulling away from lights, by the time I could get into second gear the truck had slowed down to nothing, very pleasing to vehicles behind! And at times before the gearbox warmed up I couldn't even engage first or reverse gears.

Gearbox out, stripped, reassembled, luckily under warranty and, touch wood, now back to the normal TADTS slow and careful first to second shift.

Peter

Edited to add: even today, if conditions allow, i.e. unladen, level road or downward slope, I'll change directly from first to third and try to avoid second gear
Post #528277 1st May 2016 11:07am
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shipbadger



Member Since: 10 Jan 2016
Location: Royal Forest of Dean
Posts: 19

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HCPU Galway Green
S'funny, just started reading this thread and all of a sudden a light came on in my brain! When I started my motoring career a well known trick for BMC cars was to change from first to neutral, waggle the gear lever a bit and then select second gear. There was of course no syncro on first in those days and the second gear cones wore out very quickly. After a bit it became automatic. A couple of weeks ago I realised I was doing it in my Landy, must have noticed a slight baulking and automatically the old habit had kicked in. Strange how things come round again.

Tony Comber
Post #528301 1st May 2016 1:25pm
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tuesdayfox



Member Since: 23 Jun 2013
Location: Sydney,OZ
Posts: 129

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Zambezi Silver
mine initially has the same problem, but I just push the gear-nob ASSERTIVELY

At 40k kms I change the gearbox oil with motul 300 and now quite smooth from 1st to 2nd.
it was a noticeable difference to me.

I am sure other brands of oil can do the same.
Post #528700 3rd May 2016 2:48am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Interesting...

Gearbox oil change changed nought for me (did it myself with the correct stuff).

I've since tried wiggling the lever to the right (5-6 direction) before slipping to second - 'shipbadger' style Wink - too early to be conclusive, but first impressions are that it's much smoother and occasionally perfect. Thumbs Up
Post #528701 3rd May 2016 4:12am
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Pickles



Member Since: 26 May 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3755

Australia 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Keswick Green
Don't think any gear changing "method" will make any difference,...it's obviously something to do with the design & working of the syncro going into 2nd gear.
Pickles.
Post #528702 3rd May 2016 4:14am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Way I see it is that if a design fault causes something different to happen - e.g. clunk between 1st and 2nd - then it's plausible that a user doing something different may cause the clunk to not happen.

While it's never guaranteed that these 'two wrongs make a right' situations work out - and correlation is not causation etc. etc. - but it's still possible.

I'm happy for the sake of it to give it a try, hardly any effort.

Bow down Sheep

So far it's working.

I use colloidal silver also.

Laughing
Post #528703 3rd May 2016 4:22am
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2664

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Have you read this:

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic29132.html

Cheers

Edit Embarassed should not apply to you---yours is too new... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #528710 3rd May 2016 7:27am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Interesting, mine is in range...

Those spacers, anyone got the dimensions? What material were they made of?

So you cant get the spacers in without loosening the lower right bolt under the difflock? Neutral Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #528712 3rd May 2016 8:03am
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