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chris38



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Lancaster
Posts: 34

United Kingdom 
Stranded, help please.
Drove up to Gatehouse of Fleet a couple of days ago to stay in a cottage. When I came to start the Landy again it wouldn't crank.
Found the rearmost 60amp fuse in the engine bay had blown. Replacement blew straight away.
Tried to get recovery who can't seem to find the problem. (Didn't look very hard to be fair)
Am trying to get an auto leccy to have a look tomorrow. But otherwise I'm stranded and can't get home.
Can't find any obvious bad earths or damaged wires.
I did get a whiff of electrical burning just before I stopped the engine.
Anyone got any ideas what could be the problem. There's a beer or three in it for you.
Many thanks
Chris Cheers
Chris
300tdi Defender 90
Post #490642 10th Jan 2016 5:41pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Do you get a click click on start up ie starter relay working but started motor windings shot?

Good luck.
Post #490645 10th Jan 2016 5:47pm
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g-mack



Member Since: 07 Jan 2014
Location: northumberland
Posts: 1967

United Kingdom 
is the rearmost 60amp fuse second from bulkhead ? i.e. there is a 30 amp fuse closest then 2 60amp a 20 and a 60??
if so then that 60a fuse is for the ignition switch and starter relay!!
possibly relay failure or ignition switch failure My 109 thread

my youtube channel
Post #490646 10th Jan 2016 5:54pm
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chris38



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Lancaster
Posts: 34

United Kingdom 
Caterham wrote:
Do you get a click click on start up ie starter relay working but started motor windings shot?

Good luck.


Nope nothing at all, Cheers
Chris
300tdi Defender 90
Post #490650 10th Jan 2016 6:00pm
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chris38



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Lancaster
Posts: 34

United Kingdom 
g-mack wrote:
is the rearmost 60amp fuse second from bulkhead ? i.e. there is a 30 amp fuse closest then 2 60amp a 20 and a 60??
if so then that 60a fuse is for the ignition switch and starter relay!!
possibly relay failure or ignition switch failure


Yep it's that fuse, can you think of any reason why it would blow again straight away. Key wasn't in ignition when it blew. Cheers
Chris
300tdi Defender 90
Post #490651 10th Jan 2016 6:02pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Aha. Hopefully gmack above has the answer...shot relay.

Should be an easy fix if that's what it is.

Good luck. Thumbs Up


Short in the relay?
Post #490652 10th Jan 2016 6:03pm
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g-mack



Member Since: 07 Jan 2014
Location: northumberland
Posts: 1967

United Kingdom 
also check for any chafed wires around bell housing as i think they can rub there! My 109 thread

my youtube channel
Post #490653 10th Jan 2016 6:06pm
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chris38



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Lancaster
Posts: 34

United Kingdom 
Thanks for your replies guys.
So if the relay has gone would that fit the symptoms
Slight burning smell before switch off.
Ignition lights switch on with key but on final turn nothing happens.
Fuse blows immediately when everything is switched off.
No lights ie sidelights and headlights work. Cheers
Chris
300tdi Defender 90
Post #490656 10th Jan 2016 6:11pm
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g-mack



Member Since: 07 Jan 2014
Location: northumberland
Posts: 1967

United Kingdom 
if you have a few spare 60 a fuses, you could pull the relay out, put a new fuse in, if it blows its not the relay!
edit, i think lol My 109 thread

my youtube channel
Post #490657 10th Jan 2016 6:17pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1188

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Here I was getting ready to come out and give you a hand, then realised that Gatehouse of Fleet is not Fleet in Surrey...

Do the earlier positions on the ignition switch work? If you've got a radio can you turn that on? Another item that you could test is if the brake lights come on (I think they go out when the ignition is off).

If you don't have a multi-meter you could do this with a bulb (e.g. interior one or side-light) and a bit of scrap wire.

If you can get to the back of the starter switch the crank wire should be red/white - see whether anything's coming off that. Also goes to the starter relay so you can check there.

If I remember correctly with a bit of brute force and a flat screwdriver you can open up the relays - might be worth pulling it apart and see whether it's damaged. Sometimes they just corrode up and a bit of tidying up the contacts with sandpaper / a knife can work wonders (I'm referring to internal contacts).

If it's a 300Tdi can you bump start it? You might also be able to get access to the back of the starter with a large screwdriver and once the key's in the right position then short the back of the terminals with aforementioned screwdriver. Used to do that fairly regularly on my Series III Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #490658 10th Jan 2016 6:20pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554


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three main drawing for 300 tdi good luck


Last edited by dorsetsmith on 10th Jan 2016 6:42pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #490659 10th Jan 2016 6:20pm
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chris38



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Lancaster
Posts: 34

United Kingdom 
Good thinking barman.
Ran out of spare fuses after the first one doh.
Nowhere to get any here on a Sunday.
Thanks very much everyone think I'll go to the pub and think about it for a while. Cheers
Chris
300tdi Defender 90
Post #490662 10th Jan 2016 6:22pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19578

United Kingdom 
It may be the starter cable between the relay and starter.
It may be shorting due to some kind of damage and this blowing the fuse.
It won't blow until you give it power by going to start it, it'll just blow over again with not starting intention at all just a fuse blow.

I'd give it a contiuity check on the live feed and a check between the live feed on there to chassis ground. (Make sure battery is disconnected and everything off first)
If there is any reading between the starter live from relay to earth then there is a short.

Diagram should help above no end.
Post #490666 10th Jan 2016 6:29pm
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g-mack



Member Since: 07 Jan 2014
Location: northumberland
Posts: 1967

United Kingdom 
^^Agreed, if it is blowing as soon as you replace it, rather than when you turn key to pos 3 its likely to be a cable! My 109 thread

my youtube channel
Post #490675 10th Jan 2016 6:42pm
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Mash



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Guernsey
Posts: 1674

Guernsey 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
Check the main power cable running out of the battery box to the starter if this cable is chaffed/loose it could be arcing. 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html
110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html
52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html
D3 Hse - Fiona
Capri 2l S - Anna

Think I might have a problem............
Post #490687 10th Jan 2016 7:08pm
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