 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Slick shift tdci? |
 
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| Wild Card 90 Member Since: 03 Dec 2014 Location: Gerlingen Posts: 1060   
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Liam, sorry to read you are still plagued by the dreaded rattle! It should be easy enough to locate the cause. I cannot imagine that the Bowler lever is at fault. I donīt have one but from appearance it is basically a couple of (very smart) aluminium sections bolted onto the side of the original LR lever base. It may be prone to amplifying a noise that is already present.
Unclip the lever and check that the weights havenīt come loose, if you havenīt already removed them. Then look at the slickshift mechanism. Are the four allen bolts holding the blue collar down pulled up tight? Donīt use too much force, as the housing they bolt into is an aluminium casting. Unlikely that this is the problem but worth checking. The amount of grease used during installation here, can cause the collar to lock-up before it is fully seated. Check also the grub screw fixing the two halves of the slickshift lever. Finally, it comes down to how well the LR lever sits on top of the slickshift. As i have previously described, a couple of winds of insulation tape should be enough to prevent any movement. Since initially fitting my slickshift, and using the tape winds to solve the rattle problem, I havenīt had to do anything further on mine. It remains one of the best modifications I have done. It just suits the character of the vehicle so well. 1998 Tdi 90 SW, 2008 Td4 90 SW, 2012 2.2 90 SW, 2" raised Trailmaster/Terrafirma Heavy Track Raids, 255 MTīs, Recaro CSīs, anorak, wellingtons Last edited by Wild Card 90 on 1st Apr 2017 8:57am. Edited 2 times in total |
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1st Apr 2017 8:33am |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2591  
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Personally, as someone who also didn't think there was anything wrong with the shift action of my Puma, and only bought the Slickshift because the ZAR was finally at a good rate vs the GBP, I can definitely say YES! sometimes you don't even know how bad something is until you replace it with a better version  --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged 
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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1st Apr 2017 8:44am |
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| Morepower Member Since: 08 Jan 2013 Location: Fife, Scotland Posts: 630 
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wish i could enjoy mine; still rattles like mad with the bowler gearsticks Crying or Very sad
Hi, Sounds like you need to strip it down and either add tape or extra grease... I have the same kit with the Bowler Gear stick and have no issues??? Regards Tim It doesn't matter how bad it is, It can always get worse... 2013 Bowler 110 (Sold) 2016 Bowler 90 Rally Spec (Sold) |
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1st Apr 2017 8:15pm |
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| tuesdayfox Member Since: 23 Jun 2013 Location: Sydney,OZ Posts: 129 
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So many ricers
In my opinion, defenders are dangerous if driven in high speed What's the point of quick gear shift anyway, it's a diesel engine..... High torque and power band is so wide.... Okay let's say if this improves gear shift; Since it doesn't modify the gearbox itself, I reckon the perceived benefits are likely the results of a better fit/material can someone simply make a steel version ofthe OEM gear stick? I prefer long and secure gear shift Cheers |
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22nd Sep 2017 6:27am |
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| tookaphotoof Member Since: 18 Mar 2013 Location: dordrecht Posts: 1279  
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High torque and a wide powerband. Seriously?
I'm guessing you haven't driven modern cars? 😄 |
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22nd Sep 2017 7:40am |
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| tuesdayfox Member Since: 23 Jun 2013 Location: Sydney,OZ Posts: 129
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No I have been driving defenders
Off-road low range 2nd, do you shift often? On road. You are a brave man if you drive the defender fast and keep downshifting to overtake others |
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22nd Sep 2017 8:26am |
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| tuesdayfox Member Since: 23 Jun 2013 Location: Sydney,OZ Posts: 129
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No offense but if you enjoying driving on twisted roads, try a range rover
Or discovery 5 More blink too |
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22nd Sep 2017 8:29am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5765  
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^^^ Sometimes you can't choose. I drive on pretty much the twistest roads you can imagine, being here in the Alps, but love (and want to keep) my Defender as my daily driver. Whilst it does have torque, some of the hairpins I tackle (even on the not super-twisty drive to/from work) are at least 5% gradient and max 30kmh, possibly steeper than that on the inside. When Mrs Grenadier and I go for walks, getting to the high altitude carparks entails roads of 10, 15 even 20%. The long throw, whilst you're fighting gravity, is not ideal. Here's the last part of my route home, for which the 2.4's torque simply isn't enough:
https://www.google.fr/maps/dir/45.8967127,...064279!3e0 So, whilst I appreciate it's not a Caterham, I'd nevertheless do what I can to give it the best road-manners possible, no need to suffer unneccesarily. However, I am also sure that once I have remapped the engine, it'll make changing up and down less frequent, and of course better handling with Bilsteins, springs, ARBs etc will also all help. But in the same vein, I shall still add the slick-shift when I play with the engine.  Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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22nd Sep 2017 10:21am |
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| tuesdayfox Member Since: 23 Jun 2013 Location: Sydney,OZ Posts: 129
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Thanks for sharing.
I am curious and seriously considering at the very least, try one if possible But the short shifter will never improve the gear shift quality It simply shortens the gear shift lever Considering the defender's clutch pedal travel is so long....Can you achieve a swift gear change? Like do you release the clutch pedal quicker? Or you change gear without pressing the clutch pedal all the way down? P.s. I have bas 170 remap. It's awesome |
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22nd Sep 2017 11:14am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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Yes but shortening a lever does change things...
More force required from you over a shorter distance for the same movement through the box. At the same time less potential for flex (wasted energy) - this assumes the same material however, which as I understand the slickshift isn't. My guess is that there are two main factors working for it: 1. People 'feeling' improvement to justify the $$ spent,. A rather pessimistic but IMO regrettably accurate view for many cases. 2. For whatever reasons it manages to make it 'feel' better regardless of the consideration outlined above.
Not yet an owner myself. (excuse all the edits, just shortening for clarity) Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... Last edited by agentmulder on 22nd Sep 2017 5:48pm. Edited 3 times in total |
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22nd Sep 2017 3:20pm |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5765
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Agentmulder and Tuesdayfox, thought you antipodeans were supposed to be tough? I can handle the extra force required in the throw and the clutch as I have big muscles. Ahem.
Actually, my clutch is really light compared with some Defenders. I was thinking about this on the way home and took one of the steeper routes which has a very cheeky hairpin. It's definitely the length of throw that slows the engagement of gear down, not the clutch. If it had a shorter throw, I think not only would it be quicker to engage but also the clutch would be depressed for less time so it would be easier to feather and engage the gear. At the moment, with the time the clutch is depressed and the gear is disengaged, it's never a smooth engagement on drive and at the least clunks if not also jerks a bit. I can be as delicate as I like and try and blend clutch and gear as seemlessly as possible but that extra second's delay does make a difference. Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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22nd Sep 2017 5:42pm |
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| deaallen Member Since: 15 Feb 2016 Location: Basingstoke Posts: 264  
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I bought one of these kits at Peterborough last weekend and I've gotta say I'm not a fan
Firstly it didn't come with any fitting instructions but an URL to a fitting video - This was unbearably annoying, trying to skip certain parts of the video on my phone, while my hands were covered in grease  - I would have much preferred a little printed page.... but I suppose some people get on with technology better than i do.
My main disappointment with the product though is that I didn't realize, nor was it advertised, that this "upgrade"/mod increases the pressure needed to actually change gear. Its not so bad with 1-6th but its soo difficult to put into reverse now that I'm sure my girlfriend/sister/mother wouldn't be able to do it. At the show where I bought the kit they had some stand alone gear boxes on show with the slick shifts fitted to try out - much easier than how mine has turned out
Perhaps theres something wrong with my gear box though and the slick shift has just made it more obvious? If it didn't make changing gears so heavy then its a nice upgrade but for me I regret buying and fitting the kit, and to top it off I can't swap it back out now as my gear stick is stuck on the slick shift shaft and refuses to budge. |
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24th Sep 2017 8:33am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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 Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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24th Sep 2017 10:22am |
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| tuesdayfox Member Since: 23 Jun 2013 Location: Sydney,OZ Posts: 129
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My gearbox was pretty bad, very mushy until I changed the clutch. Then it became crispy and I can sure if I go into gear... Mine is a my13 so my guessstamation is LR stuffed something during assembly Anyway I bought a slickshift last weekend....Now patiently waiting for it I will put on a momo shift knob as well (already using momo steering wheel will go full ricer and might just remove some checker plates that interfere defenders arodynamics |
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3rd Oct 2017 10:33pm |
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