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RRUK
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Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2014

United Kingdom 
my 2.4 starts blowing warm air after 2 miles driving, and the temp gauge moves up to half ways after 8-10 miles.

The heater is off the scale hot! 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol
Post #494400 20th Jan 2016 1:56pm
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
Your door locking issue is *probably* just a well known feature of the 10AS alarm unit.
They like locking you out. If you ever need to leave the engine running put a window down.

Thankfully mine doesn't have central locking and the farm one has only ever locked me out in the yard. It seems to do it for a lot of people at the worst moments. There are people on here that have had to smash windows to get in. But if you've got the rear quarter windows, they just pop out very easily with no damage, you climb in through the rear door and off you go.

My 2.4's heater works fine Laughing although not all of my Defender is currently in my good books Rolling Eyes
Post #494418 20th Jan 2016 2:22pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2548

Scotland 
If you're sitting idling then the engine will cool down, especially with the heater on and on a cold day. There's not enough heat being generated by the very small amount of fuel being burned and so the heater (along with the natural heat soak off the block into the cold air) is able to take more heat out than is being put in. Hence the engine cools down.

On my (albeit 200Tdi - but the same principles apply) Defender I often find myself coming down a long hill in the forest where I might be doing 20mph for 4-5 miles but just on the overrun (i.e. throttle at neutral position so injection pump cuts off fuel supply). In the winter when I have the heater on the engine temperature drops dramatically during this period. As soon as I get to level ground or an incline where I have to accelerate again it's then back up to temperature fairly quickly.

As for your journey, taking 25 mins to do 8 miles you must be going reasonably slowly. You will need to work the engine on cold mornings for it to heat up, a downhill journey will not put much strain on the engine and it simply won't heat up. Any time you're on the overrun going downhill you are not injecting any fuel so the engine will be cooling down.

Take it on an 8 mile journey with some hills (or sections at a decent speed - 60mph or thereabouts) in it and see if it warms up any faster.
Post #494449 20th Jan 2016 4:14pm
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jb71



Member Since: 11 Jul 2015
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 103

United Kingdom 
Orangesofa wrote:
My doors need a bit of a slam but I have put it down to air pressure. If I crack a window open an inch and try it again and it shuts neatly and easily first time. i might have a look at the alignment just in case I am missing a trick.


This is what I do on my new 90, helps greatly. My old 1959 beetle is exactly the same, open the quarter window though and it closes first time every time!
Post #494766 21st Jan 2016 1:52pm
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thor44



Member Since: 18 Sep 2015
Location: Ahrntal, Südtirol
Posts: 128

2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver
I've got a 90 2.2 and during the cold days last week (-15°C) I was able to get the temperature only half way up to the middle on my 10 km drive to work (approx. 20 min). Usually, if it is only around 0° I'm not having too many issues getting the gauge to the horizontal position.

It really depends on how hard the engine has to work until it gets warm, but on the inside I'm getting first signs of warm air after 3-4 km. On the other hand and to my suprise it stays fairly warm for quite an amount of time after turning the engine off. I would even say that one hour after turning it off with a warm motor the indicator is still halfway up to the middle.

Something which would definitely help getting the engine temperature up would be a radiator cover.
Post #496629 26th Jan 2016 3:29pm
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