 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Ashcroft Transmissions Gearbox Output Shaft Kit |
 
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| carrotbay Member Since: 18 Aug 2013 Location: Northants, UK Posts: 695   
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When replacing the shaft and 'cup' that it goes into, what do you use to lock the 'cup' when undoing the middle nut? The recommended LR tool is not freely available and is £60+
 2008 Defender 110 XS SW - M57N2 / 6HP28X |
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1st Jun 2015 6:46pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1728  
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From the Ashcroft website:
A tip for removing the old collar in situ with the rear casing still fitted is to weld 2 M8 nuts to the 2 cut outs then either use a slide hammer or a 2 legged puller. Fit the LR030054 and TUD500020 as normal, put a light smear of grease on the O rings and some loctite on the female thread in the ali collar before fitting, Going to try at the weekend so will let you know....[/b] |
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1st Jun 2015 7:28pm |
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| carrotbay Member Since: 18 Aug 2013 Location: Northants, UK Posts: 695
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That's ok for pulling it off, but how about locking it to undo the centre bolt? 2008 Defender 110 XS SW - M57N2 / 6HP28X
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1st Jun 2015 8:08pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127 
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I always whizzed them out with an impact gun, they do come out with not much effort! 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"
Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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1st Jun 2015 8:23pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1728
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I'm going to put an air wrench on the one end & get my mate Garry to hold the input shaft - its OK though I'll give him a pair of gloves............
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1st Jun 2015 8:23pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1728
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Joking apart, Ian, how do you pull the adapter off?
Cheers Keith |
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1st Jun 2015 8:26pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127
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Some I've taken off with a little Sykes hydraulic puller, never had to "fight" one off.
The one I done a few weeks ago simply pulled out! 80" 80" 86" 88" 90" Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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1st Jun 2015 9:04pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1728
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Thanks Ian,
until I see the beast in the flesh, its difficult to know what will do what so to speak. I've got a decent puller and several cr*p ones that I can canabalise if required Cheers Keith |
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1st Jun 2015 10:14pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16899 
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Possibly a more interesting question is how you hold it when torquing the new one in place. I bought the tool. Not cheap, but makes it easy. |
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2nd Jun 2015 12:34am |
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| Mjibex Member Since: 21 Mar 2013 Location: Reading Posts: 283 
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I must say the Ashcroft kit looks like a very well thought out and executed bit of kit.
But I keep thinking, without going down this route :- can't the drain/inspection hole in the casing be taped to take a drain plug, another hole be drilled and taped for a fill point (be it oil or grease). It must be a good idea to fill the drain hole, whichever route is chosen; surely when wading any grease or oil will be contained, + grinding can occur in an enclosed/difficult to inspect area. Has any 1 got pictures of the housing or tried this? Mark. |
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2nd Jun 2015 12:19pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16899
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Plenty of pictures in other threads on this subject.
There isn't as standard a pluggable drain hole in the extension housing, it is simply a small recess in the face that bolts against the transfer box. When the parts are assembled the result is an oblong slot along the join line. It is a very small slot and in the bottom of the joint, and I have never seen an example where there has been mud/detritus ingress. If you were to do as you suggest, you'd have to plug the slot, drill drain and filler holes in the housing, remove the standard seal and retainer from the splined coupling, and either fill with a suitable oil until the shaft is partly submerged, or make and fit an oil slinger to the shaft and fill with less oil. The shaft runs throught the housing above the centreline so the oil volume will be perhaps surprising - it would I image take at least a litre, maybe 2. Since it isn't designed to be oil-tight I think it is likely that there may be leakage issues, and you'd also have to engineer a raised breather for the now-sealed housing. This scheme is certainly feasibly, but is quite a lot of work. Given that (a) properly greased joints assembled correctly don't seem to have a longevity issue anyway, (b) the Aschroft engineered solution is available off the shelf, and (c) the two-grease-nipple solution is also known to work and is very low cost, the effort converting to a fully filled housing seems disporportionate to me. It would however be interesting if someone opted to try it and carry out a long term test. |
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2nd Jun 2015 2:19pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7703 
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mine at 52k miles. incorectly fitted at assembly too by the looks of it.
this is as it looked when the cover had come off, not even seated correctly
spline wear is only in top section of female and upto locking ring on male part.
Cheers
James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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12th Jul 2015 1:33pm |
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| Td5 Member Since: 29 Jun 2015 Location: Finland Posts: 53  
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Just recently bought a '07 90 Puma that has done about 75k miles.
Been wondering why the clutch is so "sharp", it is very difficult to change gears without a "clunk" from drive line. Could this be the reason? Is there a way to determine if these splines are bad or they just one day fail? Should I take the thing apart and install this Ashcroft kit? When I'm there, would you recommend that I do the clutch also? What kind of mileage have you got from clutch? Brgds, Juha '96 300Tdi 90 '07 Puma 90 |
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24th Jul 2015 8:40am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16899
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You need to monitor the clutch for the "death rattle" and replace it when the rattle is obvious*, typically 50k miles or so, though some are now getting higher mileages. There is no way to check the splines without taking the t-box off, which isn't particularly difficult.
The Ashcroft parts look to be an excellent and well-engineered modification, however I don't yet know of anyone who's run a set long enough to assess how well it works (although I am sure it works perfectly). There is plenty of evidence that if standard parts are lubricated thoroughly on assembly they will last indefinitely. * Check for the death rattle by comparing the noise you get stopping the engine with the clutch out (pedal pressed) with the noise stopping the engine with the clutch in (pedal up) and the gearbox in neutral. If there is a rattle in the case, it will be due to the springs in the clutch plate taking on a permanent set. They will eventually fall out, so replace the clutch without undue delay. |
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24th Jul 2015 9:04am |
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